Wayneo

All batteries will sag when you're drawing current from them. That amount varies between both battery types and rating, how full they are, power requested, at rest voltage, etc. IMHO your batteries are not even in question at this point. IMHO, yes. Brief, low watts to see a dull and even glow a couple times till there's no machine or hand oils left on them. SS gets damaged from long high wattage burning bright like sun. Following my directions using your mod are better in this regard.

Themes can definitely fuck things up royally and on the sly. There are some real gems and some real shitty ones. Same thing for material profiles. And that is why I always talk/say 'stock evolv' and Device Monitor. In the future you might want to include a screenshot of the Profile used. Just ensure the 2 'Replay' checkboxes are not enabled.(I don't think they are enabled) AND I hope you did not lock your ohms on any of this It would be in your best interest to run everything stock for now. BTW every TC controllable coil fluctuates with Atomizer Analyzer. So for me that is like starting from scratch with everything. For the second time TEMP PROTECT AS SOON AS YOU PRESS THE FIRE BUTTON IS A SIGN OF RUNAWAY OHMS, MEANING FIX YOUR BUILD. One last thing for future screenshots, please uncheck those 2 down in the Statistics area, I never asked for them and it muddies the display 🙂

Great first post @Navi and those screenshots are always helpful/key. 👍 Just a few questions and comments. I can tell you've been lurking by your inclusion of that extra vertical line on the first 2 puffs. Normally we like to see it near the beginning, lowest voltage point (like you did) for battery sag, and in the middle of an puff for abnormal working conditions. Usually with mesh, ensuring both sides are evenly and fully inserted are vital. Following that, a low glowing (10-15 watts to burn oils off, and ensuring it's heating properly), then sitting for 10-15 minutes so everything cools to ambient temp. After all that it is time to remeasure the coil ohms before or after wicking. You should 99% of the time answer 'yes' if the mod asks if it's a new coil if prompted. You mentioned 'support' twice. Was that Evolv support? You should never hard set the ohms. That value is what the mod has read. I think you meant .22Ω and .24Ω I have always vaped a tank or two in straight watts profile, (no boost) to get a feeling for what/how to setup my TC parameters. Can you do that and tell me what's a great watts for you? One last comment for the future. Can you drop/uncheck those last 2 boxes down in the Statistics area as it muddies the display.

Thanks again for those screenshots. So I asked; #1 is the KFX in watts - were you actually puffing? I see 2 puffs. In the first (in the first, left puff) do you see how the 'live ohms' crosses below the 'cold ohms' line. Off the bat that says the coil was still a bit warm. But based on the numbers shown, you were still around the ~250F range. I can see that maybe if you have a tight airflow or possibly super high nic so you're pulling gently. #2 and #3 I believe you did the TC puff #3 actually before the straight watts of #2 by the Total puff count of each. So for #3 is the KFL19 in TC - now the temp is ~360F using the stock evolv material profile. 17 watts was not to get to the 'temp set' so midway you relaxed the puff as shown in that red line dropping, as well as the live ohms, and the 17 watt limit never dropped. Puff #2 is KFL19 in Watts - Clearly shows ~360F using the stock evolv material profile. After saying all that you're no closer really to 420F. Can you tell me why you're dead set at vaping at 420F? You must realize that's the limit, hence the 'protected' from going over your limit. Although you can vape at the limit, it was never Evolv's thought, as you get a ramp down in watts and a weaker puff once at the limit. Looks like coil/atty issue to me, but you say it's all perfect on two attys. There is also Replay, whereby you using your SS or unknown wire can reach a puff you like using watts and 'watts' material, then enable/set Replay. That offers dry hit protection, but no temperature shown. Much simpler to get as good if not better results than TC. Let me know if you at least want to try that and I can help you.

OK. Thanks for that screenshot. Just perfect. Something does not jive. Are you sure you're using Stainless Steel? Still spaced, and did you do a dry (low glow)/burn to ensure it's heating up from the middle to outer edges? TC should not be hard or difficult to setup and get working. instantly temp-protected is also a sign of runaway ohms from your coil. In escribe, in that profile, down at the bottom you'll see 'Atomizer Analyzer'. With a cold coil can you tell me how much it fluctuates over a minute. It should only be a few thousandths. That 1st puff showed that your cold ohms are actually lower than measured, but at less than 200°F you should not even get vapor, much less 'insanely hot', so I agree with you on that point. Can you go to just your straight Watts profile, re-measure the ohms, and vaping in straight watts, find the value that feels good to you. Then post another screenshot like before, using straight watts. No boost. Do you by any chance have another atty that you can use, to test in TC?

Luckily for you, you don't need escribe to get it out of stealth mode. Here's the link for a downloadble pdf with all the non color key combos. Once you're out of stealth, you can check it all. Escribe not required. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71559-cheat-sheet-key-combos-for-non-color-mods/ I can only think of 1 DNA250 that allowed 2/3 batteries, so yeah, you're stuck with what you've been using unless you have a friend or library nearby.

