josh

This may be an old thread but I had to comment for the ridiculous wording... Buying a tablet is not a solution. The solution would be Evolv making software correctly, Microsoft Word or Evernote never said "screw other OS's". I accept it may take time, but you cannot use the word solution for that...

That's how many amps you can charge at... 1 amp is the max supported on dna boards, or 2amp on the vaporshark... Setting that too high can kill your board.

That diagram is very helpful actually. Hopefully just for future people Evolv will come along and say "Yeah VapingBad was correct again!" Thankyou for explaining it

So with that logic... If the punch is on 11 (and 200w) it will ignore the power and go for the Temp-10 degrees... So I'm guessing the mod will just go with the lower of either when it goes to fire?

So lets go with 100w 1s and preheat SOFT and preheat HARD on 400F? If it throws 100w surely it'll always have the same punch?

Thanks for the reply Vapingbad. This is how I imagine it to work and understood it to work. However if setting the punch defines how close to the temperature it gets why do we set a power option aswell? In my head... Power = temperature - raising one raises the other... So how can you set the power and have the punch change the heat temp? If possible I'd love to see two number examples (even if not completely mathematically accurate)

Hello all, If using a temperature-sensing coil you can define the preheat. This makes sense and I understand it's purpose. It is also very easy to understand the time limit... However. if the preheat power is 100w what diference does the punch make? If it's soft does it hit 90w or if it's soft does it take a second to get to 100w? Another question on the matter, if the preheat power is 100w and the power setting is set to 50w will it fire 100w for a second then 50w? Could somebody explain the exact way it works for my understanding? Thanks

Well one of them I could put down to an issue with the build... The second one is using a wood box (with no mounting points just the wooden frame to hold it well) 3 vamo buttons on the original buttons... Overall the mod has 4 connections, 2 to battery and 2 to 510 which all look incredibly well done and even if the 510 ones shorted the board should be okay with that and I know 100% the battery ones are fine, so I would have to be extremely unlucky for this to happen twice?

Currently two broken "custom mods" made by different well known modders... Which one of them is using the stock buttons even! I have also got a friend with a broken Hcigar dna200

I've had 2 - it's a shame Evolv can't admit they've messed up and do something... Seriously though this is shocking

This has happened to me twice! Evolv need to explain why these are all failing and fix it or give us some money for our losses

It could be the fuse... But I've had this a few times now it seems the Evolv boards are rubbish and will just keep breaking... It'll be the nicest mod you'll never use - it will just keep going back... Evolv have cost me over £100 in postage on two mods... + having to wait 4 weeks a time to get a new board

So this is my second DNA200 board which has died... No reason why - one blown fuse one not blown... Neither show on escribe at all or turn on irrespective what I try... I've heard many rumors about boards breaking and as bad as 11 out of 25 from some people have had faults? I've now spent £100 on sending faulty mods back to the builders to be looked at to find out the board just doesn't work... Evolv what on earth is going on with these defective boards? It's the most expensive thing I have ever bought with the mount of postage? I want to know why these fail... I mean the first board never had anything other than pre-made subtank ni200 coils which still work on my other devices...

Hi Brandon, Do you work for Evolv out of interest? So essentially you can build the 0.02ohm lowest NI coil run it at 200w on a 30amp battery and it won't cause any issues to fuse OR battery?

So a 0.05 ohm build (for Ni200 TC) at 125w would have 50amp draw, the 0.05 ohm build at 35w would have a 25amp draw... Am I right in saying that the DNA200 has an onboard 25amp fuse which could blow if you go over it? Also what happens if you go over the amp limit on a 3s lipo? As my math suggests bad news I havn't been brave enough to try it but I know people who have but would like to see what Evolv say about the fuse and everyone else about the lipo? Thanks in advanced,