VapingBad

I would check the output to 510 wiring, as a quick check run Atomiser Analyser and short the 510.

In Escribe - Device Monitor - press Diagnostics - Advanced - Perform USB Recovery Cahrging

I would have a play with it in device monitor so you can see how the diff settings affect it IIWU and take out some of that guess work. The default (DNA40) behaviour is to pre-heat for up to a second or until 100 F below the temp limit, whichever comes first, so lowering the temp limit will shorten the pre-heat. You can make a lot of adjustments to the pre-heat and suggest you do 3 profiles for each phase you describe where you can really tune these to what you want for each mood/time of day. Changes profiles on the mod is really quick.

Seems like 3 profile for this would be the easiest for you either way. Don't understand the last sentence "Adjusting the temp through watts causes a slow ramp time to temp" Watts and temp limit adjust different things and I would expect that lowering temp limit would increase heat up time as the pre-heat will then stop at a lower temp where it would not do so by lowering the watts.

Same as any VW device to set the amount of vapour, just using temp you may get more vapour than you want from large coils and less from small. With just temp consider the different vape from a small single coil and large dual coils. The usefulness of wattage adjustment hasn't gone away with temp limiting.

It may work well for some atomisers and be a valid option in that context, but maxing watts and just adjusting temp is like going back to mech set ups and having to set power with your atomiser build.

There is no harm not having it uninsulated under the collar as long as there in nothing inside the case that can touch it, after all air is a better insulator than silicon.

Sounds OK, IIRC John said up to 150 F in normal operation, but I could be misremembering.

I see a lot of misleading comments around the net about auto sensing and res locking for temp sensing and sometimes from very respected personalities. I have never needed res lock apart from on one really poor clone Origenny atty and IMO it is just a hack for lazy fw developers and poor connections neither of which should be happening in a perfect world.

I did drill the cap on a VT510 so the silicon insulation could go through it, but I only used 14 AWG.

Check with a metre first and if it's blown try and fix what blew it first or RTM it, the fuse part num in in the datasheet.

Sounds like a blown fuse.

Will you please take a look at this video and would this work for Neil? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ceW0MEK-Z4w[/QUOTE] Yep could just rip the air switch out of a cigalike auto battery and wire it to a DNA or many other boards, not investigated these switches but at worst it would need a simple circuit to support it.

Haven't seen Tandy (what Radio Shack called themselves in the UK) over here for years, I will keep an eye out for the silver bearing solder though. I like alu heat shunts holding the wire and holding these in the alligator clips, stops solder stiffening the wire by capillary action.

Interesting question, but not sure it would make any meaningful difference for surface mount in this application, but it wouldn't hurt either, belt and braces engineering. You used to be able to get audiophile silver solders, probably still can I have not had to buy any for a long time, but IMO always have good mechanical contact for your joints and treat the solder more as slightly conductive glue.

[/QUOTE] Have a look at this thread it should answer your questions, I can't tell for sure form your picture if the solder pads for the fuse are damaged, maybe not and if not you can just fit the standard fuse.

It looks like the top pad for the fuse is intact so you maybe able to fix the fuse to that and butt the wire to the other end. Alternatively you could bridge the fuse and use a 25 A auto fuse on the positive wire.

Could be a blown fuse, check the voltage is the same on both sides of the fuse with a metre.

It does say in the data sheet that one of the fire switch connections is at the positive battery voltage, is your button fully isolated from the case? The fuses can be replaced ther is a thread here somewhere.

I would think it is just a problem with the parallels USB implementation and you just got lucky with that one, have a look at the Mac support thread and see if there is a better host or anything else that may help.

There are 2 reboot commands in escribe tools menu, but on the mod you will need to disconnect the battery. You may need to do the update on a different machine, there is a thread on Mac support that has more detail on the USB implementations of various virtual host set ups for Windows that is worth reviewing.

He means the threads in the aluminium body the ss 510 screws into, it seems that some may be anodised. You can remove anodising with oven cleaner.

The Mac virtual machine USB implementation probably. In Escribe try manual FW update from the tools menu, failed updates seem to be easily recoverable by this method.

Drill the holes for each side neatly (3 mm dia, 5 mm apart), drill/grind out the metal between, tidy with needle files and finish with fine wet & dry paper.

Faster charging & being able to carry spare batteries.