Wayneo

That weak battery issue was merely a warning that was fixed almost a year ago in its latest firmware 2016-06-05. That was not a 'board issue' IMHO, but more due to Battery sag, while vaping at high wattages. For a single battery 75, I personally use Sony VTC5A. For my 2 & 3 cell mods I also use those HG2's.

Can you do a File - Save as, and post a copy of your ecig file. And what did you settle at for your mod resistance value?

@retird While you were doing that, I was checking if I could just delete my comment with this new forum software, but got sidetracked.

I have an OG Cleito. I use SS successfully. They are the .4ohm coils, with black rings/gaskets on the coil. Aspire uses orange bands for their clapton coils. What coils are you using? If you're saying that sometimes these same coils work, check for a clean 510, threads, coil on properly snug.

I dont need a full "Device Monitor" screenshot from you, but noted that so the user that asked would not think it was correct. If I thought you were playing I wouldn't have responded at all. Playing referred to what looks like standard default Evolv values after resetting the mod Cnange that drop down from 3 to 2.

Hey meng, that's not a Device Monitor shot, but your battery info shows it's set for 3 cells for starters, and your Therion has only 2. Change that to 2, and double those watt hours. Me thinks you've been playing. And check your version of Escribe

That's a beautiful resistance value for any dual or single battery DNA. Any reason you wanna be at .5? You don't wanna be bouncing off that output voltage limit. The standard Evolv or Steam-engine or TCR value material profile should work fine for that wire

Can you post a full 'Device Monitor' printscreen while firing and this is occuring. Image shows what to have 'ticked' (Include cell 3) and Power, not Temperature, sorry. Include another printscreen of your 'Mod' tab, and finally, what are your battery details (make and model).

Hey Karloz - you been on vacation?

Considering the DNA75's latest firmware is from June 2016, and there's only ever been 1 update, ... not plenty and available, he must be referring to Escribe updates only. Maybe he's looking for 'Flappy Bird' a la Joyetech, or even products that don't even allow/suport updates. That 75 is a solid board if you build within its specs.

Read through the post. There are many scattered hints and tips. Remember, this is not official. This is a working Cheat. Good luck.

@JamesVally 'Sans' - without .... Serifs - characters with those little points on them, like say Times. Arial, and Monaco (as 2 examples of a Sans Serif) font.

Definitely Sans Serif

@JamesVally You could do your part by finding the font for that text. That's not artistic or magical, and you might get quicker/better results.

Become your inner artist. Simple to use. Theme / Screen generator

Your mod will work fine as is, without a trustable battery icon. Now I don't have one of those mods, so I don't know if there's any HCigar magic that they have done. Here's a manual way. Search for your battery type here on the forum. Download the csv and note the Wh. If that value is ~8 to 10Wh, it's more than likely a single battery file If that value is ~16 to 20Wh, it's more than likely a dual battery file If that value is ~20 to 30Wh, it's more than likely a triple battery file Find the single battery value. Double it for when it dual battery mode, triple it for 3 cell mode, Most 18650's have a complete discharged value at 2.5v. So set your cell soft cutoff value somewhere between 2.8v and 3v, wherever you feel most comfortable. Now here's how to use it when you want to go from one mode to the other Go into escribe and change to your new operating mode (2 or 3), change your battery Wh setting to match the number of cells OR Save a complete backup of a 2S mode and one of 3S mode. Load backup of new mode which will already have the 2 changes required (To me this would be a nightmare to maintain) OR Screw the battery icon, change one of the small displays to show 'Battery Pack', monitor that, and only change the number of cells. Always remembering to Upload to the device after your changes. Good luck, I'm done, I've written a book. I'm sure there are some YouTube reviews out there I won't even ask how you're going to do battery management, you know, the whole marriage thing

The firmware for every device of a specific 'board type' is the same across manufacturer's. As seen in the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor. Yours should say (off the top of my head) 1.2 SP5 Software customizations (logo's, themes, materials and profiles) is where they may differ, but still will work on others by different mfgrs. From DNA 60 and higher. The DNA75 is the only board with an OEM LED. The 75 Color is the only color. Edit: During your adventure, you might only have standard/default Evolv settings for your Mod Resistance, and Thermal characteristics. Compare the values to the other post you commented on yesterday. 'Mod" Tab.

My link in Post 2 was for the Mooch rated/approved vaping batteries. Personally, I'm a Sony VTC 5 OR 5A in my single cell 75, and LGHG2's or Sony VTC6'in my multi cell DNA's.

... I thought dna's needed high amp batteries That all depends on your vaping characteristics. Lower mAh, higher Amps for those vaping at higher wattages with less battery sag. Higher mAh for longer run time. Remember the amp draw is shared amongst cells. For a single battery 75, i go higher Amps and carry a spare in a silicone sleeve or container.

Good to hear, and that lower value sounds more common. TC can be finicky, usually due to the build. I mainly use 'spaced' everything, from SS to Ti01 (single coil) without issue. Therion: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters VT75 nano: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters.

That sounds normal to me, maybe I'm missing what part of what you describe is different between the Finder's and this? The resistance value is the current resistance measured value once fired, and with a TC coil the normalized/computed value at 70F. Edit: Once the battery is removed, unless plugged in beforehand, the process restarts

Is this the same device with issues from a month ago, or a replacement? I notice from the mfgr site: "If the problem is reported within 3 months after delivery, we will repair or replace your item free of charge within a reasonable period of time. For electronical mods, there is 1 year warranty provided for chips, and 6 months warranty for mechanical parts." Are you getting the "check atomizer" displayed? What value do you get for resistance on each mod?

Hold by the edges where the cable attaches to the board, light pressure, and lift straight up

Hey @Conanthewarrior, very similar to you .......... my SS316L builds were always quite solid. I also run 1.2 SP5, and the latest escribe v2. I don't drip, and clean my 510 and threads religiously. I've checked all visible screws and none needed tightening. I have JUST started having similar issues as you. My display showing 41297F for temp, and blowing me out of TC, and wrong ohms on the display. But, I can remove them, cool, and replace on a different DNA mod, and they're perfect. Unfortunately, but so far, only occurring on my efusion, and VT133. Once removed, i'll fire to get the check atomizer warning, and go back to these mods when it's time for a battery change and they work perfectly again. I thought I was going crazy

[QUOTE=Wayneo] A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. [/QUOTE] 3 or 4 tennis ball sized loops, like rabbit ears. Mod Calibration - Watch this video. /topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012 Across my slew of DNA's, they are all .002-.007