VapingBad

EG 1&2, 2&3, 3&4

Test adjacent pins for each cell voltage.

Could be a bad cell, damaged balance wire, dry solder joint or resistor damaged. Can you test the battery even a mulit metre will tell you what voltage is present on the balance plug.

Evolv will be selling them (IIRC case, buttons, 510 & maybe battery as a kit), but not quite yet, they are know as the beta or reference mod.

Thanks to you! You get the credit, I stole your ideas! [/QUOTE] We all share ideas, all standing on each others shoulders so to speak.

So they should limit who they sell to by race, is this the 17th century? Or is it high price fixing you want? Small run mod makers have a totally different USP and market anyway.

It will work BRD, but the board Evolv plan has reverse battery protection.

StealthVape have them in the UK, but I would phone them as it looks like they have put the 200 screens up as the small 25/30/40 screen when it is the same as the DNA40 large screen, at least that and works apparently. Link: http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/evolv

Lovely job Willy

I keep forgetting about the brightness as I changed it the first day, @John & @Brandon maybe an idea to default to > 0% as it keeps coming up.

It takes a short time to go into idle after you plug in the USB lead for them to display, I have Pack V, Wh & USB current.

That is like the how long is a piece of string question as they come in many sizes, to compare them to 18650s times the mAh by 3, but they have more use able power down low so it would be a little better. I reckon the one Evolv sell 900 mAh will last me about 1.25 - 1.4 times as much as a Samsung 25R vaping at 36 W.

You only need one 3S LiPo like the ones Evolv have for sale. For 18650s: 2 will limit you to 133 W but 3 will allow the full 200W, but for bothe these configurations there is no reverse battery protection and you need good cells, on paper that is only the Sony VTCs ATM, but the LG HE2 and Samsung 25R will almost certainly be OK.

That will work, but there is no reverse battery protection, Evolv plan to bring out a accessory board/module that can do that.

I just gave mine a gentle S bend and you could use a little kapton tape to hold the bend, bend not fold. I doubt they can change easily as they are bought in. You could also put a guard below the button.

The balance taps will not carry enough current, but they may charge at a low rate John said they never carry more than 40 mA per pin.

You need it all connected.

I think John just meant 70 F to 412 F rather than doubles every 400 F, but I would have expected around 68 to 350 F doubles r with TCR of 0.00641.

Seems like Youtube removed the sound for copyrighted material, back ground music I guess, I really feel for you 3 hours work spoilt like that.

Thanks Matt, just take your time, check everything at least twice and have a practice soldering the thick wires if you are new or rusty.

I'm no craftsman, alu is hard enough that as long as you haven't taken out too much you can just take your time and get OK results, like the straight edges I get them close with a file then tidy with 600 wet and dry paper warped around a bit of old credit card cut to the right width. I posted some details here on the build. Oh and it started looking like this

They are quite easy to mill with a dremel and tidy up with a needle file and fine abrasive paper.

I was meaning the cooling and heating time constants were different, I am not worried about and just posted as the topic came up.

I have so many computers in here I struggle to get the temp below 28 C at this time of year and both time I have run case analyser it spends the first hour waiting for the temperature to drop, I got quite different results each time, but the were different ambient and doff versions of escribe.