Wayneo

You can open an 'official' suggestion to Evolv at the link below https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=5

Here's a video, it's old but still valid. https://youtu.be/pNsAHmZ-E0o?si=_xW52MhmtrTHjs1P

If you can't find them posted here you can run your own 'battery analyzer'. The only thing it does is give you an accurate icon or %, and it does not affect your working mod in any other way. Now, if you swap batteries between brands what are you going to do? 🤷‍♀️

At a minimum you should update to that version(SP33), BUT the international version which offers more features. SP33 had a much shorter timer before your mod went to sleep ~1 hour. Versions after that and the current will sleep at the 24 hours of no use. Overnight your batteries will lose .1V per cell with SP55. You can read what updates were done at each version here; https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-early-firmware-and-escribe-suite/

So why not just remove a wrap to fix it? Where are you seeing this? The coil resistance is what is read by the mod. You should not set it manually. After you figure out what you're gonna do, when the coil is back at an ambient temperature run Atomizer Analyzer and tell me how much fluctuation you see.

I hope you now realize not to do that. No idea, I think it was done by you, but doesn't matter, you see it fired at .196Ω as I have already explained.

Thank you for the earlier screenshots, it makes troubleshooting/helping much easier. I think there's a problem with how it read that .245Ω's as it's clearly a .196Ω coil, and how it read .185Ω. Did you manually put it there? Look at your 1st pic, what do the live ohms show, Look at your 2nd pic, what do the live ohms show? .196Ω and .197-.196Ω You have a .196Ω coil. The coil resistance is read by the mod. A poor connection by the trapping of the wire, or dirty connections on the mod or atty can affect the reading. BUT, no matter what you change it to or think, when you hit that fire button, the mod reads the live resistance, as it should. Your mod is normal.

What kind of material (wire) are you using? What atty? Why would you 'lock the ohms'?

I hope if either of you have the raw aluminium with black inlay you've seen VC's notice. I'll send it via PM to both of you incase it's not authentic.

Sure. First start off in the Replay profile, material 'watts'. Warmth set at 1, Punch at 5. Find the ideal watts you could vape all day. If you want it to ramp quicker/slower adjust that Punch value up or down. When you get a great puff, enable replay. You'll get a much fuller puff. Try that for a couple days and let me know what you think. Like TC, start with an ambient/cold coil. No material files to worry about or room temp. EDIT: I've been told by a most respected source those 'P Coils' will ALSO Replay if under Mod->Safety you change that option to 'allow on unlikely' using the same parameters as above.

I would certainly agree with support as they have access internally with the designers and developers. My main concern was with your puff screenshot. You're asking a whole lot from that single battery board with a boost buck converter. As you can see, your power (green squiggly line) plunges after hitting that 100 watt peak, never really leveling out. So it ends up being a weak puff after that initial burst of power. Is your main reason/benefit for using TC to stop you from going over 450°F or for 'dry hit' prevention. Your current preheat parameters does nothing. If it's for specific, I can make suggestions for a better puff. If it's for dry hit prevention I can help you with trying 'Replay'.

And what did support say? What was the cause? Can you post screenshot of this profile, and describe the coil and atty please.

Hi hopes, but doesn't sound like a board problem. Hopefully SV looks after it. Bill, I just looked it up, over there 😉 while complaining about my 2 POS Paranormals. It was Jan 5, 2019, my 4s Lipo running SP38 I said "I have 2 Non C LiPO's that maintain their voltages for weeks. My one 4S LiPO Color mod drains about 3% over a 24 hour period of not being used." Which was only .1V per cell. Now that we know of that long period before sleep, I still run the latest firmware so the mod doesn't re-read all working parameters like SP33 has to.

His DNA75C can actually boost to 100 watts with the right battery setup. If your mod has boost (sometimes called soft, normal, hard) you can do that with yours. Part of the beauty of the DNA with escribe is that you can actually see your mod performance, and have a good one year warranty on the board. Now if he could get Stainless Steel Mesh (VandyVape) he could use Watt boost and replay, and never get a dry mesh puff. I hear they are pretty nasty. No matter what you do, enjoy your mod.

It says right there in the product description "...............The Odin 100 is equipped with the DOVPO chipset" You'd need to measure from the center of the bottom actuator to the center of the usb and if it's about 8mm then a swap would probably work. IF you want to use Replay or temperature control then you might want a DNA. If you're just a straight watts user ... save your money.

Welcome @LacocoRoco but if the link you posted is correct, what you have IS NOT a DNA mod. If you can find your 'bypass' mode that is NOT a feature on any DNA or 1A charging.

Welcome Ronnie. 🖐️ None of the moderators run Linux so when you wrote 'updates menu' that's not there for Windows or Mac systems. Those 2 words stopped me (and probably others) in my tracks. New board firmware will/should only be in the International (INT) versions of the escribe suite.

So many BEST profiles after 8 years. Use the search bar ↗️

If you're talking the LED between the fire button and the screen, no. Some fancier themes will do that in different ways such as a sliding bar as the battery depletes, or a battery icon that changes color.

There are pictures in this link. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71319-how-to-change-a-screen-on-lostvape-paranormal/?tab=comments#comment-934609 The cover hinges at each side where the ribbon goes underneath the connector. Go to the opposite end, and lift/push the cover towards the ribbon. I think I've used a fingernail or tweezer at the edge of the cover. It will stand vertical to the board. Make sure to slide the new cable in straight and far enough. When you push that cover down, you'll hear/feel it click in.

It's that easy once you get to the front of the board. It's late, I'll write it up in the a.m for you. Or user jacobevolv has pictures if you search his content. What kind of mod?

You can get new screens at stealthvape or modmaker. Both in the UK. All DNA color screens are the same.

What version software is on your PC? Have you tried different cables? Do you know or heard of any other users of this SXK device that have used escribe with theirs?

Escribe -> safety tab.

It should still be under Manufacturer warranty. I'd return it to place of purchase or ask Mission. It does not sound like a board problem.