Spector NS5 RD

the solution is a new screen. i've had a few oleds' do that to me. hard to say what causes it. i can say when the matrix is exposed to oxygen, that's when the screen starts to die. usually creeping from one side to the next, until the entire screen goes black. you gotta think out of all the oleds made there are going to be a few that fail. we just don't want one of them to be owned by us.

you can get a 5 pack of tp4056 1 amp micro usb charging boards from ebay for around $3. you can piggy back them on the output to get 2 amps. that's what i use.

good question, when you find out post it here if you find the answer elsewhere. pretty sure it's an 8 pin ribbon o have no what kind of driver the passive matrix oled is using.

same here. happens once in a while when hooked to my tablet. someone can correct me if i'm wrong but i think the dna is negotiating between the source to see if it's possible to get more JUICE! greater than .5 amps. which it's programmed to limit itself to, .5, when connected to a computer's usb. as not to brown out the other usb ports on your comp. or it could mean our devices are going to short out and blow up, lol . i dunno for sure, but that's my best guess.

try someþing run atty analuzer on your subtank. most subtanks are garbage for tc. unstable. i had three mini st's one of em works good for tc. someþing with the design of em is wrong. what gauge is your ni? how many wraps? i'm guessing yoir base res is closer to .1 something and not .218. which would be loose conn somewhere.

temp sensor is located by the usb port. super tiny.

yes once you start to go over 4.20 volts you start damaging the cells. if the efusion is still under warranty send it back. i understand you have to pry up one of the carbon fiber panels, which could be damaged in the removal process. but ultimately you're overcharging your lipo. what is each individual cell voltage in escribe?

most likely a 1-2.2 micro henry inductor, but i would contact evolv first before doing anything to the board. inductors don't just burn out. they would have to be sent an excess of power to blow the wire winds. all they are is wire with a certain thickness and number of winds. what makes you think yours is bad (open circuit between inductor terminals)?

the mosfets don't get terribly hot and neither do the inductors. but i've only had my finger tips on them when vaping around 40-50 watts. i can't speak for how hot they might get at higher wattages.

i have a board from when they first came out. two boards from around the middle of when they came out and a board made in december. all work fine. weird, i dunno who or what to blame for boards going kaput.

i see board screws half backed out. what's holding your board tight to the face plate? is the battery doing double duty of holding the board in place? looks awesome by the way. too tumz up!

he has the heat sinks on the two inductors. the the black square chips are most likely switching mosfets.

hey Focus, can you throw up a quick diagram of how you wired the VR in relation to your application. did you buy something like a LD33V voltage regulator?

yea! give me free samples. must have free samples.........feeed me!!

ya that'll def heat the f... out of your mod. NO GOOD. read through that link i posted

when you rewrapped your batteries the wrap at the positive end is interfering with the positive connections on your reuleaux. the reuleaux is picky when it comes to certain battery wraps. some work some don't. rewrap your batts and make sure the positive end is nice and open to make good contact with the mods positive terminals.

do not just throw a tank or any atomizer on and run battery analyzer that's asking for trouble. here read this thread first before attempting to run it. /topic/65611-topic/?do=findComment&comment=886989

i just typed 10 in there for you to see where it goes. if you look on my battery curve you'll notice the watt hour is actually 28.XX. That screen shot (purely for demonstration purposes) is for my triple 18650 LG HG2 reuleaux. all my other dna200's with lipos are set at 3.09v for the cutoff.

this is what should be input for your watt hour field or 9.9 using the calculator. either one will be ok to use. just making sure you don't have the wrong number in there.

where did you input 900? at the watt hour field in manufactures settings under the mod tab? 900 would be telling your dna 200 you have a 900 watt hour battery, lol. take a screen shot of this 900 number in whatever field you have it in. and post it here. i dunno if youre using the watt hour calculator and using that number or what, but 900 would be the mah of the lipo, which would equate to 10 watt hours using escribe's calculator.

^^^^^if you can pull an entire package deal, i'm guessing minus the lipo, for $100. def count me in.

i've had batteries lipo and 18650 alike work fine for a day or week then all it takes is one deep discharge (below 2.5 volts) and it's garbage. or they're just bottom bin and wouldn't of lasted long anyway. it happens. there are a bunch of sites that sell the vt200 replacement battery. www.myvaporstore.com being one of em.

900 to 700? in the watt hour field type in 10.08. that's what i got when i ran battery analyzer. that seems to be more accurate. i'm almost positive the lavabox uses a fullymax 900 mah lipo. that's also the same battery i ran the battery analyzer with. i recommend running batt analyzer for yourself at an avg wattage you vape at for an accurate battery meter. i have noticed sometimes my devices will never get to 100% when usb charging. i fire the mod once while still plugged into a charger and that kicks the charging cycle back into gear and gets me to 99-100%.

i just commented on your youtube video. looks like your screen is very dim and completely goes blank when you press the fire button. make sure your screen brightness is set accordingly (above 50%) for active, idle etc. at least for the time being. if that doesn't work then your screen isn't connected into the zif socket completely or your zif socket locking flap is open, or your fire button is hitting the screen ribbon, damaging it.

i dunno dude. i'm not great at math. if it's working for you with turning your temp down, up, sideways great. call it good and vape on. i know with ss the tcr is so low the board has that much less of a tcr to regulate temp within. can make the vape inconsistent. make sure to lock your ohms with ss because of the low tcr. and spaced coils are friendlier. the latest escibe is a beta version so it's not an automatic update yet. but everyone's using it. in a sense the board is kinda guessing at the temp of the coil, but through resistance changes in the coil hence the use of a TCR.