There are very few things you need escribe for with these color chipsets/boards. There are some full featured themes that have just about all the options, mind you they are 20+ screens. You really only need any special 'material' files like NiFeXX or other TC capable that are not already on your mod. And the latest software update. Some have friends that will allow them to use their PC/Mac, or even a library. As far as a sideloadable app, WE might allow a link but doubt we'd allow the app itself. We'd need to have Evolv's blessing. Good luck in your quest. 👋

Welcome 👋 I'll start by saying you should watch a video or two about DNA mods (longer DJLSB Vapes) so you get a better understanding overall of these mods and lingo. I'd prefer to see a Device Monitor screenshot, please. Start Device Monitor. On the left, click these checkboxes only. Power, power set, temperature, temperature set, cold ohms, live ohms. Take a puff or two, pause Device Monitor. Post screenshot of full screen (link in my signature line)

So by using the datasheet wiring diagram, yes you'd solder in a 5 pin JST XH connector AND do your jumper for the missing cell 4. Here's a good photo https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69730-places-to-buy-dna-250c-enclosures-for-custom-builds/?do=findComment&comment=925064

No. That has never been a feature of any DNA board. 3rd time moving your posts out of the Reflex area.

Open a Help Desk ticket. Link in my signature line. ⬇

It looks like that black piece on the 510 connector is burned away. I could be wrong. But if you can clean everything up and resolder a new wire to the 510 positive under the cap you can get it working as is. That black plastic piece is probably there to stop juice ingress to the board. That other wire can be soldered anywhere on the outer SS body, just score (rough up the area) beforehand as it's a pain to solder SS. Edit: I cleaned up my wording and removed wire colors as I am not sure what was where.

That is pretty nasty looking. In my opinion you should reach out to Lost Vape with those pictures. If you have soldering skills, you might want to reach out to the Evolv Help Desk instead (link in my signature line) and see if they might have an LV 510 connector for that mod they can send you. Good luck.

Well, I see two options. Check the wiring of the 510 connector and at the board, or return it to place of purchase. EDIT: With the atomizer removed, can you press on the 510 in the mod, and do you see it move down and back up?

If you start escribe, then Help -> Backups, you can restore to before your theme change. You can check if the error disappears.

No I do not.

NO, but you can take all your complaints there yourself at their Help Desk. Click the link in my signature line.

All color mods can show/implement dynamic temperature OR ANY FIELD YOU WANT. It is just not a feature of the Evolv default theme. IMHO it is a relatively trivial update by clicking that one option to enable it, or find a theme that already does. All color mods do temperature control very very well. There IS tcr setting via escribe.

I think what you are looking for is the 'update while firing' option. You can search ↗️ that phrase for answers in the past. Below is post where I talked about it clearly. It is CPU intensive and you will probably need to modify your current theme to show that. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71493-dynamic-temperature-display-for-vicious-ant/?do=findComment&comment=935685 All 'Dominant' did on the B&W mods was show the 'Temp Set' in Large to make it easier to adjust by temp, not watts. I have had to move this post to the proper area, out of the 'Reflex' area. I have deleted that DM you sent me without reading it. You don't need to do that.

What firmware version is on your mod? or, update to the latest 'INT' version. Link in my signature line

My only thought is Yes!, try using Session Mode.

@SmokeyX Out of all the TC materials, SS904 and SS316 and rises the slowest. And 'temp protected' can come up from runaway ohms (which can easily be a build issue. Check your 510 positive on your atty is snug and your coil leads are under the hold down screws not squished to a side). What atty is this? @SmokeyX And what do you answer?

@SmokeyX You'll need to do a few things. Just stick to 1 of your mods. Plug in your mod, start escribe. Unlock the resistance and let it sit for 15 minutes. Describe the coil. Spaced or contact, material. Start Atomizer Analyzer and over the course of a minute tell me what it shows for the resistance. It will fluctuate. How much does it fluctuate, from what to what. Using your mod, remeasure the resistance. Start Device Monitor. On the left, click these checkboxes only. Power, power set, temperature, temperature set, cold ohms, live ohms. Take a puff or two, pause Device Monitor. Post screenshot of full screen (link in my signature line)

... including resistance lock, which is a massive thing if you use TC on stainless steel coils <- was asked by @SmokeyX I replied -> Actually it has NEVER been promoted or required with any DNA mod (unlike other brands). If your coil has been prepared properly (no hotspots, secured, solid 510) you should not need to ever lock the resistance. @SmokeyX new comment -> That's interesting. Hasn't been my experience. On a variety of SS316 coils homemade and pre-made and including round wire, that are typically from 0.3 to 0.4 ohms, I've had problems with 'temp protected' coming up before i can take a second drag on three DNA boards (two 75Cs and my current 100C). Maybe it's because I vape at a really cool temp, 130C or so, and because stainless resistance rises relatively quickly. On all three boards, if I don't lock and I'm lucky enough to not get a 'temp protected' message, I am asked constantly if I'm using a new coil. If I lock the resistance at the beginning, that's never an issue. Any ideas about why this is happening?

All I can understand is 2 words. Windows and USB. So here is a generic answer. Reboot PC. Try another cable and a different port, plugged directly into your PC.