Spector NS5 RD

which minkin is this because the v1.5 and v2 (touch screen) have a max output of 7.5v which indicates buck converter topology only. i'm looking at both boards asmodous sells from their website, the GX-180-HT and GX-150-V2. just by looking at the back of the boards i can see their only buck just like the DNA 200/250. i just took 2 Sony VTC5A cells out from my Hcigar Vt167, both drained down to 3.2v. this is at 167w all the time for TC coils. i just leave the wattage maxed out, this allows for instant ramp up. i adjust my temp till i'm happy. let me see how low i can get 2 Sony VTC6 cells that i use in my Vaporflask DNA 133. it's pretty full at the moment but will post back when they're toast.

yep, sorry Scott, one of the board's on-board temp sensors has failed. is mod ridiculously hot to the touch? either way the board needs to be replaced. is the warranty from the vendor you purchased the mod from still good? if not, evolv warranties the board for 1 year from the date of purchase. i would contact Volcano first and if they don't help you, contact evolv and open a help ticket. link is my sig. edit... you get ejuice inside the mod? that could be affecting the sensor.

even tho it keeps your 2.34v for the CSC, the board isn't actually using that value. the board cannot function unless it sees a min of 2.5v. what's happening is most likely the board is defaulting to a 2.5v setting and just not updating the field in ESCribe (this can be seen by looking at the lowest point a cell will reach in DM). if you're running a lot of low ohm (0.09) builds, that will demand a lot current from the cells, from any mod. this where sufficient wire size, solid solder connections and appropriate cells come into play. a difference between the minikin and the DNA is the DNA will tell you more information on what's going on with your build and cells. whereas the minikin will keep error messages down to min. but they will still be there. my guess is the same is happening with the minikin, in terms of weak battery, but it's just not displaying it until it absolutely has to. this can be proven by measuring the voltage output from minikin vs. the DNA. in your case, i would just lock the res and choose consistency over accuracy. seems like you just wanna slap a build on, set temp and be done. whereas with refinement (ohms not locked), this might require you to moderately adjust your set temp after the mod has had time to refine the res. i would inspect the cell that is dropping off more sharply than other. check the sled contacts (making sure the pos and neg springs are firm against the cell), solder joint is solid (good solder flow from wire to contact and from wire to board. this also goes for the balance wire.) also the cells themselves play a large part in whether they can deliver the power the board requires for any set wattage. basically if you're getting the weak battery message early, it could be cell related, cells are too low, poor connection somewhere between cells and board. same applies for check battery, except that usually indicates only 1 cell is sagging more than the other. try rotating the cells. if the same slot has more regardless of which cell, it's a connection issue.

i'm actually more interested in board temp while sitting idle. with your DNA 75 connected, in EScribe's top left hand corner "TOOLS" - "APPLY SERVICE PACK" - open the DNA 75 service pack list - select the current firmware you are running on your DNA 75. it will reinstall the FW. this may or may not fix it. most likely not but worth a shot.

you better share that C14 with me! i don't know what it is but it sounds like lots of fun.

2.35v won't be accepted by the board. the hard cutoff is 2.5v i would set it to 2.65v post a couple shots of your soldering/wiring/sled setup. do you have the wattage at 167w when the cells are at 3.8V? i usually get the weak batt message around the 3.3v mark with my DNA 133/167 mods, when asking for the full wattage. the reason the vape gets weak is because the resistance is being refined (lowered). this is normal operation for DNA (this is done for a more accurate temp setting). you can lock your resistance as soon as you put your atty on. this will lock in the base res that is initially read. or you can just up your temp after refinement. edit. post a screenshot of DM with cell 1-2 firing when you get the weak batt message. most likely one cell is hitting the limit. let's find out which one. this could be a poor connection relating to that cell.

hi Scott. can you post a screenshot of Device monitor with the "board and room temperature" boxes ticked. you might try and re-flash the current firmware you're using.

i figured it was a dual cell therion. does the mod work using only one cell, trying it in each slot at a time? to see if you have a dead cell bay. worth a shot, takes 2 seconds and costs nothing.

