Spector NS5 RD

TBH, if you bought the cell from a reputable seller, the sag is consistent with my VTC5A cells. the DNA 75 is a power hungry board, as are most other single 18650 75w+ mods. you will see more sag due the fact you have only one cell to feed the DNA 75 board, where as 2-3 cells would spread the load across them. i'd say you're good to go. just a side note, you can check to see what your "cell soft cutoff" is set to. on my 18650 DNA 75 mods, i lower the value to 2.65v - 2.7v. what that does is slightly pushes back the "weak battery" bar flashing too early and eeks out a little extra cell life.

where did you buy the cells from? here's a few screenshots of one of my VTC5A's. one at 75w and the other at 48w, like yours. both with a .33 ohm load. what kind of sag do you see at 75w? what brand mod is this?

why don't you make a single and dual cell holder for the new Sanyo 20700 cells. i guess you would need plastic blanks or something (i'm interested in those new cells). nifty piece of equipment you got there. what's the largest dia end mill you can fit in it?

26650's aren't the best performers in terms of providing enough current to the DNA 75 board. i'm sure what brand of 26650 cell Boxer re-wraps. you would need to get an actual 25-30 amp 26650 if you're going to run at 75w. here's a list of 26650 cells that a good fit for the 75 (the ijoy having the best CDR)

there's more than one manufacturer the uses the DNA 250 in a rugged, "drive over it and survive" box. here's a few... modcrate vaporized nomads mad modder and many more

welcome to the forum Padillaeric. what brand / mah cell are you using? what is your "cell soft cutoff" set to in Escribe?

pre-made coils can be hit or miss in terms of TC accuracy/stability. so can be the tanks they screw into. if you're getting the message as soon as you depress the fire button, i would a)raise your set temp b)open atomizer analyzer and take note of the resistance while resting (room temp atty). are the ohms jumping wildly? c)check all connection points (device's 510 threads and pin / atty 510 threads and pin / coil threads) d)make sure you have the correct material selected for the coil you're using. e)try a different coil (what tank is this, anyway?) f)if the resistance is a lot lower (in atty analyzer) than what's rated on the coil, you have a short, tank related. g)coil hot spots and a very low (false) base resistance will immediately trigger "temp protect" message.

depends how many tickets are in front of yours. can take a few days to a week to receive a response but they WILL get back to you, hang in there. the turn around time has been very fast for me when dealing with evolv's warranty.

if it's a DNA 75, it will turn green, just give it time. Assuming your LED is set correctly in EScribe.

i'm guessing they just programmed a 250 with the 200's limits and sent it out to you. why? i don't know. okie dokie....take care Smeef!

welcome to forum Sh1buy4. you sure can switch a 167 back to a 250. you would need to rewire the balance tap connection for 3S operation and change a couple settings in EScribe.

ya your charging at .8xx amps from EScribe (would be 1a if you had a better USB cable. the USB current is limited if the USB voltage falls below 4.26v). so i bet it WILL charge at 2a if you get a good USB cable capable of passing 2a and a good 2a wall charger. what happens if you try and change your "kanthal power limit" to 250 and "upload" that to your mod? does the mod NOW go up to 250w? edit... and you would have to change your input amps to 28 for both fields. edit2... LOL your running 2 cell so 167 would be the max on kanthal power limit when in 2S mode.

strange, this is what i see when i plug in one of my 250's....... i would email evolv and ask them what's up with......."that". then post back here with the response you receive. as long as it's working for you and you're happy, that's what matters. just very curious as to why they sent you a "200 - ized" 250 board. maybe that's what they're sending out now for a 200 replacement, but that doesn't make a whole lot of sense me. i just don't know!

ya that's 100% a DNA 250 board. you see the component (inductor) on the front marked "4R7"? that is one of a few new components, only on the DNA 250, responsible for the 2a charging. if you go into EScribe, the USB current, on a DNA 250, should be limited to 1a and .5a for a DNA 200. do you see 1a? post a screenshot of device monitor with the USB voltage and current boxes ticked. also post a SS of your battery settings. this is interesting me.

