VapingBad

You can just about drill and keep the lip, but with the big wire it is not essential IMO.

On Varitube you can drill out the bottom brass cover/spring-retainer a little to get a bigger wire in.

I cut down some cheap pencil erasers, they are pennies from office supply stores. You can get velcro battery strap kits form RC Hobby suppliers or eBay if you prefer, I would if I had a magnetic door.

Vaping.......YOU'RE THE MAN!!!!!!!! YOU SAVE ME!!!!!!!!!! All the problem in in the srew under the white sponge, i had removed the sponde and tight the screw, and now all is working perfect!!!!!!! THANKS THANKS THANKS!!!!!!!!!!![/QUOTE] glad you got it sorted

Looks like a bad cell 3 (multi metre readings will match EScribe values) or bad connection to the balance connection (the cells will measure correctly on a multi metre) for that cell, really you should return the mod or battery. To measure the cells with a mm start at the negative side or the 4 pin connector with the black probe on that side and the red in the adjacent pin for cell 1, then move them both 1 space up for cell 2 and both 1 space up for cell again for cell 3.

Does this actually fix the problem though? The problem isnt the button touching the cable, its the button pushing on the cable and making the cable move. If your plastic shim still gets hit by the button and causes the cable to move, you'll have the same problem. Ribbon cables are not made to constantly be flexing around, the wires inside are very very fine and constant movement is what causes them to break.[/QUOTE] Yes, the plastic stays put and acts as a barrier between the cable and button so both possible modes of failure are averted, 1 the cable getting pinched between the button and switch and 2 abrasion of the cable by the switch.

It is not all text over the serial port, that is mainly for the Device Monitor stuff, all the firmware, themes and settings are binary so need lower level access.

Strange, you have probably tried this, but just in case you have not clean all the battery contacts and the ends of the batteries with IPA, rubbing alcohol or mentholated spirit and fully charge your batteries then look at the individual cell voltages in EScribe - Device Monitor, they should all be equal both at rest and when firing (small deviations when firing are OK).

Sounds just like a decimal format mismatch where the csv and Windows are using different formats, UK & US use . for decimal and many other countries use , You could make a copy of the csv and edit that in notepad or notepad++ to you local format (save the default one to a file so you can see exactly what is required) or temporally change the Windows setting, but I thought the later versions of EScribe had addressed this issue.

Try and return it under warranty and be clear that it is a manufacturing problem, it has been well known since before they introduced that mod the cable should be kept clear of the fire button. In EScribe - Help - About EScribe click the logo 7 times then go to Device Monitor and look at the Screen Disconnect value if I'm right it will be greater than zero.

Sounds like they let the screen cable get under the fire button, a definite manufacturing fault by Vapecig and it will need a new screen, unfortunately they are in short supply via retail outlets ATM though manufactures may well have stock for repairs.

I got one today and all the cells have about the same voltage drop, it may just be the ground strap screw is not tight enough in the ones with a weak cell 1.

Why risk taking your screen out and putting more folds in it , as I said earlier just put a bit of plastic between the cable and the button, I just got a Reuleuax today I did some pics. I gently worked the plastic in between the wire and the switch from the direction of the arrow then trimmed the excess off.

TBH I think your issues are all tank related, using ohms lock would probably help with the 2 that are giving you problems. Not all atomisers have stable enough connection for temp limiting especially clearomisers like the SubTanks, IIWY I would get it working with a decent rebuildable tank, dripper or genny using Ni200 and no custom materials profiles first. All you are doing with a Hard Reboot is forcing it to lose it's short term memory and treat the atomiser as a new one at room temperature. E: If you search this forum there are a few threads about the TFV4 that may help you.

No, 2015-09-30 is the latest and what the Reuleaux is shipping with.

I would guess they have fixed everything that needed fixing and are working on a Mac version wanting to have the PC and Mac versions as close as possible to each other.

Fixed the link, I would use the latest IIWU, you can always downgrade in the unlikely event of something not working as well as an older version. E: ninjard by dc601

For some reason Evolv have not put the latest in the auto update chain, but you can get them here they are stable and many of use have been using them since they were released.

They are only 1500 mAh, just them taking the pish giving the mAh at 3.7 V.

http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_275032.html It is on FT as well under another name SKU 3911903

That's correct the Wh set the capacity and the curve just deals with the characteristics of the type of battery independent of a specific capacity. Using ultra high wattages may give a slightly different curve.

StealthVape in the UK have DNA200 in bulk packaging listed again, no spare screens though. They had sold out of retail DNA200s a few weeks ago.

Love my gennies, but I love flavour and I don't tell drippers they have it all wrong.

1st rule of vape club: Whatever works for you (or them) is the right solution. Clouds, flavour, watts, ohms, temp, PG:VG, cotton, rayon, genesis, kanthal, titanium, stainless steel are just details.

IMO the fix shouldn't need removing the screen, I can't be 100% as my Reuleaux is still in the postal system, but from the pictures you could just put a thin bit of plastic between the button and the screen cable, perpendicular to the board, maybe attached to the dark outer housing.