BillW50

Oh in my example above, I forgot to tell you the correct answer. It is .006087 change per 1ºC. Which is the same as your TCR value.

Sure, but the TFR graph isn't truly linear. So you must take an average of it. So you need to know how much the resistance changes per 1ºC of temperature change. You should take an average throughout the vaping range. Although if the TFR graph is pretty linear without curves, they all should be virtually the same anyway. Take this Ni200 csv file for example. "Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -58,0.58 68,1 212,1.48 302,1.78 392,2.08 482,2.38 572,2.68 800,3.44 Oh that csv file is in Fahrenheit. That just complicates matters, let's use Centigrade one... Hmm... I don't have one. Anyway convert to Centigrade. That second value is how much the resistance changes from 20ºC. Like at 800ºF it changes the resistance by 3.44 times from cold resistance (68ºF). So from any two points you can calculate how much change per 1ºC. And that is your TCR value. Stream Engine will automatically will tell you the TCR if that is where you got the csv file from anyway.

I thought you might think I was crazy after I posted it.

Well are you going to use this single coil build SS on a Kayfun? And what size wire are you planning to use?

I know how to do it on the DNA200, as I don't have a DNA75. But with Temperature Dominant, you select show temperature and it shows Wattage.

Okay great. Although if it gets too hot again, adjust the temperature down. If it gets too cool, turn up the wattage. Hopefully that will take care of it.

I was just looking at your SimonWismecDNA200.ecig file and you could be set too hot (most Profiles are 500ºF or hotter) and your wattages are generally around 60 watts (that might be too low). And you're generally using 1 second preheat at 200 watts. It doesn't need to be that high (this has nothing to do with your problem though). Probably 100 to 120 watts would work out just fine.

Speaking of such... this is a long shot... but if your e-juice is really thick (high VG), it might not wick fast enough to keep up. This would be easy to find out. Don't vape so much and it gets better. Vape more and it gets worse. Another thing I can think of is maybe your wattage is set too low and your temperature is set too high. So the more you vape, the hotter it gets. The less you vape, the cooler it gets. Also are you a mouth to lung (MTL) or a direct to lung (DTL) vaper? Or don't you know?

Well I have two Reuleaux DNA200 and mine are fine. Both of mine were programmed back in January I believe. You know that Get Information button on the General tab? The only thing to mention about the Reuleaux is the short 510 socket. Any 510 longer than 4.6mm can damage it. But I figure you would see a change in cold ohms if that was it. You don't crank everything down and flush with the mod really tight do you?

Hi smlemmon. You know when changing coils, tanks, etc. that if the coils isn't at room temperature, it throws the TC way off. If the coil is warmer than room temperature, the TC will be too hot. If the coil is colder than room temperature, it will too cool. How long do you have to wait for the coil to get to room temperature? It depends on a number of factors. But usually 10 minutes at a minimal. Although it could take 30 minutes or longer. I just threw this out there in case you didn't know this.

Hi smlemmon. And your Ni200 coils does the same thing? I can see SS316L having this problem, but Ni200 too? And does it act up more when you left it alone for 10 minutes or longer? One thing that might help with each tank. Whether it is working or not, write down what it says the cold ohms is for each. Now when it changes, recheck to see if the cold ohms stays the same.

Yes you can lower the charge speed (or turn it off) if you want through EScribe. The secret is in the Device Monitor and that Diagnostics button. See where it says Set USB Current Limit. To reset it back to default, select Reset USB Current Limit.

Or if you swap batteries with your DNA200. If you do, you might want to leave the resistance locked. As the DNA forgets what the cold resistance is the instant you remove power. Having it plugged into the USB power would be ok unlocked swapping batteries. And if you lock it just before swapping batteries, that doesn't count. Those of us who knows about this never figured out how long it has to be locked before it will remember. But it seems like it must be hours before the battery swap.

FullyMax Pack 3 of 3 (black) Charged at 10.8v @ 1A 55 minutes finished charging, reported capacity is 796mah. (charged to 4.10v per cell) Before charging unloaded Pack = 9.80v After charging unloaded Cell 1 = 4.08v Cell 2 = 4.08v Cell 3 = 4.08v Pack = 12.23v

You must have read the same article that I did. http://cleantechnica.com/2014/09/19/recharging-lithium-ion-batteries-rapidly-harmful/ Also Professor Jeff Dahn (Dalhousie University) also mentions this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxP0Cu00sZs

Charging at lower rates is considered to be fine, just takes longer. It will draw 5v @ 1A if the USB source can supply it. Otherwise it will only use what it can supply. Usually connected to a computer, it will draw more like 500ma. At the battery end, drawing 5v @ 1A will give you about 12.6v @ 300ma. So it will take about 3 hours to charge up one 11.1v @ 900mah lipo. And yes, the DNA200 is perfectly safe to charge with.

They are using the box as ground. Sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't. You could loosen the 510 and clean up where the nut grabs the box. Then check the screws on the board. At least one should have a good ground to the box. Or you can add a ground wire to the 510.

Sounds like Chinese manufactures are where the problem is at. Even protovapor has many DNA75 in stock.

Courtesy of VapingBad Looks good to me.

As for forcing cold resistance read... while I haven't changed mine, but you might want to play with EScribe's Mod (tab) Manufactures Settings (button). There you will find the Ohm Lock Range. The default is 25%. I would think if you set that really low like 1% or even 0% (if that will even take), it will ask you if it is a new coil or not virtually every time.

You can show the charging screen differently than not. In EScribe under the Screen tab, you can select what shows while running or when charging. Also further down see that charging slider? Make sure it is set high enough to see it. Probably 40% or higher should work fine.

Really? I see plenty of DNA75s. ecig.com - HCigar VT75 (in stock) focalecig.com - SMY SDNA 75W TC VW Box Mod (in stock) angelcigs.com - Vapecige SD Mini 75W DNA75 (in stock) 101vape.com - HCigar VT75 (in stock) vapenw.com - HCigar VT75 (in stock) myvaporstore.com - HCigar VT75 (in stock) vapordna.com - HCigar VT75 (in stock) vapordna.com - SMY SDNA75 TC DNA 75 (in stock) gearbest.com - SMY DNA 75W TC Box Mod (in stock) gingervaper.com - Boxer Mod V2 DNA75 (in stock) And there are plenty more.

Oh no! Groundhog day all over again!