VapingBad

Mine is always high, but to be expected in a almost sealed xox my hand heats every now and again, but I don't have an accurate thermometer here to say how high.

Is it as simple as an older version of escribe? IIRC 2015-07-2 or later is required from here

These are not NiCad batteries, fully discharging and particularly fully charging will lead to lower battery life (you can take advantage of this on the mod tab in escribe), also no memory effect so nothing wrong with top-up charging, no trickle charging so no need to keep plugged in once fully charged. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

I tidied up the Hammond 1590A 950 mAh build I posted on page 4

Why not?[/QUOTE] Because then the charger would have to be able to deliver all the power. A phone hardly uses any power, an APV needs lots of power. When your APV cuts out because the battery is low and you then plug it into a charger doesn't mean you can start vaping right away.[/QUOTE] That is only if you run it flat, the DNA200 stops charging when you press fire and resumes 5 seconds after you stop firing so it is fine to top up and Li has no memory effect so there is no need to run them flat.

I have charges my one from 2 different power banks, 1 with 4 good condition 3400 mAh Panas in and the other with pretty knackered reclaimed laptop cells and both provide 1 A with no issues.

Just try and reflash the firmware that has worked for others.

I have done a few mods using the KSJs and usually have the up/down counter sunk so I don't need atty lock with the fire standing proud, but interference fit will loosen with use in aluminium so I always add some epoxy, polymorph or sugru to stabilise the switches, but then they are not so easy to rebuild. More to the point that is that if you are making them in quantity you want easy repeatability and doing say 9 layers of tape is easier and more accurate than trying to bend and cut 4 legs without a jig. ETA it's late here and I think that reads more negative that I meant, well don't mean to be negative at all but I am too tired to fix it and dyslexic so it's too easy for me to write what I don't mean.

Prototype the feature in the field with the sensor on an pub crawl or party safari, I'll help beta testing that scenario for expenses & bail

You could make a shim for under the switches xevape, EG n layers of kapton tape would work well and you can get the height very exact. If you did don't do one at a time, layer lengths of tape then cut and fit to the back of the switch before soldering.

You could rig the fire button to one of the air switches from a cigalike battery with a peto tube to one of those drip tip heat insulator/extensions.

An x axis would be nice even if it was just a small line at the bottom every second. Being able to scale it would be even better maybe one for the bottom of the todo list as we can use csv and excel to format if it is important for now.

+1

Ribbon Ni on steal rope wicks has improved to.

The USB socket is 6.7 mm long add a tenth of mm or two if you don't want this flush with the outside of the case, then subtract the thickness of your case for the length, cut them a little long and sand down to the exact length. On a Hammond 1590A I used 5.1 mm length made from some micro-bore copper water pipe/tube I had from years ago.

A good point, but I think that many of us have almost given up on this sort of thing since a very popular battery rewrapper that specialises in supplying vapers switched to only quoting the pulse discharge on their batteries, I won't buy or recommend them, but unfortunately it seems to help their sales. The conversion from 11.1 V mAh to 3.7 V mAh at least is not a safety issue, but I would like to see it at least qualified with the word equivalent or similar and ideally in Wh or an explanation.

To post your settings file go to save in escribe and it will open a file dialogue window that will have the folder path shown, once saved zip or rar compress it then post it, click the more reply options to see the attach file link.

If they read the same in dm you shouldn't need to measure them with a metre, I would do what John asked 2 posts above.

I don't think you get the early release fw that way only the official releases, the one with the steath mode fix is 7/29/2015 available here, Escribe will show which version your board has.

It doesn't, you need to remember the voltages for each example are different and both different to the battery voltage. V = IR 0.1 ohm @ 24.49 A = 2.449 V 1 ohm @ 7.75 A = 7.75 V I haven't checked but assume you are correct these both = 60 W, so the battery has to supply 61.86 W to the converter (the voltage this is at changes with battery charge). At the lowest charge level 9 V that would be 6.873 A (I = P/V). (To be pedantic P is not part of Ohm's Law)

That is the other side of the conversion process, on the battery side just think watts, the board is 97% efficient so it is not even worth doing the more accurate calc and factoring the 3% loss, but it would mean this: Out W Batt W 200 W 206.2 W 150 W 159.8 W 100 W 103.1 W .... This is the same regardless of the coil ohms, with all VW boards think watts in, watts out. So 9 V currents would be Out W Batt A 200 W 22.9 A 150 W 17.76 A 100 W 11.45 A But as always leave a little head room.

Already running it James and it all seems good

I don't think the KSJ switches buy you any more room the limiting factor to how close to the case you can get the board is the USB socket and the outside face and on 1.6 mm thick case like a Hammond 1590A that leaves plenty of room for the on-board switches. 1590A with 950 mAh

Put it on device monitor and see what the cells read, check you have set the battery Wh & check the battery and cell voltages on a multimeter.

No, but yes you can set the max power. EG 100 W at 9 V = 11.1 A, if you use 9 V that should give the max amps your battery is required to supply.