BillW50

No that isn't normal. Here are the Mod Settings I use for my five VT133s.

I measured the Mod resistance at 0.003, but I left my two at 0.006 for now.

You know there are a lot of things you could use. And I am sure you will got a few recommendations. Although if you are truly interested, I would search over at: http://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php And see if they suggest anything (I am sure they do). This is a forum for electronic engineers (which I am one). But I am sure hobbyists and others are there too. And you don't have to be an EE to have a passion for electronics. As anybody that has experience is what I trust most.

I am only going to post this in case others read this later, as I am just about positive you already did this. But after setting the Mod Resistance (Mod tab) to zero, please upload it to your mod. Otherwise it doesn't count.

Let's see if I have it right. With and without the fuse, the mod is dead. And using a wire instead of a fuse, it lights up saying Warranty Service. Is that right? If so, the fuse is one of your problems it sounds like. I be interested what the cell voltages shows once the fuse is replaced. And what the raw ohms shows with the Atomizer Analyzer with and without an atty. In any case, it sounds like the board needs to be repaired.

If you have a multimeter (even a cheapo one), you could ohm the fuse.

Hello wbward. I don't know about waiting for the DNA250 or not. But the Lost Vape Triade gives me the longest vape time per charge and reliability than everything else I own. And I believe Protovapor does mod repairs. http://www.protovapor.com/product/repairupgrade-services/

Temperature Protect error isn't really an error. It just lets you know it has reached the temperature and adjusting the wattage to keep it there. It annoys the hell out of me and thank goodness you can turn that off under EScribe's Themes (tab). Saying yes to a hot coil just confused it. Selecting no would have worked since it already read that coil before. But no problem just let it cool down and it will adjust if the ohms is unlocked.

Isn't graphite suppose to be conductive?

Just leave it on the USB for awhile. That will cause it to start balance charging and even them out.

Why are you killing a perfectly working DX200 (I have four of them with 11 lipos plus three more on the way)? I also have five VT133 (DNA133). As far as 18650s and people complainning about 40 to 50% charge left, they can't deliver high wattage. I have experienced this time and time again and I just assume half of the capacity is only useable. The rest of the capacity is only useful for low wattage users like MTL vapers. Some have claimed that lipo packs are different. Their battery sag isn't so much and you can use virtually 100% of the capacity. This is true, but... 18650s halfway point is at about 3.70v per cell. A lipo like a FullyMax, runs down to 3.70v per cell and it is very close to dead. It isn't like 40-50% like the 18650s, but like 5% capacity left. So this is my observations anyway.

Sounds like a good idea to me. By the way, if you take apart that VT133 any further, slide a piece of paper between the box and the screen. So the paper shows in the window. As if you slide it out without, the screen can get scratched.

Yes I know, I have five VT133 myself. That extra board is for reverse battery protection. It would be totally useless on the Panzer. So you only need the DNA200 board itself. But the bad board I would contact Gearbest or Evolv and get it repaired or replaced. But will it work fine in the VT133? It probably would. And wow! That is a cool serial number on the VT133.

So true Zrat78.

Yes.

Well I wouldn't have switched it to two cell and especially tried to charge a three cell lipo. Can an electrician repair this board? Not likely. Yes you can swap the DNA boards between the VT133 and this one. Although now you are going to have problems with the VT133. Probably one cell might drain faster than the other.

Yes.

You could try soft/hard reboots, but I doubt that will do anything. Then try a reload of the firmware in case the one on the DNA is corrupted. Then contacting Evolv or wherever you bought it at for repair or exchange.

Well there are soft reset and hard reset to try. Although I don't think they will help one bit. As removing the lipo should do this anyway. Then there is reloading the firmware in case the one on the DNA200 had been corrupted for some reason. Otherwise then it is down to contacting Gearbest or Evolv. As it really sounds like it is a board failure.

Well with the DNA200, it is easy to save the whole profile at a time. I saved all eight of mine and transfer them to my many other DNA200s, one at a time. Doesn't that work going to the DNA75 too?

What is selected for a battery type under the Mod (tab)? Is Lithium Polymer selected and 3 cells?

I have two RX200 (since January) and two Reuleaux DNA200 (since February) and I have used mod guards with them and have been very careful. And so far the 510s are holding up just fine. http://www.kidneypuncher.com/kp-mod-guard-5-pack/

Perform USB Recovery Charging Open up the Device Monitor, Diagnostic, Advanced, and Perform USB Recovery Charging.

Well with a fused Clapton, the outer wire is like 15 times longer than the inner wire. If they were the same wire, the outer would be 15 times higher resistance than the inner wire. That would lower the whole thing just a tad lower than just the inner alone. Not too much of a difference. Although the difference between a thicker wire titanium (which is a low resistance wire anyway) with a smaller 15 times longer (very high resistance) Kanthal, as far as temperature control goes, it won't even see it.

Ever seen one of those in person? Damn things are really tiny. I bought the silo box which is a clone. And when I saw it in person, I am so glad I didn't buy anything else. To get a FullyMax 900mah in there, I would need a shoehorn. Notice there isn't any air vents? Because there isn't any room for air.