Spector NS5 RD

do you have an older version of escribe? make sure youre running the latest. i can enter that value on my escribe. so my guess is you need to update.

have you tried a new battery? sounds like a crap battery. if you tried a bunch of usb recoveries and still no luck, it's probably a safe bet to try another lipo. that's what i would do. my two pesos. all of this is on the assumption your solder joints are 100% on the jst-xh and the mains.

i'm using the csv file from steam engine's wire wizard (304 ss). a little high on the tcr value but works good enough for me. i'm hearing 0.00092 is the correct/most accurate when it comes to 316.

^^^^^if you have an accurate temp probe, one that plugs into a good multi meter, that should work. stick it in between the coil, maybe wrap a tiny bit of cotton around so it doesn't short the coil out.

i know it's Christmas and all but what happened to the occasional john, james, brandon, and nick pop in? maybe after the new year we'll see some more activity in regards to firmware changes/feature changes etc. at least i hope...........

what do i think?! whére can i get one? and how much?

in escribe, what you're inputing under manufactures settings is not mah but rather the capacity of the lipo battery in terms of watt hours. i ran battery analyzer on the vt200 and got 11.27 watt hours. that seems to be closer to the actual capacity of the lipo the dna can ACTUALLY use. just throw my number in till you have a chance to run batt analyzer for yourself.

1.) it is a necessary fix for the longevity of the screen. however i've heard wismec has resolved the ribbon issue on newer units. can't confirm tho. 2.) for the mod resistance it'll most likely be very similar from mod to mod. i just kept what wismec had put in for mod res and case thermals. you can test your mod's resistance and case thermals on your own, if so desired. battery watt hours will very from battery to battery. you can just type in an approximate number but if you want your battery meter to be truly accurate to your vaping style, it's suggested you run battery analyzer at your avg vaping range. ex, you vape mostly in the 40-50 watt range, run battery analyzer at around 45 watts. 3.)if you have six 25r's for example, i wouldn't run batt analyzer on set b, just a. that's me tho. once again, if you want your batt méter to be super accurate, then yes you would want to run batt analyzer on any set of 3 batts going into your reuleaux, regardless even if they're the same brand mah etc. 4.) the dna1000 will be able to do your taxes at the end of the fiscal year and will also incorporate a flux capacitor for portable time travel.

depending on whether you get a good board, which im sure you will, reuleaux dna 200. if possible. battery life for days. love mine. been working flawlessly(no pun intended). 28 watt hours of fun with three LG HG2's.

i dunno i was wondering the same thing. i played around using both. both work fine for whatever wire you're using. as long as you have the correct tcr number, the vape will be just as good as a csv file, IMO. i know with a csv file it differs from a tcr number in the fact that it's not linear. a csv file can have slopes etc. for a wire material that is not a linear tcr. i think nickel has a non linear curve. i'd say in theory, the csv would have the greatest accuracy. however, the tcr number input seems easier to do, in terms of convenience.

is the actual screen glass cracked? can u post a pic? if the glass is cracked more than likely your screen will start to die. "the creeping black death". evolv doesn't repair entire mods. they'll just send you a new board when you send them your broken one, desoldered from the mod itself. i have heard of evolv taking in entire mods for repair, but that's rare. best bet is to contact your vendor and see if they'll replace it for you, even though it's your fault. good luck in your endeavor.

does your version of escribe have the "look and feel" adjustments under the theme tab? if not d/l the new escribe update and the new firmware should be inc'uded with it. im horrible with navigating through pc's. i am pc illiterate. lol. i don't know why it says no file for u. maybe someone else can help u.

page 1 of this thread. first top download 2015-10-21.........

Here you go. I put a plug between the base and atty so you don't have to spin the whole setup onto the mod. Screw the atty in, plug it into the rest of the rig, and start the test. https://instagram.com/p/9JsRgnCwWv/?taken-by=dogmods[/QUOTE] Those look like they are wired in parallel. If that is the case it would come out to 4 ohms. One would have to put three end to end to get the desired .25 ohm. [/QUOTE] they are wired in parallel, yielding .25 ohms. if you wire loads in series THEN you multiply resistance. series would yield 4 ohms in this setup, not parallel. in your drawing you have three one ohm resistors wired in series which would a three ohm load.

does anyone know if the lavabox has the same problem as the reuleaux and early hana v200's ? screen ribbon getting caught under the fire button damaging the screen etc.?

the 30Q is 15 amp max continuous drain. you should try look for something at least in the 20-25 amp range for the dna200. like the lg hg2 you mentioned. you'll be ok tho with the 30Q's as long as you are not using them at crazy high watts. good luck! with your new reuleaux hope you like it. i like mine.

imo its not all that clone-y. different UI, no escribe, no profiles. i think joytech just took some pointers from evolvs circuitry, like the three cell deal, balance charging, and 200 watts. just my thoughts on joytechs board.

AMDtrucking, where did you get those heat sinks from? shoot me a link if you bought from an online store. thanks

i pulse all my ti coils. i cup my hand over them to see when then they start to glow a very dark red from the inside out. i strum the coil or coils with a screwdriver till sed coil is doing so evenly. 10-12 watts max, when pulsing. you make em glow and when they cool they're a light powdery yellow, you killed your ti coil. blue red and golden are the safe colors i've been taught to look for after pulsing. your device monitor graphs look good to me tho? this past month i have retired all my ti coils and am now building with nife48/52 you can fire it in wattage or tc mode like ss but with a higher tcr (more stable than ss) than ss. love it. predictable easy to work with high resistance per foot, which makes it great for dual coils. check it out.

^^^^^yes.the zif socket flap is super thin. it can snap off, crack etc. dont hulk it. and definitely dont do it in the dark when yer drinking yer choco milk.

heres the answer. your watt hours are set incorrectly. under the mod tab - manufactures settings - and check what number is in the field for watt hours. 23.31 is the calculated number, but i recommend you run battery analyzer for your specific vtc4's. 3.6 volts is not dead for an 18650. 2.5 is dead. enter anywhere between 2.8-3.0 volts for cell soft cutoff. please do ur self a favor and this entire tnread. help u get knowledge. /topic/65604-topic/

authentic mxjo's? mxjo's are rewraps. most likely of lg hg2's. did u run battery analyzer or just use the watt hour calc? that's the best way to get an accurate meter, is through batt analyzer. glad to hear u got a good set up going after two months.

well i hope i don't get sniped for posting this but, the Yihi sx mini ml class is out. they have a program similar to the dna 200's escribe. sxi-q it's called. adjustable tcr, temperature compensate, and some other goodies. maybe that's more your style. i personally own four dna 200's and love em all. all work flawlessly. none go to work with me tho as i do hvac. that's where my poineer4you ipv d2 steps in. small dependable, ni and ti. does all i need for out in the field. edit....contact evolv if your vendor fails you. they'll do what they can.

i just copied and pasted directly from facebook. those arent my instructions. but i understand what you are saying. i amended my thirteenth post anyway. hopefully it'll make people think before consulting on their warranty. i'm guessing where the ribbon is epoxied to the screen is where your problem lies. sucks man, i feel somewhat responsible for posting those help photos etc. i am sorry. maybe evolv or protovapor can get you the new screen they are shipping out with the 200 boards.

turn your preheat down to anything less than a 100 watts. even 0. preheat doesn't play well with ss. at least in my experiences. oops thought this was ss. it's not sowwwwy.