VapingBad

Just zapped 17 thread and banned the spammer.

I would guess it is that the 200 firmware knows how to talk to both and the red is slightly different protocol or wiring and they added the capability to the 200 fw when they first got warning that there was going to be a shortage. But they can't update the DNA40 that are already out there and/or the processor hasn't got enough spare space to take the extra routines. This is just a guess, I don't know if it it the case it just makes sense to me.

Screens with the green tabbed film on them will work with the DNA40 and 200. Screens with the red tabbed film will only work on the DNA200. No components from any manufacturers other than Evolv are compatible with our boards, or have been tested.[/QUOTE] Thanks Nick, I took the liberty of appending to the FAQ since it often comes up.[/QUOTE] Great, thank you! [/QUOTE] So for us it is mainly an issue if we borrow a screen from a 40 when we come to replace it later as all DNA40 screens fit the 200, but not vise versa if I read that correctly.

Screens with the green tabbed film on them will work with the DNA40 and 200. Screens with the red tabbed film will only work on the DNA200. No components from any manufacturers other than Evolv are compatible with our boards, or have been tested.[/QUOTE] Thanks Nick, I took the liberty of appending to the FAQ since it often comes up.

For a moment there I thought I was on the Darwin Awards website

The forum just hit the 6k mark Sorry YonderJuice you don't win anything other than a warm welcome for being the 6000th member.

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Some early batches of a few mods the wire could get sandwiched between actuator and the button taking the full force of every finger press on the fire button, but once the issue surfaced the makers soon stopped it happening. I think a lot of the concern comes from that TBH.

Black lace for 18650 I prefer the Xtar SP2s sometimes you can find them quite cheap for some reason 2 A charges are out of fashion. The Tunrigy is more for LiPo (almost any type), you can charge 18650 but it is just one channel so you would have to make up a multi-battery cradle with balance wires and balance charge or just charge one at a time.

Without comparing them with original ones IDK if they have been changed, but I doubt it. I've not broken either I just keep them them away from moving parts and as you say they are tough enough for the job, but maybe some people were just unlucky.

The DNA40 large screens will, I am 99.999% sure the RX200 will not work with a DNA200.

But do the screens still work? When people say break they mean stop working properly rather than snapping the whole cable. They should stand up to folding, but not more than once at the same spot.

Yes, the RDTA tank.

I find twisted 0.25 mm duals work well, 10 wraps on 2.5 mm former around 0.05 ohm and not too soft to re-wick YMMV. Or Ti 0.4 mm single strand, same size and wraps about 0.26 ohm. (These are on Aromamizers in my case)

Each to their own, you can't know everyone's reasons and there is a, false IMO, perception of it being too technical or difficult and misleading advise like you need resistance lock. In the end it is the same old same old in terms of difficulty, I started rebuilding by warping thin Kanthal around silica, then ribbon Kanthal, ss mesh & ss rope all before seeing my first micro-coil all had a degree of learning curve. I think that in some cases people just copy thick micro-coils they did with Kanthal in Ni200, often they were pioneered by mech vapers and tuned for power from a single battery. Personally I prefer coiling with Ni, rewicking micro-coils is the issue with Ni not coiling IMO and we forget that we didn't always put our wicks in after coiling and newer devices like the DNA200 can cope with lower starting resistances so we can use Ni200 that is easily to rewick even in dual coil now. TBH for the last couple of years I have been vaping dual coil gennies and found it difficult to get thin enough Ni in the UK, I use either twisted 34 AWG (0.16 mm) or 0.5 mm x 0.01 ribbon. l have always had some cotton tanks and drippers around and some of them just do not have a good enough electrical path and some have awful terminal that make temp limiting a lot more challenging than it needs to be. Ti works very well if you really need that Kanthal feel. And contrary to what many people advise I dry burn both at 600 F, just don't try and get then glowing orange. The basics have always been the same contact-area vs power, wicking and airflow. I sometimes hear people say they are not getting enough vapour, if they think about those principles a moment they probably have wicking and airflow sorted if they are experienced so try a bit more surface area to spread the heat. You get more vapour from 10 wraps than from 8 at the same temperature, you may not have room in your atty so drop down a wire size, you would need even more wraps but you would get more vapour. I have seen one smart person struggle for days until some one made a chance comment about those principles and they instantly realised it was lack of airflow, they haven't look back since. Most of us have probably had a atty or two that took a lot of effort to get a vape we liked with Kanthal, but once we found the way it was simple going forward, temp limiting can be like that for some, others get real close on the first shot. This post is too long and YMMV, but I would say to people having difficulty stick with it you should be able to get at least as good vape as you can with Kanthal if your atty is good enough.

If it does not see the coil raise temp by at least 150 F in the first second it will stop trying to operate it as a temp sensing coil. It could be a cold res too high, not enough power to get the coil to temp, connection issues (twisted needs all the strands firmly clamped), mismatched materials profile or wraps touching and shorting, not a complete list just the first things I can think of and not specific to Ti, there maybe some threads on Ti that will help. I would start by checking the resistance is stable in Atomiser Analyser and then look Device Monitor to see how the temp is raising (you may need to force new coil (discon & fire) to get it back into temp mode) to get it over a 150 F change in first second, maybe an increase in preheat if it can't get to temp or power if it can sustain temp.

I got 0.004 for my Realeaux with the soldered carto above, I have set it to 0.0036 IIRC Wismec have 0.003 in their config file.

Check your settings, maybe clean the balance connector pins with some IPA or meths and a pipe-cleaner or dental gap brush (disconnect the battery completely first). If they are in balance the the DNA will charge them fine, it will charge unbalanced batteries just slowly.

The best would be to charge the cells to the same level externally if you can, in this video the guy makes a lead to do it via the balance plug and you could do a single cell from a standard 18650 charger just make sure all the wires are secure. [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIbHLacozFo[/video]

Local metal supplier if you have one, in the UK you can get various small bit on eBay.

You can only add 8 one in each profile, you do it by picking custom as the Coil Material in a profile and uploading a csv for that wire. You can get the csvs here http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp just pick a wore type and click DNA200 in the results section at the top and download the file, it doesn't work with Internet Explorer so you need to use another browser.

The bottom battery in this pic doesn't get hot because it is not soaking up the heat from the charger, it stayed at 23 C while the 2 in the XTar charger get much warmer from the heat generated inside the charger, they are all charging at 2 A for the same length of time 60 mins in the pic when the temp was at it's highest.

Wouldn't grinding a little of the back of the button actuators fix that and allow the board to be tighten down fully for a good common ground connection?

Most of the heat comes from the charger, when I did my first DNA200 I got a LiPo Hobby charger (Turnigy B6), then got a temp sensor for it of eBay for a couple of quid. When I charge VTC4s or 25Rs from that at 2 A they don't get that hot < 40 C, but in 1 & 2 A 18650 chargers they get much warmer. One day I will break the XTars and wire them to seperat battery cradles and maybe add a heat sink as heat is not great for batteries.

I don't know the answer, but I just do a cotton scorch test. I would start with a Ni200 coil and some cheap cotton wool, use device manager to do 10 second puffs and it should mark the cotton around 440-460 F depending on the cotton, how tight and the coils geometry, but the point is to give you a datum for that cotton. Then try both profiles at the same temp with the ss.