Spector NS5 RD

you'll be be running it without the things i mentioned. i don't quite remember how long it takes......but not 4 hours. 4 hours sounds like case analyzer's time frame. i think took about an hour? i was running at a decently high wattage tho. i'm thinking 1 and 1/2 hours maybe 2 to run it at 40 watts???? could be wrong tho. report back when you're done running the test or if you have any Q's.

lol true! it's snowing right now here in PA. just don't let your reulaeux get snowed on! even if you have a little fan that plugs into the wall, point it at the back with battery door off, so it blows on the batteries. but this is all most likely unnecessary if you run battery analyzer at the default 40 watts. you'll be fine. don't let me scare you. that's just how i do it.

when i ran battery analyzer at 80 watts on .29 ohm load i got 11.27 watt hours from the stock 1300 mah lipo HCigar uses in the VT200. i recommend running battery analyzer for yourself, as your WH's may vary.

when i ran battery analyzer i was running my .29 ohm load (velocity with 4 loops of 22 gauge) at 80 watts. the atty itself gets very warm as do the batts and mod but not as much. i also had a 12 volt cpu box fan laying around, so i used that to cool the mod down. do you have an ego thread adapter or a 510 heat sink? i also used one of those to raise the velocity off of the mod so the heat from the atty wouldn't transfer to to mod. rule of thumb........if the mod or the batteries are too hot to hold stop the test.

you can leave it at 40 watts. it's close enough to your vaping range to not make a difference. just make sure when you run it don't walk away from it. keep an eye on your device as sometimes things get very warm ie batteries, mod, rda. at the end of the test it'll ask you if you want to use these results just click yes, or accept, i forget exactly how it's worded. also make sure your batteries are fully charged before running batt anaylzer.

i make four loops of 22 gauge kanthal in my velocity clone which ohms out to .29 . here's what mine looks like. more loops means it dissapates heat faster. have you read through the thread on how to run battery analyzer?

no this screen will NOT work the ribbon cable pin out has way too many connections.

in order for your charge to go from 9% to 100% i guarantee it goes through all of the in between numbers. you're probably just not catching it, sleeping. for the watt hours, 33.3 is the correct calculated watt hours for three samsung 30q in series configuration. you can put 33.3 in the capacity field BUT that's being optimistic (but absolutely fin). it'll be closer to 28-29 watt hours. you should learn how to set up and run battery analyzer. that'll make your battery meter as accurate as possible.

what's yer first question? "is it supposed to show it to me when i look" what are you asking? if you have the battery percent in one of the three fields in charging screen it will slowly rise when charging, albeit VERY slow with a triple 18650 mod charging at 1 amp divided between three cells. and as long as u have your charging screen brightness above zero. the answer to your second question, no you get three fields to play with for now. maybe in the future there will be a feature to cram more stuff on the screen.

first link at the top of page one(2015-10-21). it's still considered beta, but everyone is using it with success. /topic/66731-topic/

best bet..........read through the threads here in this forum on the proper way to run battery analyzer, then run it at your avg vaping wattage and that'll give you an accurate batt meter and should charge to 100% most, if not all the time. mine charge to 100% after running the analyzer. also run case analyzer and do a mod resistance test (all of these tests are explained in this forum, do some reading, it'll help). all these analyzers are to make your dna board more accurate with the battery and the enclosure it came in.

can you drill out the broken half of the screw from threading, then re-tap?[/QUOTE] I would need about 1.2 mm drill to be able to use a M1.6 tap after, I only have a Dremel pillar drill and the because the screw is a lot harder than the body and 1.6 mm drill bend easily I don't think I could do it. And there is not enough screw showing to grip.[/QUOTE]that sucks.........maybe modcrate will take pity on you?

lol, glad you got it working. that's a funny pic though, you gotta admit. any plans to incorporate the bottom inside the mod?

can you drill out the broken half of the screw from threading, then re-tap?

