BillW50

I don't mean to sound insensitive or anything. But if you want to use TC, SS904L is one of the worst materials out there. Since it barely changes resistance anyway while heating up compared to other SS alloys. Thus it is going to be frustrating even for the best of us. And your atty must have really solid connections if you want to use something like SS904L with TC. And some attys are well known for having stability problems with TC. Some manufactures even sandblast their 510 threads, which is a huge no-no for TC. You're using a Zeus X right? I have a few of them. But I never tried TC with them. Maybe I'll experiment a little and see how stable they are.

Is it still set on unlikely coils?

http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz Shows the TFR of SS316L and SS904L have very similar curves. Except SS904L changes resistance much less. The TCR of SS316L shows 0.000879 while SS904L shows 0.000734. Hopefully @Darth vapes has the right material selected.

Try dubious or unlikely coils.

Another thought occurred to me @AlexeyK, as it is hard to believe one of these switches started acting up. Maybe if you reflowed the solder to the switch and the corresponding chip just might solve the problem.

Umm... @AlexeyK, I don't want to scare you. But when I sourced components like this in the past, they won't even talk to you if you just want to buy one. They will only talk to you if you purchase something like 5000 or more. Although if nobody offers a better solution, I may have found something that may work ok that you only need to buy in a lot of 20 or so. You can purchase something under the search of "Momentary Tactile Push Button Switch". I've seen them on Amazon and I am sure eBay probably has some too for about $9. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Liyafy-Switch-3x4x2mm-Momentary-Tactile/dp/B07TB62N4T If it were me, I'd probably remove the switch from the board and try to disassemble the switch and repair it. You also could try contact cleaner, but the switch is waterproof, so it probably wouldn't get in there very well if at all. If that didn't work well either, I'd probably grab a switch off of one of my defective boards I have lying around here. I'd guess that 99.9% of Evolv fire switches should last a lifetime. So I wouldn't worry about an used one.

https://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-reflex-pods/

Here's what the Double Barrel 3.0 board looks like. It sure looks like it could be using PWM. Maybe someone could tell better than me.

Another thing too, is having hotter and cooler spots with your coil. So you get vapor produced at different temperatures. This is kind of hard with wire coils since you can easily get hot spots that are just way too hot. Although I noticed some mesh coils, are hotter and cooler just a little in some spots. Some mesh designs are better than others for this. And probably why some like mesh better than wire coils. I tend to like mesh better for that reason. Something else that can help too, is two or more coils. As unless they are exactly identical in every way, they are not going to be at identical temperatures. Same is true (and probably more so) for mesh as well.

Just by controlling the ramp up time, so as to heat up the coil slower and thus hitting all of those different temperatures slower while the coil heats up. And the only way to do this is by lowering your wattage. You also can vary temperature by not vaping with a constant draw, but by varying it a bit. Yeah well, easier said than done.

The material shouldn't make any difference in wattage mode. And maybe I could explain PWM this way (and we don't really know if the Double Barrel 3.0 is really using PWN). But imagine if you could fire and release the fire button on a DNA mod like 32 thousand times per second, that's what PWM it is actually doing. The DNA boost setting just applies more voltage at the beginning of the vape to heat up a cold coil faster. Depending on the coil, you may not even need it. Since many simple coils heats up virtually instantly anyway. The Double Barrel 3.0 doesn't sport any boost from what I can see. How you might get a more flavorful vape from PWM is because instead of a solid voltage being applied like the DNA, which gives you a very steady temperature at the coil. PWM switches on and off so much, the temperature also jumps up and down a bit. And depending on the juice, could produce a more flavorful vape.

I can't see how it could taste different. As both the DNA and non are just putting out a straight DC voltage as an output (with boost off). There are some non-DNA (rare) mods that doesn't work that way and putout pulse width modulation (PWM). Those doesn't putout a straight DC voltage for wattage, but pulses a much higher wattage and then switches to 0 watts and switches on and off thousands of times per second to simulate adjustable wattage by averaging the width of the pulses. Maybe that is what you like. I looked at the DB3 board and it is tiny. And it very well could be using PWM. PWM mods will sometimes produce a high pitch sound that some can hear when firing. And sometimes you can feel the vape pulsing. I can with my VAMO, which is my only PWM mod I own. It is seen as a poor man's wattage control and very cheap to manufacture.

