VapingBad

lol

If you're referring to my avatar, it seems they get a bit squishy here! Maybe there's something in Escribe to fix it![/QUOTE] lol ,no you said get your pointed little head around it,lol no matter. Mine is remarked apon as being perfectly round.[/QUOTE] R u Carl Pilkington (HLAFO) Black Lace?

Welcome Analias, yea there is loads of info, but I would just install EScribe and have a play, there is a great interactive tutorial and a manual to help you find your way around it is easier than it looks at first.

I got similar results yesterday with dual triple twisted 0.2 mm Ni200 for coil wraps touching, it cleared to a very smooth temp after strumming them.

Yep, that sentiment goes all the way through this thread I don't think that anyone has been against having both methods as options in this thread.

I largely agree, but would add that in what is being called wattage camp the heat up curve is often faster, especially compared to devices with out preheat and can be used to have a forward loaded vape if that's your thing. Just increasing the temp past the boiling point will not continue to increase the vapour in the same way. I am vary far from an expert on this, or anything vaping, but IIRC the liquid in contact with the coil will become a layer super heated steam which will heat the liquid that creates the vapour. As you and many people in this thread have said both methods can give you a great vape and neither is wrong, it is just about choice. But they are not the only controls you have EG if you want more vapour you can also increase airflow or contact area between the coil and wick, if you want faster heat up & cool down you can use thinner wicks and thinner wire. This is a great tool, but you still need to match your atty and build to your vaping style.

I just don't understand why you feel that people need to be in different camps lewisss.

Really? Wattage example Anemic vape Hold to unlock power Increase watts puff ..bit more Increase watts puff little bit too much Lower watts .. Perfect Hold to lock power Temp example Anemic vape Lock device Hold to set temp Increase temp Unlock device Puff .. Bit more Lock device Hold to set temp Increase temp Unlock device Puff Little bit too much Lock device Hold to set temp Lower temp Unlock device Puff ..., mm mm tastes like it would be perfect in between this and the higher one ( about 5 degrees more! Drives home Turns on laptop Signs in Opens escribe Connects device Changes temp on escribe by +5 degrees Puff ... Perfect So scooby, maybe I have gone to extremes here but my point is yes, to change it once is 15 seconds but how often do you adjust a setting and it is perfect the first time! It is a shame that the best temperature control device on the market is set up to adjust power as the default! Almost as if the temp control was a second thought! [/QUOTE] He said he saw your point before you made it. The going into Escribe to change the temp by less than 10 F is a separate point and there is a feature request for that. Each to there own I feel it should be an option, personally I set temp to suit the liquid and use preheat & watts to adjust the amount of vapour, but like scooby have no problem with people using it another way. IMO anaemic vape is more likely a arty or build issue than temperature setting, but YMMV.

It sounds like a connection problem and if you can eliminate the atomiser it could be the ground connection . The following may void your Wismec warranty IDK, there is a screw under the white foam plug in the battery sled that holds the ground connection from the batteries and tweaking it may solve your issue.

I would love this, currently I set all sorts of odd temps through EScribe and then the mod goes up or down by 10 F.

Well explained xxsteven69xx , I would add than IMO the real time power regulation is still important in non-temp operation for shots ETC. and to keep the power accurate with wires like stainless steel.

The spec on the label is fine 11.1 v & 30 C x 2200 mAh = current rating of 66 A and the min is 23 A.

No sorry, I don't regularly do Claptons or ss.

The res changing when cold in the morning is almost definitely a connection issue, I have had it a few times and tracked it down to coils screws not being tight enough.

[QUOTE=Jo] [QUOTE=VapingBad]Yes, it is fine the DNA will only draw up to 1 A as long as the USB supply is reasonable quality and your one will be is it is a genuine Samsung or other decent make. This is standard behaviour for anything taking power from USB it should only take what it needs and not specific to DNAs.[/QUOTE] Please tell me, and if the adapter 220V to 5,2V(1A) for Ipad will burn, will DNA burn too??Is protection for such a case in the DNA? [/QUOTE] As long as it is USB, has USB or the logo on it it will be fine, the USB specification is 5.0 V +/- 0.25 V so 5.2 V is just within it.

Less than 40 mA /topic/68390-topic/ post #5

You can also get it with only 2 cells in a 3 cell mod, EG while change batteries in a Reuleaux.

Try a higher temp, it will stop treating the coil as temp sensing if it does not increase temp by at least 150 degrees F in the first second, I know that your temp is greater than that + room temp, but it may get you closer to finding the solution. Also I would lower the wattage so when this happens you are not getting that much power.

Bridge the 2 pins AND change to 2 cell battery in EScribe, then it will do everything except go above 133 W, I would also check the what hours value you can use the calculator with 7.4 V as the battery voltage.

/topic/66901-topic/ /topic/68133-topic/

I think you will have to connect the balance wires, bridge the 2 highest pins (2 & 3) and set it to 2S because Power Supply will expect 9-12 V and a 2S will not give that.

I don't think it would cause damage, just that the chip would see a 3S battery with only 2 cells getting charges unless they have bridged pins 2 & 3 on the battery for you, does it have a 3 or 4 pin balance connector? BTW pins 2 & 3 are not the middle, but the 2 closest to the positive lead.

Mod resistance setting and as your friend said atty resistance will affect it, get the mod resistance right and a really good (very low res atty) and you should get better results. The mods are essentially providing the power to the 510 and some is dissipated in the atty.

It should move up an down, I read some where that they have beta units and should be doing QC on them, check there is not a tiny proud bit on the hex section, I had one and a light tap with a pin hammer sorted it out. This should not be a problem when Evolv officially release them.

It depends a lot on your power levels at low power the 3,000 mAh may be better, but they are not so good at higher power levels, myself I would stick with the 2,500 mAh. But I don't keep up to date https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/ has a lot of test results