Wayneo

http://www.protovapor.com/product-category/diy-products/ for wire and 510. Gotta get that Evolv reference 510. The competition has some sweet button actuators, but have been dicking me around now for 14 days, and still not shipped my order.

@Dan I mis-read, my bad. Enjoy that mod.

@Dan thanks for making this fun, and welcome to the board. Cool, I love clue games. Here are 3. Are ya ready? The answer you are looking for is in the manual (250 datasheet, which you should read)It's on a Page # higher than 3, and less than 5. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250.pdfIt might just be, ............... (no using the dictionary), the penultimate paragraph.Your turn to guess. Nice mod.

Yo @fenderstrat, when you do that Device Monitor 'Print screen', can you put the (already requested) tank, coil and specs, as well. At the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor it shows the profile you're using, and a print screen of that profile would be just fab.

You folks might want to check out the true ratings for many batteries from the highly regarded and trusted mooch before buying any vaping batteries at all. Yours is not on his list, so just for future reference. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/ Cheers and hope you're enjoying your mods.

I'm mainly a 26g SS316L on all my mods (DNA's) and I find the exact same experience on all of them. I sorta standardized the screens, profiles, etc. on all, so I set my wattage at 75watts. Although right now I'm running some SS430 from Unkamen, and notice a bit quicker ramp up. The only thing I notice about that 28g SS430 (also from Unkamen) is that it is much springier than 316, and if I do more than a simple glow to remove the hot spots, I can deform the coil quite easily. They also sent along some Titanium, but I just haven't wrapped any of that up yet, as I'm very happy with SS being so tasteless and working fine. I also have some Ni 200 Aspire coils which came with tanks that I've never tried. I've got a 250 board on order, and will hopefully have some stabwood for it by the end of next week. I'll probably outfit it with a Lipo strictly because they have 2amp charging now, and no decent Reuleaux style battery sleds or 3D print options. One idea that has been brought up before, but not implemented, was to have the pre-heat set as a % greater than the wattage, which is a fantastic idea. Cheers man.

@Canadianvape If you trust Evolv, the board manufacturer, they say (taken from the manual) ".... relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance" If you lock the ohms you stop the board being able to refine the base/cold resistance by monitoring the coils temp against room temp while they cool, they do this for up to half an hour after going into idle to get the most accurate resistance reading possible. Locking res is a last resort for connection problems.

@Viruk, looks just perfect man. I see you have it set at 100watts, and look at the ramp up to your temp. Just freakin perfect. There are 2 different camps for TC. Set your wattage high (like you did, and I do), and let the board do its job. ORSet your wattage much closer to the actual usage, and play with punch and preheat.2 different ways to skin the cat, neither is wrong, just different. Now if you really want to see just how great it all is, down in the bottom right hand corner, there's a button called 'puffs'. Set your mod down, click that button (I usually just choose 4 seconds) and your mod will fire, as if you were taking a 4 second vape. Go look at that smooth line, and how few watts are required to maintain that temp. And with these boards (unlike many others) you should never lock the resistance (unless you have a shitty build)

@Viruk sounds like a plan, man! Knock on wood, I haven't had any battery issues.

@Chunky I'm sure the entire board thanks you.

On to the questions: 1. Has anyone experienced anything similar with new 18650s? Luckily no. 2. I have faith in the DNA boards safety features, but am I being naïve relying on the safety in the mod to protect me against a problem with this cell? Sorta. The DNA will protect you and itself, but having proven a dead cell with your charger, just buy one new one, so they're married. Married really only means they have been discharged the same number of times, for the exact same brand and type of battery. 3. Does anyone have any advice in this situation? Am I taking an unnecessary risk using that set of cells? Answered in 2. Buy one new LG HG2. 4. Does anyone have any explanation as to what was going on? Yeah, you have 1 dead battery. Cheers man, just wait till you have that new battery before enjoying your mod.

@Canadianvape Post a print screen.

Karloz, you're starting again with your garbage posts. I might have been 'sleep all fhrough history class', but I can spot you just as easily as I can spot a fake Canadian Loonie.

1.2 SP3 first which is a full install with drivers, then install 1.2 SP5a which is the latest

@dna671 Can you be a bit clearer. "I was at 75 watts hitting at 51- 55 watts" <- Using Temp Control? Also the absolute latest is sp5A. @dwcraig1 I've updated to sp5A, but in Device monitor it shows sp5 which is the same as before. Is that normal??

FFS man, you couldn't have just done a copy and paste like this Battery Capacity: 9.99Wh Soft Cell Cutoff: 3.09v Mod Internal Resistance: 0.007 Ohms Those look fine. What makes you so sure they've changed? The mod will work fine with those settings, one cannot normally brick this chip by running battery analyzer or checking the mod resistance, but with your luck LOL.

For starters, your post title could have been worded much better. You bought mods with DEAD batteries. That is a manufacturer issue. I bet they all work fine if you vape while plugged into a USB cable? The data within the .ecig file probably has not changed at all, plus YOU have the ability to create that information the best for each of your mods. The 'big/important' piece is the mod resistance (for the best TC), and the manufacturer probably checked a few or one of their mods and programmed that same value for all of them. As far as your battery setting, the absolute best one is one that you would run on your own battery. It seems like you're getting a lot of old stock from smaller vendors where they don't move much product, so they just sit there discharging. You should be hitting up the vendors for replacements or batteries at least, not bashing Evolv.

Not only fine, but on the approved Battery list from Mooch. Enjoy your device. While waiting, go watch a couple videos on Escribe. PBusardo has at least one. Mind you, there are minor changes because of the latest software, but nothing really drastic or noticeable. Big difference about these DNAs is that you should NOT lock your resistance.

@dj_g14 Once you believe it's not a board issue, Fasttech in China. When I order from them, and I'm on the East side of Toronto, they arrive anywhere from 8 days to 2 weeks later from once I see it appears as being shipped. Remember they're filling all their Black Friday orders right now. Good luck.

@fibercarbon Just a bit of bad luck. Go watch a few tutorial videos, open 'em up, change your settings, and keep your fingers crossed.

Yes.

The box works fine as is. A battery profile makes the meter more accurate. Why would you want 2 different profiles? Only 1 can be active at a time, and in order to to use the 2nd, you'd have to hook up to escribe, and load the other profile. P.S You can run the battery analyzer for YOUR batteries right there within escribe which will generate the perfect curve for YOURS in their current state. Why do you need the .ecig file? Are you saying the mod values are blank for your 'inbox', or your profiles are blank?

The majority of these problems are boiled down to a connection issue. Either faulty or loose wiring, a dirty connection, or a loose connection within the build itself.

@dj_g14 You do know that you can purchase replacement metal bodies, 510 connector and battery screw from an outfit in China (for the 75). Slow shipping. I realize that doesn't help with your board issue.

Not sure if this is relevant, but can you check your current firmware version. Bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor. The latest is v1.2 SP5. I know there were issues before this version (just with the screen battery display) but not sure if that is also what was seen by your screenshot.