BillW50

OMG that is horrible! By the way, that center screw uses left hand threads says DJLsb Vapes. So to tighten, turn counterclockwise.

Oh I don't believe your Kylin is unfixable. I am sure there is a way to tighten it up somehow.

I use a few Geekvape Zeus X Mesh which the deck is almost an exact clone of a Kylin Mesh RDA. Although I never tried SS mesh in them yet and I probably should. Although if you are thinking about buying a Zeus in solving your problems, I wouldn't and especially if you have a lot of Kylin strips. As they use different size strips.

Even if there is no screw on the 510 to tighten up. They must have screws going to the base to hold the positive piece in place with an insulator. It could be on the deck or screw(s) underneath the base. I'm now looking at a pic of a Kylin Mesh RTA and that screw dead center on the deck might be also used to hold everything together. See if you can tighten it some. Don't overtighten, as the insulator could crack. If that isn't it, it has to be something that holds it all together. I don't think they would just press fit everything and requiring it to be insulated too.

What type of RTA do you have? Some (most) can be tightened up. Most can from the bottom of the 510 pin. Generally there is a screw in the center that sometimes can loosen up.

I've never seen a DNA ask new or old coil unless the coil (or mesh) was briefly disconnected. That tells me there is a connection problem like @Wayneo had stated. Also SS material will increase in resistance the hotter it gets like many has noted. So that part is fine. Although at vaping temperatures it is usually 15% to 20% increase in resistance. Yours is higher, so that is really hot and is probably in the high 500°F or higher. There are two different types of Temperature Protect messages. One vapes normally and pops up Temperature Protect once the coil/mesh reaches the set temperature. This message can be permanently disabled in EScribe. The other type of Temperature Protect will seem dead when firing. This protection kicks in when the resistance changes too fast or too slow compared to what the DNA thinks it should. This could happen if the material type is the wrong type (TFR/TCR settings) or there is a loose connection. You can enable Replay for any Profile with EScribe. Although Replay won't work correctly unless the coil/mesh changes resistance with temperature.

Great advice @zark, except the DNA75C doesn't have that option. Отличный совет @zark, за исключением того, что у DNA75C такой возможности нет.

It is the latest public version. There might be a beta though.

You are getting a weak battery with a fully charged battery? Ouch! I thought the battery was something less than 40% charged before you get a weak battery message. dwcraig1 has the same XvoStick DNA60 that I have. It is the newer one piece one that comes with a DNA60.

True, anywhere there is resistance, you are going to have a voltage drop. And the higher the current, the higher the drop. So cleaning the contacts was a good thing. But the contacts are not the only thing that has a sufficient resistance to matter. The battery themselves also has internal resistance which also causes a voltage drop. Generally speaking, the higher the amps that a cell can handle, the lower the internal resistance (but with some small exceptions). And a 0.5v drop is pretty common for the cells we use. Although the amount of watts you draw is going to make it better or worse obviously. Another thing that can add resistance and cause a voltage drop is the battery wiring. Some manufactures use a thinner gauge of wire than they should. Also the type of material the battery contacts are made of makes a difference too. Some use gold plated contacts which tends to be better and offers lower voltage drop. So what is the battery voltage (not firing) and the amount of watts that you are using when you get the weak battery error?

Some themes have an info selection that you can check. If not, EScribe's Device manager will tell you on the bottom right.

INT stands for International version. US stands for US version which is compliant with the FDA regs. For a DNA250C configured for two cells, I don't believe there are any operational differences. Just the US version will only go up to 250W when using 3 and 4 cell mods (200W with 2 cells). While the INT version goes up to 300W with 3 cells and 400W with 4 cells.

This isn't the first time I have heard the "Too Hot" error pops up when the board temperature reaches 100°C. I probably heard it in one of pbusardo's videos. It's also the same temperature many CPUs start to underclock.

Custom support is who you call when you want a special board made to your specs. Which costs tens of thousands if not more. I don't know why you would notify them for a board problem? I'd use the forum (free) or submit a RMA form.

Warranty error means that the logic voltage regulator is running out of spec. Check the pack voltage and/or check the USB voltage. One or the other is probably under 4v.

Not a bad feature to add IMHO. But I know of nothing besides using the theme editor and modifying your theme or download one which already is using a dark theme. There seems to be plenty of them here.

I've just looked at Jacob's docs on how to change a screen on a Triade. And the backside of the screen isn't even close to touching any chips (it is raised high enough away), so that isn't a possibility. Also Jacob shows how easy it is to change the Triade DNA250C screen. I wish all mods were that easy. That would take me 2 minutes tops to change out the screen. Thanks for all of the details that you have provided. And wow! Three bad screens so far. And the mod isn't used in extreme climate conditions either. That just about eliminates everything except the board itself might be hard on screens. Sure the easy thing would be to just replace the screen again. But to put a stop to this screen replacement routine would be a board replacement IMHO.

There are a number of puff counters. Total puffs, Replayed puffs, TC puffs, resettable puffs, resettable Replayed puffs, and resettable TC puffs. The former ones cannot be reset.

I don't think I would judge by one DNA250C. I have 25 of them and none of them ever gave me any problems. x3 Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250C Standard Version x3 Lost Vape Triade DNA250C (300W) x2 Lost Vape Drone DNA250C x2 Think Vape Finder DNA250C (300W) x4 Lost Vape Centaurus DNA250C x5 Dovpo Odin DNA250C x4 Dovpo Top Gear DNA250C x2 Dovpo Riva DNA250C

Well just to let you know, I have 25 DNA250C mods and I had zero screen failures. Three of them are Triades. Might be just a coincidence, but all of them run Frank's theme with 10 sec on screen timing. And I rarely go over 50 watts, so the board rarely ever gets warm. Are the ones with the screens failing have the backside of the screen touching the chips themselves? Maybe the screen is acting like a heat sink and blacking out?

Good deal!

How old is your EScribe? Older versions knows nothing about the DNA100C.

Yeah I don't know much about using nic salts with the Reflex. I believe most people are using freebase nicotine and usually not higher than 18mg (although you know best if you need more). The Reflex is very efficient at delivering nicotine, so you don't need so much. The first color is the power level of the puff. You can change by cycling through them by pressing the button. That later color is the battery level after the puff. You said it is green. That means it is all charged up. I don't know anything about adding more Profiles or using that hack. The only thing I did is with EScribe is to lower the power on all Profiles by a small amount. It seemed too warm to me but I usually do RDL vaping. There are QR codes on the boxes and a sticker on the pod that you can scan with a cellphone and it will take you to the test results for that pod. So that is something to check if you think you have a faulty pod. I'm still on my first pod and it has over 8000 puffs on it without a single burnt taste. It's not as flavorful of course using it that long. But I wanted to see how long it will last. I'm using freebase nic at 12mg. Mine doesn't pop or spit, but I keep mine upside down if I am not using it. Plus you rarely have to wipe down underneath the pod either. Here, I added my settings which probably won't work for you (but who knows?).

That sounds more like a bad screen to me.

https://translate.google.com didn't translate it for you? It did here.