VapingBad

Brandon posted that there are 2 solder points on the board that can power the LED, I'll see if I can find the thread. ... here you go /topic/66518-topic/?do=findComment&comment=897999

Yes you can use the metal case as a common ground, be careful that the stand off and screws are slim and don't extend beyond the tinned area around the holes. From p16 of the datasheet

Good idea, will try and have a look see tomorrow (2:50 AM here) E: Nice one that should help some people out.

lol, you don't need to do the math, just saying that seeing the analyse function working in your case doesn't necessarily mean the full operation is available, unless you have measured it happening. Like Spirometry said RMA it.

It is a jump to think that anything bad is happening that will shorten the life of your board, especially as I don't believe any damage has resulted. I bet if you put a USB metre like a Charge Doctor on it you will not see over 5 W being drawn.

Can't check exactly that scenario, but with the main battery plug disconnected and the balance still connected it shows the question mark in atty analyser.

IIRC sleep is an hour, your welcome screen should come up after pressing fire and nothing pressing up or down first.

I think the x&y are for the position of the values on your custom screen. Could you problem be to do with the mod getting hot during comps and remaining warm for a long time afer, maybe running case analyser would help, just a guess.

You are right I don't get it, as I read your posts you are saying it is flexing the cable causes these symptoms and also saying it is not the cable causing them. The insulation inside cables can get damaged by tight bending over time and can be anything from conductors getting too close to each other causing interference to shorts between conductors. In your case the simplest explanation is that a damaged cable is interfering with the data transmission. You do say that doing it with different cables causes different symptoms and to me that makes a problem with the board or socket far less likely. Not trying to be argumentative and have found this thread interesting, just not sure you actually have a fault.

It seems to me that the main issue is you have some damaged USB cables. You are assuming that the analyser readings are due to voltage going to the 510, well I imagine the voltage used it the analyser in the one second polls has probably come from a capacitor and not straining the USB, that it is not a problem for the board or the USB anyway and it could easily be the data lines being corrupted when you strain the cable that cause "?" and "error" to appear. I am not sure what the analyser should be doing from just USB or USB and no battery+ so I could be wrong. Thanks for the info John, the part about how the heat is generated charging with a blown fuse explains a couple of post I have read in the past.

I see, the path would be through the battery monitoring/charging controller chip I saw someone post a link to the spec sheet for that a couple of months ago on ECF IIRC.

So is that with the battery disconnected and the balance taps connected? I don't know the answer for you, but not clear if the balance plug is connected,

I would test the fuse with a multi meter to be sure.

Sounds like the fuse is blown.

With the USB plugged in and the battery & balance tap disconnected you will see the normal screens without the battery on the lhs, are you seeing the battery on the lhs? As I said in the linked thread this is needed to program the board before a battery is connected and probably other checks in production and I don't think it is anything to worry about. It does bypass the fuse, I don't see that a 25 A fuse on a USB connection could be viewed as protection and IIRC the fuse is mainly to protect the battery anyway.

The board powering for partial function via USB is not a bug, it is needed to program the boards without having to install them.

As long as it is to the company registered address and you have proof of delivery I wouldn't worry, at least they are not waiting until the old unit arrives and is tested before sending it out as most places would.

Seems like it should be quite dooable with the serial command set.

I never use it, but it locks the base or cool resistance of your coil(s) and stops the value being refined by the board, it can help where the 510 or coil connections are inconsistent or if you use it in a profile for a particular atty you can then fit that atty when it's warm and switch to that profile.

My heat shunts are like small but quite thick aluminium cross lock tweezers (from Maplin IIRC), I also have a pair of aluminium forceps (from Tandy/Radio Shack) that are great for tinning and soldering the thick wire without any solder travailing up the wire and making it stiff.

If c = charge/capacity, r = resistance, could e= volts (electromotive force)

Disconnect the battery is the only other way to hard reset as far as I know.

Are you sure they are not charge cables (with no data wires).

No, see this thread Bluetooth Scribe App. How cool would that be!

Using heat-shunts helps to prevent the wire getting stiff when tinning and soldering.