that's a 250 board. at least the hardware layout is that of a DNA 250. post a pic of the front. that will tell me a lot more than just a pic of the back. that will also tell me what charging circuit it has. it can be possible you have the incorrect firmware on the board, your setting in EScribe are incorrect (kanthal limit, USB charge current limit) who knows. i don't see why evolv would send you a 250 limited to 200w, the 200 was not discontinued. although it is a direct drop in replacement for the 200, the 2a charging components make it necessary to modify the screen holder of many mass produced mods in order for a correct fit.

open an evolv help ticket.

what's happening is the mod, since it sees no battery, is dragging your laptop's USB voltage way down to the point of drawing too much power from the port when you try to fire the atty. basically it's trying to fire the atty by using the USB voltage instead of the battery. don't do that anymore or at least don't use your laptop as the USB power source. looks like you're running very old firmware. try updating to EScribe 1.2 SP5. the link is at the bottom of this post, in my signature. if that doesn't work, it could be the fuse. it's hard to tell from the picture but it does look like there is a little discoloration of the fuse. in that case i would open a help ticket with evolv. that link is also located in my signature.

your pack is inline with the 3 cells. they also seem to be balanced. the lipo and fuse seem to be OK. will the device power on, even temporarily, if you HOLD DOWN the fire button (not just press and let go, hold the fire button in) and keep it held in? another thing to try, what happens if you plug in the USB charger and press the fire button? does the device display "check battery"? can you post a screenshot of your battery settings in EScribe?

do you own a multi meter? you can check to see if there is continuity between the fuse. i would also check the individual cell voltages. could just be a dead lipo pack. what does EScribe's device monitor say for the 3 cell voltages and pack voltage?

post a screenshot of device monitor while firing the build you're having a problem with.

ya glad it's working correctly again, hope it stays that way. maybe as a last ditch effort, if it happens again, re-flash the firmware you're running. other than that i'm out of ideas! lol. something's not letting the board deliver the wattage you have selected. it's either on the battery side or atty side, is my GUESS.

it might be a poor connection somewhere between the board and your build. i.e. 510 wires (soldering), 510 itself, poor atty for TC. loose wire post connections. dirty 510. if you open atomizer analyzer and tap on the atty or mod, does the resistance change a considerable amount? does this behavior occur with all attys or just one in particular? it's super hard trying diagnose problems like these over the internet, but we'll see if we can figure this out.

does it do it in reg wattage/kanthal mode as well? can you try it it at, say at 100w?

something is telling the DNA board to cut power...in and out....in and out.....in and out. either sag or a poor connection whether it's cell related or....? poor or dirty cell contacts? weak connection pressure against the cell... you see how cell 1 looks like a saw tooth? but cell 2 is smoother. if you spin or wiggle the cells, while firing, does the behavior get worse/improve? are you getting the "check battery" or "imbalanced cell" error on the mod's screen when this is happening?

i think the majority of the boards survive. however, like any other electronic device there will be failures, regardless of X amount of QC steps. i believe that out of all the DNA 200/250/75 boards out there, at least 95% (most likely higher) of em will function and continue to function for many years. there are over 16,xxx members on this forum, out of all the posts, the failure rate (actual defective board) is low. now i did have 2 regular DNA 200 boards die within a few days of each other. however, it was my partially my fault due to running an unreleased beta firmware. that's were evolv's warranty service shines. both boards were replaced within a few days. i also had 2 vaporshark DNA 200 boards (DNA 200 / DNA 133 flask) die on me. once again, that's where VS's warranty service shines. both boards were replaced and have been working flawlessly since. i almost always vape in TC and i know if i want an accurate and dependable TC vape, i pick up an evolv "chipped" mod. i can't find another board yet that compares to vape i get from an evolv board. i still buy chinese "chipped" boards but mainly just to play around with, take to work, beat em up and take em apart. i think VS's mods and customer service is great. i own 5 of their devices. i think it's just the nature of buying electronics. ya, it sucks and it's a pain when your mods craps out, but VS does cover the shipping both ways and the repairs. stick with it.