VapingBad

Lance does it have a zip extension/file type? If so you need to extract the .ecig file, sorry you probably already did this, but worth mentioning just in-case.

There is a white foam plug in the battery bay covering the ground connection from the batter cradle to the board you could try and give the screw a tweak, don't over tighten. It is also one of the connections for the balance connectors for cell 1 so there is more than a good chance it is your problem.

Yes, it is fine the DNA will only draw up to 1 A as long as the USB supply is reasonable quality and your one will be is it is a genuine Samsung or other decent make. This is standard behaviour for anything taking power from USB it should only take what it needs and not specific to DNAs.

1/2" 20 pitch, sorry forget the US name but in the UK it would be 1/2" UNF.

In series so 11.1 V x 2500 mAh, but 3.7 V x 3 x 2500 mAh gives the same answer of 27.75 Wh. (IIRC the specs on 25Rs have nominal A 3.6 V, which would give 27 Wh)

alendra has been posting spam links for hours, positing in the hope someone who can fix this followed this thread.

Wh = mAh x nominal_voltage / 1000 11.1 V (3 cells in series) 2000 mAh (per cell) = 11.1 x 2000 /1000 = 22.2 Wh or 3.7 V (single cell) 6000 mAh (3 x 2000 mAh cells) = 3.7 x 6000 / 1000 = 22.2 Wh So series and parallel come out the same Wh.

I get unsupported file format from that ecig profile. When i try to upload it to the vt200[/QUOTE] You probably have a different globalisation setting for number formats, you can temporally change it to en-US to load the file.

Very nice AMDtrucking

The nominal battery voltage.

Yes, you are right it is the 3rd one

That is very strange that only the battery Wh doesn't save to the device, unless someone else has a battery idea I would return it, if it is a stack em high sell em cheap far east vendor it would pay you to make a video of it first and send them that. Just setting,& saving, unplug USB, close and reopen Escribe, set the Wh to something silly like 50, plug in USB and click the OK on the Connect pop up then show the Wh setting downloaded from the device.

Sorry, I don't know anywhere to get a screen ATM they have been in short supply for a while now due to a fire in a factory that makes them and mony ohter small OLED screens, a DNA40 large screen will work if you can borrow one of another device until they are available again.

Just on the off chance we are at cross purposes I mean this button and you said updated. Other than that the only thing I could think of is resetting the DNA to defaults, but I doubt you would do that accidentally and repeatedly.

Does it have restore or size, it may be displaying off the visible desktop, this sometimes happens if you occasionally use dual monitors or different res monitors.

I think that the other things your reading resistance on is wrong, it is difficult at such low resistances and even meter leads often have a res of 0.2, setting mod res too high with temp limiting will cause problems. The DNA does not use the resistance to workout the wattage like many less sophisticated boards so this will not cause the problem you describe with Kanthal.

Have you uploaded settings to device after you changed it, it will also show defaults when you start EScribe until it downloads the settings from your device.

It depends on the purity, it could be, Ni200 >= 99.6% nickel. That is 2 x 19 warp coils for 0.109 link and 0.05 would be 2 x 8.5 wrap coils link The DNA will not fire at too high current, but even though the batteries should be >= 23 A, the board can output up to 55 A from that safely as the voltages are different. The board converts both current and voltage.

No, but they will not be both 3100 mAh and 40 A continuous discharge, probably well under 20 A, don't use the at high wattages

0.07 is way too high, Wismec ship them set to 0.003 & I measured mine at 0.004 so set it to 0.0036.

Going through the watts suggests it thinks a button is being pressed and the warranty service could be because of the battery levels are unbalanced. Could one of the buttons be jammed or e-liquid got on the board? I would get it exchanged or repaired, all tightening that screw should do is ensure the negative battery connection is good and it shouldn't cause anything else to go wrong.

Seem a bit like this thread /topic/66406-topic/

If those batteries worked before I would think it is a fault, but wait and maybe somebody else has come across this before and could help.

Assuming the batteries are charges and you have cleaned the contacts (mod and battery) with IPA, rubbing alcohol, meths or other contact cleaner: Have a look in EScribe - Device Monitor for the cell voltages, if they are fully charged they should be 4.2 V also look for a low one, you can try and get them setted better in the battery tray if they are low. If you have a low cell1 and can't solve it by swapping the batteries around, there is a screw hold blocked off with white foam behind the batteries, below that is a screw for the ground connection that might have loosened, but be careful not to over-tighten it. If you change the batteries while connected to USB it may not have registered the power off so a soft reboot or removing and replacing the batteries may help.

If you are going to bend the screen cable it will be a lot easier and IMO safer to disconnect the cable from the board by flipping the plug clip up and make one fold at a time rather than the 3 at one time doing it in-place. They are not fragile when done like this as long as you don't bend it right by the screen and don't bend it repeatedly in the same place. Ceramic tweezers or a wood tooth-pick in the hole on the cable are good to insert it back into the plug, take it slowly and don't force anything. Though I still think the piece of plastic method I posted before is less risky if you are new to this. How the zif socket opens, be very gentle with this, the cable comes in from the rhs of the picture.