+1 for zivipf's nife 52. using a dual build in my goblin mini. great in tc or power mode. easy to work with as well.

hey VB, how long from ordering to shipping notification?

@lollercaust if your board is still within the 6 month warranty and you have de-soldering skills yes they'll replace your broken board.

Thanks for the reply......you may reply to this when u will be free. I have read and view the DNA200 data sheet portion relevant to "Fuse" is reproduced as under: Fuse Because of the energy and power stored in the battery, the DNA 200 includes an onboard 25 amp SMT fuse. The fuse is located on the underside of the PCB near the B+ battery terminal, and is labelled “Fuse” In normal operation the fuse should never blow. However, in the event of an error or short circuit on the board, the fuse will protect the battery. Should it need to be replaced, the fuse is manufactured by Schurter , part number 3413.0332.22 Replacement is accomplished by de-soldering the blown fuse from the board and soldering on a new fuse. No i dont know, i even dont know what are the general reasons of blowing the fuse. I have found a automotive fuse with an online vendor, which is described as: Features: Fuse Current Rating: 25A Voltage Rating DC:32V Picture: Will it work ??????????????? [/QUOTE]there's a few people here in the forum that have used automotive blade fuses. they do work. just make sure it's no more than 25 amp rating. but your best bet, if your board is under warranty, have evolv replace the fuse for you.

ss has such a small TCR the mod struggles to maintain a certain temp. because it has a small margin for error, it'll bounce around like that. the mod has to try and maintain certain temp within a very confined, short resistance range of SS. try looking at a graph when you run ni200, (it'll be even smoother than your nife build's graph) since it's tcr is so high, .006 the dna has loads of headroom to fine tune the temp, which makes it a nice smooth line in device mon.

try something for me, take three different batts and see what they read in escribe. also, what kind of batts are you using that are giving you those voltages? i've heard efests can be more miss than hit when it come to playing nice with the wismec. worst case senario, when you dropped it, you jarred a wire loose somewhere between the balance circuit. basically what i'm saying is something isn't making connection somewhere. whether it's your batteries making poor contact with positive part of wismec's battery sled or it could even be the grounding screw wismec uses for the main negative from the batts to the board. (gold plated screw under white foam plug in back underneath cell 1 on the batt sled. edit.......when you dropped it did it bend and push the battery sled in one direction or the other? with your battery door on are there any noticeable gaps....top....bottom? is it hard to close the door, now that you've dropped it heres the battery orientation...

i'm not knocking your soldering skills but try and reflow those balance pinouts on the board for your jst connector. some look a lil janky and possibly a few cold joints. it's super hard to tell by pics alone. you could have some cold solder joints. i have no idea what kind of soldering equipment you have so.......u using an electronics safe flux? you should if you aren't.

mine does that as well with no batts installed while connected to escribe. it's normal, nothing to worry about.

you're not the first person to describe this failure. best bet is to RMA the board asap to get u back to

heres my guess......the relo's reverse battery protection rings on the sled are keeping your batteries from making good contact. and when you dropped it, that made the problem worse. some 18650 batts work bettr than others in the relo dna 200. you can take all the batts out and when reinstalling them, push and spin the the batts towards the positive connection of the sled, to seat them, making sure they are seated correctly and making good contact. does that make sense? go in escribe and check each cell voltage (check all three boxes for each cell and the pack voltage box as well). spin your batts and watch the each cell voltage. if they fluctuate while spinning, maybe think about diff batts. there's hacks out there that involve shaving down the plastic circular positive lip portion of the sled, but i don't recommend that. bye bye warranty. i dunno what kind of batts you're running, but i'm using lg hg2 and he4 batts. i hear sony vtc's also seat nicely in the relo's sled.

even tho it says it's not connected to escribe, try to force a firmware update. worth a shot. since your board is only 8 weeks old, it's still under warranty. open a ticket with evolv, and RMA the board.