VapingBad

No chilli sauce for me, mind you maybe I should have might have shifted this cold or at least the congestion.

2 x Xtar SP2, I am not a Nitecore fan just because they are slow there is nothing wring with them I just like to only charge batteries while I am in the room and awake. But if you have 2 or more sets most people will have enough time to charge, but unitl you get your charger I suggest you top up charge more often Li are not like NiCad and NiMh they don't have a memory effect.

My reply was cut short by the kebab delivery man, I would like to say sorry, but I am not (joke) So the 0.5 A is likely a limit set in windows, in earlier versions you could set the current limit in control panel but since 8, maybe 7 you can't and 0.5 A is all you will get. The batteries discharging after reaching 4.2 could just be the cells settling, balance discharging on the highest cell(s) or just the power running the screen. For me the whole point of this mod is that I can charge my 18650 separately and at 2 A, 4 VTC4s in 70 mins, 25Rs about 90 mins.

Case Analyser doesn't do mod resistance it collects data on the heat produced during charging and how the mod dissipates heat.

It's the air inlets on the bottom they are blocked when it is on a flat surface, but when you pick it up chances are your hand blocks most of the air outlets. Maybe charging on a uneven surface or putting a pencil or something under it will allow more airflow through the vent holes.

You could drill and tap a 1/2" UNF brass bolt to make an a adapter, IIRC (but check before you do anything) VT thread in M10x0.5 and FD M10x1 neither a standard thread.

The only thing I can suggest ATM is getting together with others in the UK and buying in quantity Mac, if you got 8 it would bring them down to about £20 each, more than that you would get charged import duty.

Any plans to supply these anodised Russ?

Because USPS are delivered by Royal Mail (regular mail service) they surcharge you on top of the duty. IIRC the duty is added at Heathrow, then it gets to the local sorting office and they just post a card though the door saying you have a package with duty to pay and you have to go to your local sorting office to pay (duty + handling charge) and pick up. The handling charge is £8, but I have heard of people being charged even more. The Duty (if value of goods not inc shipping > £15 and < £135) is only Value Added Tax 20% http://www.dutycalculator.com/country-guides/Import-duty-taxes-when-importing-into-the-United-Kingdom/

@Mac Based on dutycalculator.com but I could be wrong. The shipping cost based on First Class International Package(no Insurance included)Total customs value (CIF):£38.73This is the amount that customs values your import at- Duty:£0.00- VAT:£7.75Total import duty & taxes due:£7.75This is the amount that needs to be paid to customs- Product, shipping & insurance:£38.73Total landed cost:£46.47This is the total cost of importing, including product, shipping, insurance and import duty & taxes at exchange rate of 1 GBP = 1.47 USD[/QUOTE] You forgot the Royal Mail handling charge of at least £8, so to the UK they will be at least £54.47.

It may just be that the battery monitoring was interrupted by the update it keeps track of the whole cycle like mobile phones do so should get back to normal after charging. You could try a hard reboot through Escribe that may help. It could also be a weak cell you should see excessive sag when firing in Device Monitor for that.

They will be wired the same, it is just how the manufacturer decoded to do it that day, black and red wires tend to be cheaper than other colours and they were likely just using up what they had most of for the middle 2 wire.

Yes the screen (and board) should come on when USB attached, and EScribe should be able to do most everything it normally can just not fire the mod at any sort of power.

Everything you need is in this thread /topic/66226-topic/ and reverse battery protection here /topic/67232-topic/

Good to know the VT fits, did you have to trim the battery cradle at all?

Sounds like you already have a value set for mod resistance and it is measuring a too low value, you should zero it before measuring.

Are you sure it is a LiFePo I thought they were LiPo, they operate at different voltages to LiPos and you need to get this right, but the default is fine for both 3.09 V for LiPo and 2.7 V for LiFePo.

Is your PC Local set to the Netherlands? If that fails replacing file C:\Users\[your-user-name]\AppData\Roaming\Evolv\EScribe\Languages\nl\EScribe.po with C:\Users\[your-user-name]\AppData\Roaming\Evolv\EScribe\Languages\en\EScribe.po should do it, but it NL use "," for decimal it may create more problems than it cures.

It seems to stay on while the USB is connected, you can put the USB current on you charge screen and see it does drop to 0.00 A.

I do not agree with this chart. You are basing your calculations on resistance instead of wire length. In order to build a 1ohm coil in Ni200 you would need 56 wraps around a 2.5mm ID. If you used the same amount of wraps or wire length, it actually shows that SS316L is more accurate. To keep things consistent, I will also use steam engine for calculations. Example using 28 gauge in both materials 8 wraps of SS316L on a 2.5mm ID is 0.78ohm at 20c, at 200c the resistance will be 0.8372ohm, a change of 0.0572ohm 8 wraps of Ni200 on a 2.5mm ID is 0.10ohm at 20c, at 200c the resistance will be 0.131032ohm, a change of 0.031032ohm Also using the formula that was over on ECF for calculating the change in resistance based on TCR and cold ohms. For every 0.01ohm change on a 0.78ohm SS316L coil it will result in 14.25c. For every 0.01ohm change on a 0.10ohm Ni200 coil it will result in 16.67c. I was all about the Ni200 wire until I did these calculations which converted me straight to SS316L. Higher over all resistance (less amp draw), greater accuracy, and most importantly it was not flimsy and soft like the Ni200 wire [/QUOTE] I think you are reading too much into the table, it just shows the relative TCRs. Yes there are pros to having higher res coils especially minimising the component introduced by mod and atty resistances, but the proportion of change is important. But other factors including the length wire and mass of the coil & contact area are also very important for how the heat builds and transfers. I think your figures should be: 8 wraps of SS316L on a 2.5mm ID is 0.78ohm at 20c, at 200c the resistance will be 0.911ohm, a change of 0.125ohm. 8 wraps of Ni200 on a 2.5mm ID is 0.10ohm at 20c, at 200c the resistance will be 0.208ohm (TCR) or 0.1923ohm (curve), a change of 0.108ohm (TCR) or 0.0923ohm (curve). A big question is the accuracy of the electronics, I doubt it is set value in milliohms or a set percentage, somewhere between the 2 probably. But most measurement equipment is rated by percentage accuracy so I would suspect this is more important, also I get the impression more people struggle with temp limiting using ss the Ni.

Nice, two up buttons, a bit like the preheat going to 11 Seriously though, they do look good

Could be a loose connection, it is seeing the resistance jump to 0.58. I am running 3 of these without problem with Ni & Ti, but have noticed that sometimes post screws need a tighten after the first few heat cycles.

I just noticed I am now an admin to, so approved the waiting pending members except one who answered the questions with nonsense. BTW, I am not connected to Evolv in any way so cannot answer questions about production, RMAs, feature requests, ETC.

Nothing at all flaky about temp limiting on any of the DNAs IMO, it works great with single and dual Ni & Ti. You do need to ensure dual coils are very closely balanced, but other than that they are they are as rock solid as single, ss needs more effort as it is barely a temp sensing alloy. Obviously you need the right materials profile for your wire and good connections, and as the resistance is typically lower so having the mod resistance set is more important. I have been dual coiling Ni200 for over a year and the only extra challenge has been sourcing thin enough Ni200 (twisted 34 AWG, 0.16 mm) for the DNA40, you can also use 0.4 mm Ti and drop the temp by 90 F on the DNA40. A good tip it to cut both lengths of wire exactly the same length before coiling and check the tails are the same length before trimming when fitting the coils.