dwcraig1

Are you setting your cold resistance again after the coil is heated? If so it will use that setting as the cold resistance and be hotter than what it reports.

Try to keep it 220 C degrees or lower. If you want to use spaced coils try making the wraps closer together. I use contact coils only but many prefer spaced, your choice. Try to keep the whole coil in the air flow.

Are the first couple of hits good?

Are you cutting your wick to this length?

It looks to me that the mod maybe is jumping out of TC and into wattage mode. Device Monitor in EScribe will help determine that. Perhaps poor connections between board and coil resulting in artificial resistance readings.

Image of DNA250 non-color firing dry wick with 316L clapton coil with .5 second 60 watt boost then 40 watts. Same was done with DNA250 Color and results were similar. I had to hold firing button for several seconds before wick would show signs of burning, 15 seconds fire time. Voltage output dropped to 1 - 2 volts on both.

You should ask here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

From what I see you must have a dual battery DNA75C. If what the arrow in the image is pointing too is what you are asking about and are concerned with where the wire from it goes, it goes to battery negative on the board. If not your question please post a photo of the part.

Here is a snip of my 250C at 91% (left side) and 94% (right side), looks pretty similar to your Centaurus

If you have connected it previously to EScribe when the desired theme was present then you most likely have a back up .ecig file for it. Under the Help/Backups.

It is not meant to fix anything just info. Do this: Start Atomizer with no atty. Now start screwing in atty. Note how many turns or partial turns from where Atomizer Analyzer starts reading ohms till it's screwed in all the way.

Try using Atomizer Analyzer in EScribe to see if atty has a connection or not and post findings.

Hook it up with Escribe and see what matches up.

I don't know but could it be the profile number that your using?

Most but likely not all screen problems develop because of the ribbon getting pinched by the pressing of the fire button when the ribbon wasn't folded properly

It must be a red transparent plastic film placed over the screen as I have never seen one yet.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71411-no-taste-on-temperature-control-just-empty-as-if-nothing-was-missing-zero-taste-of-liquid-help-to-make-the-best-taste/?do=findComment&comment=935201

No that setting is not there for the C boards or their other boards either.

If completely dry the wattage should have dropped immediately to near 0 watts.

I use an old cartomizer with it's 510 positive pin soldered to the negative. It could be done with a 510 to 510 adapter also.

Perhaps this thread will be of some help for you. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/70114-full-color-rgb-led-switch-success/?tab=comments#comment-927288

As far as the total voltage , those readings are coming from the balance taps. I suggest that you open a ticket with Evolv here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Just to be sure, you got 4.18 volts each between G & 1, 1 & 2 and 2 & 3?

This is how I would most likely wire the taps, I believe that you said that you tried it this way. Maybe use a meter and verify the voltage readings in EScribe.