VapingBad

Device manager shows the mWh used under Energy at the bottom just note it when fully charged, then when the DNA refuses to fire and the difference divided by a thousand should be a good value for your Wh setting.

Unless you are chain vaping at 200 W the Samsungs and LGs are better value IMO.

Don't do it, the current rating is IIRC only about a quarter of what's needed. You need a constant discharge rating of 23 A or more. So Sony VTC3, 4 or 5, Samsung 25R or LG HE2 or HE4, only the Sonys are up to spec on paper, but the others are conservatively rated at 20 A and would be fine for 99% of vapers in a DNA200.

/topic/67428-topic/

Yes that is fine, the math: current rating = C rating x Capacity in Amp Hours (divide by 1000 if using mAh) current rating = 25 x 1350/1000 current rating = 25 x 1.35 current rating = 33.75 A

The community spreadsheet includes real battery dimensions it would be great if you have ran the analyser to add these, it also has many categories of resources. /topic/65816-topic/

If I had just waited a few more hours to register I could have had nothing too! -shakes fist- [/QUOTE] You get a warm welcome, welcome wiredl0ve!

The top 2 are a 0.049 ohm dual twisted Ni200 build in an Aromamizer, if the TCR is 0.00641 then ?R per degree C is ~0.314 milliohm, preheat was 100 W. The 3rd is a 0.224 ohm 0.4 mm TiG1 dual build in an Aromamizer, if the TCR is 0.00366 then ?R per degree C is ~0.82 milliohm, preheat was 100 W. The bottom one is a dual 0.5x0.1 ribbon Ni200 on stainless steal wicks in an Origenny V2, if the TCR is 0.00641 then ?R per degree C is ~0.3 milliohm, preheat was 80 W. All are smoother than the ss above, so I don't think resistance resolution is the reason as 2 of those plots have a much lower ?R per degree C. timescale was 10 sec, but cropped to 6-7, but they are all the same scale.

Got the last one after only 3 post < 1 minute, they didn't have random text in the profile.

It is an inductor not a chip, if it were me I would return it to the vendor as it seem it took a knock during manufacture. This may be of interest /topic/67527-topic/

In EScribe on the Mod tab under Manufacture settings check that it is below 0.010, even that is high IMO all my mods are < 0.004 ohm. If it is set it is worth zeroing it (take a note of the value first) to see if that helps.

Cheers blueridgedog, I mainly use Ni so it is easy to forget Ti and SS coils have a lot more mass to heat.

When it does not show the temp it is normally because it doesn't sense a temperature raise of 150 F in the first second. Is your mod resistance set high? zero is better that too high.

You are doing the right things and shouldn't be getting the hot spots, I would re-tighten the coils and clean both sides of the 510 then if that doesn't work try a different atomiser.

What wire are you using Tom?

/topic/67435-topic/?do=findComment&comment=906824

I will PM an answer, discussing the detail can only help the spammers.

In EScribe - Screen tab set the "Charging Brightness" to 0%.

Today's the day, can't wait to get these through the letter box.

Lots here /topic/65591-topic/

Maybe, they are now banned and it's cleaned up.

Cell 3 is too low for it to charge normally, is it a 2 cell mod with the setting in the mod tab set to 3 cell?

Just zapped 17 thread and banned the spammer.[/QUOTE] . It's 3am in the UK, you just woke up?[/QUOTE] No time for soon though.