VapingBad

No, max is 1 A at 5 V (5 W) on the battery side that would be converted to anything between 9.3-12.6V at 5 W that would be 0.54 A - 0.4 A, there would be a conversion loss under 10% so slightly lower in practice.

Thanks John, that makes sense to me anyway (I think) so setting the mod res to 0.01 with a 0.06 coil as measured by the DNA would make the mod take 0.118 ohm as double the temp instead of 0.130 ohm with out the setting, the higher ohm being the warmer vape. So if we felt that at low res the temperature was a bit high then this is where this setting helps the most.

The fw does both 3S & 2S it is just a setting on the Mod tab next to Battery - Capacity

Yep big kanthal suspension spring, I was thinking of twisting some 0.5 mm and having the mod in a stand when I do it. I could even wrap it around some 5 mm Cu tube I have after wrapping that the in PTFE if I had to loose more heat.

So a 50 W air cooled coil would do it?

I am getting a weaker vape with a 0.05 ohm genesis build at 420 F on my Hammond 1590A box, but I am not happy with the coil build as it is 0.3 mm (about 29 AWG IIRC) Ni200 it is a bit stiffer and doesn't sit snug enough with the steel wicks. Putting a build with twisted 34 AWG 0.16 mm 0.1 ohm on it is a great vape at 380F I get more vapour than the other at 420 F, the twisted build is my ADV and I am happy that the 200 with the resistance correction is accurate. A quick test the 0.3 single strand build needs 480 F to get the vapour, just the effect of the wire being a bit too loose on the steel wicks or is it the resistance offset is too high, probably both.

I am sure that is what the setting on the Mod tab - Electrical - Mod Resistance and not battery IR, I'm sure John will correct this if I am wrong. But as I said I am not sure I measured it perfectly or how useful it is.

I just tried Analysis Atomiser with a Velocity clone with 2.5 sq mm solid copper in place of the coil, the closest thing I could rig to a short, but the atty will have a few milliohm. I got 10 milliohm for my 1590A mod with a VariTube with stretched spring using 14 AWG wire and 13 milliohm for the Evolv mod, I suspect that the common earth rather than the 510 is why it is higher. But I don't think the resistance is that high I need a better method like a brass bolt to fit the 510. 27/7/15 fw

the screen change was quite easy actually I wrote a quick guide here it was me being silly when powering it up again, yep "right of passage" alright.

windxrunner glad you got it all sorted you are not the only inpatient one the second DNA30 I did I snapped the screen, I replaced it and didn't think it worked at first as I didn't put the battery in long enough, I must have tried 5 or 6 times not wanting to fry anything IIRC I went over the solder again.

might have to get another board for those 20 25R & 10 VTC4s I have.

John I know it is a bit early to ask, but will you be making a 2S RBP module for this as well as the planned 3S one? I imaging the 3S one could do both assuming it is just a PCB.

It takes half a min or so to change after plugged in depending on the idle time or similar setting, not sure which one.

As it comes off the top end of the voltage it will make no other difference, batteries have a harder time at the bottom end. The setting is on the Mod Tab - Charging Mode

IIRC the board has a hard cut-off at 3 V so that would be the min.

Brief answers to some points, nice mod BTW. It it more accurate than the DNA40. The charging fields display for me when plugged into the PC and stay on the screen until unplugged even if has finished charging. With the switching to temp limiting could it be that you has resistance locked, or you could reduce the value of Ohm Lock range on the Mod tab and see if that works better for you.

Ignore I wrote before th photo was added to the last post. I think is was the amount of reflected light that made the photo unclear, the resolution and focus were good maybe try different angle of a little further away from the light.

I can't tell from the picture, it maybe best to wait for John to respond.

Have a look at this thread /topic/68428-topic/?do=findComment&comment=915408

OK then check you have not dislodged one of the balance resistors and solder not touching any vias.

Check the wiring of you balance plus/leads and if the screen cable is correctly inserted it goes in from the rhs of this picture with the screen facing down.

Yes, but really should work our Watt Hours which are capacity in Ah x nominal voltage so 3.7 V batteries have higher Wh than 3.6 V for the same capacity, the LiPos the DNA200 takes are 11.1 V. But as they are in series and haver higher current rating than 18650 more of the power is usable so a bit better than 3 times.

Just do it on a background thread.

Cut down 5 mm shelf pins work well.

Sounds like you blew the fuse, it is white now?