BillW50

Sometimes I had success with Scotch tape.

There are two ways to use temperature control: Power Dominant - Use just like power (wattage) mode and set the temperature as high as you ever want to go and you regulate it by wattage. Here the preheat (punch) is really helpful.Temperature Dominant - This is just the reverse of Power Dominant. A good place to start with the wattage is about 50% higher than you normally would use wattage for what you are vaping. Now regulate the temperature for the vape you want. Preheat (punch) is pretty useless here since your wattage is doing what preheat would do anyway.

Ah okay... well the explains the negative temperature.

The first time it showed a negative temperature and it never did that again in the video. I don't know what that is about. But the temperature counting up to 200ºC is perfectly normal. As it is reading the actual temperature of the coil(s). The temperature protect and the three flashes are perfectly normal too. And you can turn that off if you like in EScribe under the Theme (tab). Temperature Protect -> Don't Show And the error messages can be changed in the Screen (tab) Error Flashes

Works for me. Contact Evolv and find out what they say.

The DNA75 doesn't use mah for measuring battery capacity from what I understand. So even if Evolv added it to EScribe, it would be meaningless.

In EScribe -> Mod (tab) -> Change Charging Mode to Maximize Puffs.

I dunno... I have ten DNA200 mods (a eleventh one probably be here tomorrow) and none of mine has blown a fuse yet. Why did you have one that did? I also run mine about 20 hours a day and often chain vaping. I don't usually charge internally, but swap batteries and go. One thing I noticed that I don't do is some use 200 watts for a preheat. Do they really need a thousand of a second of ramp up time? If a fuse is going to blow, that would be the time it would blow.

Well I don't have any DNA75s yet. But my two cell Samsung 25r DNA200s I can vape 15ml per charge and my three cell Samsung 25r DNA200s I can vape 23ml per charge.

Are there any chip manufactures that has manufactured any buck/boost regulators that can even operate at 2.2v at 75 watts?

Thanks very much, Spanky.

I should add that a low battery voltage or a poor battery contacts will show virtually the same symptoms. So generically it could be either or both.

Well if by 50%, you mean the battery voltages are like 3.70v... well in high amp usage... I consider them dead and needs to be recharged. If you are only running 15 watts or so, you can use them down to 3.0v without a problem and you can use the rest of the 50%. It is just battery sag becomes very high when the battery voltage is this low (<3.70v).

Yes this is a common JST-XH connector. You can buy them at many places. If you need help, just ask.

Evolv uses these labels for the balance connector (GND,1,2,3). GND (black) 1 = cell 1 (read from GND and 1) 2 = cell 2 (read from 1 and 2) 3 = cell 3 (read from 2 and 3) [red]

Oh VB is talking about if you are going to have more than one battery, he says doing it in series would be better than parallel. Yes... well... kinda. There are pros and cons of using one or another. But he is right about the pros of using series batteries vs. parallel batteries. As far as watt hours goes, either way is exactly the same which is quite interesting. EDIT: Oh VB beat me by 30 seconds.

I'll go look to see what VB said...

Another way to look at it is instead of one battery supplying 75 watts (it's going to be actually more if less than 100% efficiency), each battery is only supplying 37.5 watts each.

Running a DNA75 with parallel batteries means half of the current is supplied by each battery. That means less battery sag and yes, less weak battery messages.

Yes of course. Although I was thinking of during normal operation. I believe one of the videos mentioned the reason why 18650s doesn't swell like lipos is because they are wrapped too tight to swell. And if it is physically impossible to swell during normal operation like 18650s, you give up additional capacity.

If you are looking for big, how about this one? Specs: Minimum Capacity: 5200mAh Configuration: 3S1P / 11.1V / 3Cell Constant Discharge: 10C (52 Amps) Peak Discharge (10sec): 20C Pack Weight: 331g Pack Size: 142 x 49 x 22mm Charge Plug: JST-XH Discharge Plug: XT60 www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__66475__Multistar_High_Capacity_3S_5200mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html

I saw a video on youtube showing how much lipos expand and shrink through charging and discharging cycles. And it was surprising quite a lot. Either in that same video or another one explained why 18650s and other canned cylinder shaped batteries don't. The videos must have been over a month back, because I can't find them in my history.

You hated DOS? It was sort of UNIX like. CP/M was sort in between the two. Then there was RT-11. Sort of DOS, UNIX, and CP/M like. Another GUI OS back then was Digital Research GEM. That was going pretty well and then Gary Kildall dumped it and supported GEOS.

Ah... GEOS for the Commodore 64 was just released and then later in '91 for PC. GEOS was kicking Windows butt until Microsoft added 32 bit support for Windows and GEOS foolishly stayed at 16 bit. Then Windows even started to replace all of the GEOS machines.