VapingBad

You are welcome

If it can be sure it it a new atty it does not ask, if the res is close it will, you can change how close on the mod tab in EScribe.

Yes, LiPo and put 1300 mAh with 11.1 V in the What hour calc, but I think there is an official settings file for these, yes see /topic/67562-topic/

Probably, a 0.27 coil could be 0.54 when very hot, but not the other way around.

Twisted 0.25 mm Ni200 is good, easy to work with and strong enough to re-wick without distorting the coil, you would just leave the DNA200 in it's default setting to start with, then play with the temp and see what suits you. 10 wraps on 2 mm wicks is a good build for around 40-80 W. I don't know why anyone would not like the DNA200 in non temp mode, it is probably the only device ATM that will give you the correct power all teh way up to 200 W with DC and real-time power regulation.

Bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor in EScribe.

Very interested especially as it looks like you went with the Evolv 510 cutout.

If it is working fine after bending then it's all good and as you say just leave it be it just needs to be clear of the button.

Yes, it can work, but it wont perform as well as Ni or Ti and it can be a lot more difficult to set up IMO, also I read it is giving people issues with hot legs on pre heat which is enough of a reason to avoid it for me. We are all different and if you really want to why not, just saying it is not as easy to use or has as good performance as Ni200.

Yes, but ss is not a good temp sensing wire especially if this is your first temp limiting mod, IMO Ni200 is the easiest all round and the most accurate, if you really can't got on with Ni200 grade one Ti is good if you get matching wire and materials profile.

In EScribe assign a profile for each wire and choose custom as the "Coil Material" and load the csv for that wire then save it to the device. You can get the csv from http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp (don't use Internet Explorer) just pick the wire type then click DNA200 under the results section at the top and click "Download TFR table as CSV" button.

Both are a method of expressing the relationship between temperature and resistance, both can be set to different degrees of accuracy, a TCR is limited to a linear-relationship and the csv is not. If the material has a perfectly linear-relationship/flat-curve they are as good as each other, but for materials that don't the csv can be more accurate. So a csv is definitely a superior method.

No in Device Monitor that is the power (W Watts) you are vaping at, on the Mod tab it is the power contained in the batteries (Wh Watt hours). The settings in Device Monitor are just ther for convenience to operate the mod from the computer.

Personally I would not bother with SS, but never had a problem that I can solve with Ni200. SS can work, obviously not as well as Ni or even Ti, but you need to have the mod res set correctly, an atty with good connections ant the right materials profile.

Bend around a credit card so it forms a bend as opposed to a fold.

It may not have stopped the cloners, but I think the patients made YiHi take less desirable routes going right back to their earlier boards and the lack of real-time power regulation right up to temp limiting by pulse and pause rather than DC.

Bend the wire around a credit card, only do one bend at a time, don't bend the wire within the first mm or two from the glass and don't bend in the same place more than once. Ceramic or plastic tweezers are good for pushing the wire into the ZIF socket, you can also use a tooth pic in the hole in the wire. The screens don't come with a sticky pad but the old pad will probably be fine to hold the screen in place, the only adhesives Evolv say are alright to contact the board are Electronics Grade silicon or Electronics Grade epoxy (solvent free).

OK

Check the board screws BRD /topic/67722-topic/

Does your mod use a chassis common ground, if so it is worth tweaking the ground screws and checking the 510 to body is making a good connection.

I got a similar behaviour from an origenny V2 clone jumping 30-40% in resistance after the mod had cooled for a few hours and cured it by tightening the common coil ground screw with a Allen key rather than the screw driver type ones, it had previously felt tight and it felt like I was doing it up far too tight for a M2.5 screw but it cured the problem.

You should also be able get the same result forcing a new coil reading without a PC connection by loosening the atty, firing, re-tightening the atty and choosing new coil. It does seem to be a bug in refinement I would expect the logic give high priority to using the minimum resistance it measures while the room temp is >= 70 F as cold ohms. Does soft reboot have the same effect? Hard will lose the short term memory used by refinement and I would expect soft to store the current cold ohms before cycling. Hard is the same as disconnecting the battery and soft the same as going into sleep mode with regard to saving settings.

They are set up for Sony VTC4s, but just changing the Watt hours will be good enough for most decent batteries. I would just do that and if the battery bar is out enough to bother you you can find a profile for your batteries or run the battery analyser and generate one.

If a thin disc magnet on the positive end of the battery fixes the issue then lowering that ring may be the answer, if not it is something else, but it is a issue some people have and will vary between batteries.

The plastic ring around the brass coloured contact on the positive contacts could prevent some batteries making a good connection.