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BillW50

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Everything posted by BillW50

  1. See also: /topic/66182-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894583
  2. Yeah I am not very found of the 510 first used by Joyetech which the rest of the vaping world seems to have adopted. I think the connection is way too small, the threads are too fine, and the space between the center pin to the outside ground is too small. And pushing 200 to 250 watts (and probably far more in the future) through the 510 is just ridiculous. So I am not surprised about all of the common problems that pops up with our 510 connections. Sorry to say, but we need something better.
  3. Did you try dancing naked in a ring of fire during the full moon yet?
  4. Yes, they say your batteries will double the useful life out of them.
  5. Using rebuildable attys, right?
  6. Temperature sensitive connection it sounds like to me. I too have seen this behavior before on even DNA200 mods.
  7. I have eight Subtanks myself and use six of them regularly. I had zero problems with connections with the RBA when I make sure the RBA pin is tight and the wire terminals are tight. I did see a snapshot of somebodies Subtank 510 pin had the plating flaking off and they had connection problems. But none of mine had done that.
  8. The DNA200 when ran in two cell mode (133 watts) is also 6v tops. If you want to run at 6v @ 75 watts, you need a resistance no higher than 0.48?. I don't find that to be a problem. My old Smok M65 I could run up to 12v and I never used anything higher than 6v anyway.
  9. Yeah I would get a hold of Evolv for repair. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add
  10. I have two Reuleaux DNA200 and two Triades myself. The only lipo DNA200 I like are the Hotcig DX200 because you can swap out lipos super fast (faster than swapping 18650s).
  11. Whenever I have seen one cell read low and it really isn't, it's is the board. And I have also seen the one reading low, the DNA200 will be draining that cell as well. So I would pull out the 18650s.
  12. I use Lightning Vapes Ni200 28AWG Tempered and K.Bee Vapor Ni200 28AWG Non-Tempered and they both work great.
  13. Ever noticed your Kanthal wire starts to rust? Taking an eye loop and looking at used Kanthal, you can see micro fractures in the wire. And inside you can see it is loaded full of rust.
  14. I totally agree with you and VapingBad.
  15. I have 13 DNA200 (two Reuleaux DNA200, two Triades, four DX200, and five VT133) and none of mine ever did that. But I don't look at the screen when I am vaping anyway. I would need one of those top screen mods to see the screen.
  16. Well do you have a multimeter? If it has zero volts there then shorting the docking port by keys, coins, etc. isn't going to do anything. I find most USB connections are usually dead on the receiving end for the power connections. But it won't be dead if you plug in the USB cable to power though.
  17. Nope, you don't need to use Kanthal wire curve as a material. Using VW mode, the wire curve is ignored so it doesn't matter what you use. Yes you can use VW by turning off temperature protection.
  18. I get leeching from SS. There is something really bad in SS. I dried burned one and I got this horrible smell coming from it. I ran it under water and thought maybe it will be ok. Wicked it, juiced it, and vaped. That horrible smell, well it tasted exactly like it smelled. I tried all of my SS attys I was using at the time and yes, that taste was just barely detectable, but it was definitively there. Now I won't vape with the stuff. Plus SS is just horrible to use as TC wire. As the TCR value is way too low for good temperature sensing. Too bad I am retired. As I would run an energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy on it to find out what that smell/taste was.
  19. I always thought they were in the order in which you add them. And if you can delete the ones on the Device while used by the profile, you are better than I. If a profile is using a material on the device, mine won't delete. Although computers won't let you delete something that is in use either, so it all makes sense to me.
  20. I've seen that many times before even when the room temperature is 68ºF. It especially gets up there just before the current starts to go down because it is almost fully charged. And I am still running the February firmware.
  21. James thinks the cells are unbalanced. Although you say your external battery charger says both batteries are at 4.2v. Well you could try swapping the two batteries around. If cell one still reads 4.2v and cell two still reads 3.9v, then I bet both batteries are at the same voltage. I hear many reports about e-liquid getting on the board especially at the bottom part that reads the cell voltages (normally known as the balance connector) can cause the cell voltages to be read inaccurately. Ethyl alcohol works well to clean boards. Although near 100% (200 proof) might be hard to get. Clear vodka is usually 40% (80 proof) with 60% water and many have said this works well too. If you need more options to clean, just ask.
  22. Yes that isn't good. You could try: Soft resetHard resetReflash the firmwareIf e-liquid leaked inside it needs to be cleaned I can't think of anything else offhand. Otherwise it needs to be returned to the store or open a ticket with Evolv.
  23. Why can't you recharge by USB? Does it show charging symbol on the battery bar? Do you have a meter to check your battery voltages externally? Maybe if you have an external battery charger, that displays battery voltage.
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