RealMcCoy

Hmm. I've tried twisting super tight with my drill and heating with my torch, I just can't eliminate springiness. Here is the graph in wattage

Do you only twist it lightly to eliminate springiness? I can't do any twisted or even high gauge mtl fused claptons... they are just too springy for me to work with

Yes, sorry

I'll give that a go. I can't seem to get my wattage to flatline like that, or my live ohms. 510 is secured and coil is tightened down to the max. What coil are you using? 26g SS316L?

This first graph is my puff that I saved, and the second is the puff "playing". Is this normal for replay? 433F Peak temp on puff, 444F on replayed puff. Just curious

This is what I mean... It's a cold atomizer on a hot mod - so while it reads the ohm's correctly, it thinks that the reading is done at 82F? When the board cools further, will it adjust the ohms of the coil? Or is that not how it all works? If that doesn't explain what I'm trying to ask - Let's say I had two of the same tanks with the same coil installed. I measure the ohms in the morning with both the board and the atty at room temp. It reads .7213 ohms, and 71 F. I vape on it for awhile, and decide to connect the other tank. It reads the same .7213 ohms, but now it says 82F. Will the vape be the same, or is the mod adjusting the vape for ambient temperature? I'm trying to figure out what just went wrong, because I just connected my Kayfun after vaping with my Pioneer, and the flavor is supremely lacking. I didn't let the mod cool, like in the example I listed above.

I like the instant fire at temp, though. I only take like 2-3 second puffs - pretty short. If I let the temp rise without any sort of preheat I feel like I wouldn't finish my puff before the desired temp was reached... Although I did just try it without preheat and there wasn't much of a difference - idled around 410 instead of 420. I think 28g is just too thin to really care, but I also like to vape 26g. I think the heavier gauge would be effected more by no pre-heat. By high-ish watts I meant that while these 28g coils are vaping at 10 watts, steam-engine suggests 14, and I usually end up around 15-17 in wattage mode. This is probably why I was changing my cotton/coils every couple tanks (due to blackening), but I was getting good flavor for a short while. Lol. As BillW50 explained, I was talking about the puff info graph on the default theme. It shows a different wattage/temperature graph than the device monitor does

Do you suggest letting the mod sit for awhile before reading the resistance of new coils (Letting it get to room temp)?. Like if I'm vaping one atty, and I decide to switch to another. Should I wait for the mod to return to room temp, or does it not matter? Also, do you lock your ohms? I was reading the forms and some people say lock it, others say don't.

Yeah, those are the values I use. I'm ashamed to admit I was viewing in windowed mode, and the points were only overlapping because they didn't have enough room on the screen to expand into the full graph lol. When I opened in full screen I realized how stupid I was

Thanks for the reply. I read that fruit flavors shine at lower temps, and I see most people suggest 420 to be the best temp for flavor. I did read a Vaporesso article saying the best flavor was upwards of ~480F, but I was weary about trying it, because I wasn't sure if my TC settings were even right / if it was working properly. I usually vape Wattage mode at high-ish watts. For instance, this same coil that's using 11 watts for 420F, will generally be ran at about 15 watts in wattage mode. I prefer really short, cigarette-like drags. I have tried a little bit of replay mode, but I did want to perfect TC to keep my cotton/coils for as long as possible. I might circle back to it, but will probably land on replay mode within TC like you suggested. Another problem I seem to be having is that the "last puff" graph on my mod (default theme) shows a different readout than my device monitor does. It'll tell me my last puff was 390, but on my device monitor, its showing 430ish. Also, Do people add/edit temperature points on the CSV from steam-engine, or do they just import them as-is? It really bothers me when I look at the points imported for SS316L -- how the last two numbers are just on top of each other. Something about it feels wrong

I'm trying to get a good TC experience with my new DNA75C (first one I've ever owned). I seem to get more accurate flavor from wattage mode, and I'm really frustrated because I don't know how to remedy this. Atomizer: BP Mods Pioneer RTA. 1.2mm Airflow (I have other atomizers, but for the sake of simplicity, I'm focusing on this one) Current Coil ---> 2.5mm 6/7 wrap 28 gauge SS316L Juice: 35mg Vape100 Ripe Iced Peachy Mango Pineapple 50/50 VG/PG Wick: Puffs Organic Cotton from Amazon (Also have Rayon, but focusing on cotton - again, for simplicity) I cleaned the threads inside the mod, and the threads on the atomizer. I did a thermal case analyzer, which changed the values a substantial amount, but didn't notice much of a difference in flavor. Can anyone see anything wrong from these screenshots? Only thing I see wrong, now that I'm looking, is the room temp. My room temperature is 71F, not sure why it reads it as 77F... (Case Analyzer was calibrated with room temp at 71F).