if the shop is willing to replace it, i would %100 go that route.

post a screen shot of your battery settings from EScribe. also what brand/mah cells are you using?

recharge or replace the cells when they get low. you might own a therion that doesn't drain one of the cells. a defect from lost vape. edit...a way to test, place one cell in one of the two slots and see if the mod vapes, then place that cell in next slot. if it doesn't vape in one of the 2 slots you got a bum therion.

the only issue will be you won't be firing at your set wattage. it will only fire down to your soft cutoff setting. but you, your board and cell are safe, if that's what you're asking.

there could be a wiring or 510 problem. manufacturing goof on Lost Vapes part, possibly. what does atomizer analyzer read for resistance? do you have "profile name" selected in the screen options tab? it works on my DNA 60 when in temp dom. just like the DNA 75, the DNA 60 cannot display USB current. only current draw from atomizer to board.

is the watt hour set correctly? what CSV battery curve are you using, if any?

To add to giz's suggestions, I wouldn't be afraid to venture into the 500F above territory especially when it comes to SS. SS I find, needs higher temps to achieve a good vape. I usually vape SS at 520F and above but that's what I like.

like the rx 2/3.......

is the button getting stuck?

correct, meter accuracy but even if you go to town adding more plot points, it's not really noticeable on the on tiny battery icon in the corner of the OLED. what battery analyzer spits out is about as smooth as is needed. super granulairty cannot really be implemented on the 128x32 pixel screen.

if you're asking how long until the meter shows the correct capacity left in the cells, it shouldn't take more than an hour sitting idle. Are you still having problems with the battery bar showing the incorrect capacity with freshly charged cells?

do you own a DNA 200 or 250? it takes a level of understanding electronics to see why it would be buck only when dealing with 11.1v battery voltage but basically you would not need to go above that voltage. You didn't read my post correctly, but that's ok. I said many of the 2S mods are buck only, which is true. I didn't say all of them had a 6.2v limit. Most will will likely state to have a limit of 7.5v BUT that is for a very short time give the cells will quickly call from 8.4v to their nominal combined voltage of 7.4v. Evolv' s boards will give you the wattage you select until the very end cell voltage range, not for just a short time like other boards. 3.1v is the voltage at rest. There will be losses and voltage drop during the conversion, when fire button is pressed, like with any board. Under load the batt voltage could be closer to 2.8 or lower. As an 18650 approaches the 3v mark, voltage drop becomes more pronounced. Like I said, there needs to be a basic understanding of electronics before making statements like yours. Obviously the DNA 133 or 167 is not for you. You would be better off with a 3S version of the DNA 200\250 or series mechanical.

it cannot do it because it's buck only no boost. it cannot go over battery voltage, as is the case with MANY other 2S (2 cells in series) configured mods. in 3S (3 cells in series) mode you will get 9.3v max output. board price does not dictate voltage output. also, the board was designed to be used with in a 3S config, starting with the DNA 200. the only reason we have the 133 and 167 option is because a couple years ago people asked for it here in this forum. people were fully aware of the output voltage limitation when in 2S mode. their workaround........build lower ohm coils. /topic/66226-topic/

sorry Damian, you can't physically move the fields from one place to another.

gotta love overseas customer service, lol. "extra pixels are normal". you sure it's the screen itself and not loose connection to the zif socket on the board the ribbon plugs into? if you want, you can post a pic of the screen. there's debug menu that's pops up in EScribe's device monitor when you click the Evolv logo 7 times ("help" - "About EScribe" - click logo 7 times - open DM and you'll see the hidden debug menu - you'll see "Screen Disconnect" box, a secure screen ribbon will be at 0 seconds. an intermittent connection will show upwards counting.)

try re-installing the firmware. the device should show the lightening bolt when charging is enabled and no lightening bolt when disabled. as for the LED, those settings might of gotten changed somehow. when did you update the device? as this firmware has been released for quite awhile.

if you ordered directly from Evolv, you should be good to go. they all use the same large screen, except the DNA 40.