I never noticed any difference between DNA mods and non-DNA mods in wattage mode when vaping, except some (maybe most) non-DNA mods will putout more power than what you have them set at. So to get the same vape, I have to set them at a lower wattage than I would with a DNA. I have one SXK SEVO-70 board that you can set it to 10 watts and I'm sure it is hitting over 30 watts. That is the worst one I have for being off.

I grabbed a DNA250 mod that I never used, connected with USB and I got nothing. I can connect it to EScribe and program it, but the screen never lights up. Put batteries in it, the DNA250 fires and the screen lights up just fine. I did hear the DNA250 will power up the board with just 3.2v before. But I don't believe it will fire.

I thought we were talking DNA250C, sorry I just removed batteries from an Odin DNA250C, connected the USB and fired (I do have an atomizer connected). And I get the error "Check Battery". I did it through EScribe too and fired from the Device Manager and the same thing. Disconnected the atomizer and its the same "Check Battery". If you wait until the screen turns off, it will wake up on pressing the fire button. Yours and your friend's doesn't do this? This one is running SP45 firmware. I do have some DNA250C and DNA250 boards stored away and I can check those later if you like. But I would expect the same thing.

The extremely dim screen sounds odd, unless the brightness is adjusted down of course. Not firing on USB power alone is perfectly normal. The USB doesn't have enough power anyway for vaping. Besides, the USB is only 5v and to fire a DNA250C you need a minimum of 6v if I remember right. If you connected up batteries or a power supply, pressing the fire button would then error with check atomizer.

Whether using Power Dominant or Temperature Dominant, is the one that is dominant which you use to tweak your vape up and down to tailor your vape. To make this easier on the DNA60, 75, 200, and 250, you can select Power Dominant or Temperature Dominant through the Temperature Dominant toggle in each profile. All this does is to swap which one adjusts with the up and down buttons on the main screen. As John and Daniel mentioned in the video, some vapers adjust TC to slam the coil straight to the set temperature. Then they adjust their vape by adjusting the temperature up and down. It seems to me like 95% or so TC vapers vape this way. It is also well known that the majority of vapers doesn't like vaping in TC because it doesn't vape as satisfying like Power mode does. I feel this is the reason why. But you can get the same satisfying vape in TC as you can in Power mode. As in Power mode, you tweak your vape by adjusting the power up and down. In TC, you can do the same thing instead of slamming it straight to a set temperature. In EScribe, the DNA75C, 100C, and 250C lacks the Temperature Dominant toggle. Because it is just as easy to tweak either power or temperature up or down from the main screen.

Yes, that is it, #6.

Here is a video of James explaining Power Dominant, Temperature Dominant, and Replay. I set the video to start at the 29 minute mark where he starts to explain it. And it only last a few minutes so you don't need to watch the rest of it or the beginning. Unless you want to of course.

Yes! This is called Temperature Dominant TC. The temperature goes straight to the set temperature and that is it. Another mode under TC which I find more interesting and satisfying is Power Dominant TC. It vapes like Power Mode does, but has a temperature cap and dry hit protection. As the airflow as you draw varies per puff and thus the temperature varies thus the flavor notes of the juice peeks out individually at different temperatures. Meaning you get a more flavorful vape. The cold ohm reading is the resistance of the coil at room temperature. It needs this value to calculate the correct temperature when the coil gets hot. It only knows what the cold ohm value is when you attach a cold atty on its first read.

Yes, you can use Replay in wattage mode. But the material has to change resistance as it heats up. Don't forget in TC mode, you can preheat with either by temperature or power (wattage).

You need the latest service pack (SP27).

Yes it is. It is the newest addition to the DNA line. Although the website hasn't been updated yet.

We all do it all of the time.

Absolutely.