Spector NS5 RD

i just received the same exact tool to test out all of my dna 200/75 mods' internal resistance. it works very well. as for the the question mark it means that your IR is very low around the 0.002 or under mark. i would stick with the readings the tool is giving you rather than guessing at a number. just know not all SS 316 is created equal. it varies greatly from vendor to vendor. i would try a few different curves or TCR's before giving up on the 0.002 IR. you could have a dirty 510 creating a false high base resistance. post a screenshot of device monitor while firing the mod in question with a SS build. make sure power, temp, live and cold ohms are ticked before firing. don't lock your resistance either. let the dna board refine your resistance. it does make a difference.

welcome to the forum levivapes. i plan on doing the same with my VS RDNA 40 mod. the board will fit inside with little to no modifications. however, There is one main concern that presents itself when transplanting the 60 into the rdna. the 60 is escribe capable, the 40 is not. if you want to be able to use escribe, you would need to connect the data pins of the 60 board "somehow" to existing female micro usb socket that is mounted on the VS daughter board. the daughter board has all of the regulatory buttons on it, the 2 amp charger, reverse battery buzzer and finally the QI wireless charging circuit. so it is doable but requires some rerouting and adding some charging and data lines. another option is to set the board up with all the profiles etc. that you want, before you install the board into the mod. then leave the 60's data pin outs open (not connected). the mod won't be able to connect to escribe but will be already set up for any wires or profiles etc. this is my least favorite option (i will not do this option, i use escribe too much not to have it) but would be the easiest way.

welcome to the forum markace21. you have to go into the escribe program from a computer and change your screen display options. you can't do it from the mod, sorry. once you download the escribe program you can set the device up however you want it. i recommend that you watch the escribe tutorial video first before using escribe. be sure to post any questions you might have, here.

it shouldn't be drawing more than .5 amps when connected to escribe. you also have no cell voltages. you could of damaged the board while replacing the wires, can't say for sure. i do know for a fact the dna 200 onboard charger will NOT draw more than 1 amp while charging, ever, so that's a cause for concern. take it all back apart and double check your wiring and solder joints. also check the board for any missing/damaged components. can i ask, why did you feel the need to change the wiring?

if you look at the DNA 250 board (back side), you can see the fuse is the first component then followed by the reverse battery protection mosfet. sso if the polarity was reversed the mosfet wouldn't close the circuit which SHOULD protect the fuse from popping. that's how i see it. edit......as for the balance tap connection, i'm not entirely sure what would happen if the polarity was reversed.

how did you measure your mod resistance? .012 is quite high. i would start there. between all of my mods, the internal res is somewhere between .002 - .007. i used the copper plug from smoke free mods. have you cleaned your 510 out to make sure there is nothing shorting out inside of it as well. also make sure your coils aren't shorting out in the atty (coil wraps touching each other or shorting directly to the rda body (gnd)) . spaced coils are what i use for everything anymore. what happens if you DON'T lock your base res?

not exactly sure tread. this wasn't a common problem with 200/250 boards. information is limited on this topic in this forum. if you really want to find out i would open a help ticket with evolv. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

register? i keep my receipts from board/mod purchases. every time i had to send a board in to evolv for repair or replacement i just attached a copy of the receipt or a CC of the email invoice with the RMA form. i never registered anything, that i know of from evolv.

there's this post from James.... /topic/66013-topic/?do=findComment&comment=893258

did you use the kanthal preheat csv in the link i posted? it works. evolv won't release a FW update for power mode preheat. they stated that a while ago.

it's not just you. that's how it is. as for your dismal 1.666 wh's is this with a 26650? those batteries are less than great. i'll never get a 26650 mod. 26650's cannot handle the current demands for vaping, especially at 70 watts , like what you have the test set to.

read through this thread, there is a profile someone created to give a pre heat to power/watts mode.......... /topic/65540-topic/

you need a computer that has the escribe program installed on it. then you need to connect your mod to the comp and open up the escribe prog. click "device monitor". when the device monitor window pops up tick all of the battery options then take a screenshot using the snipping tool or whatever you use to take screenshots. then post it here.

in escribe, click "help" scroll down to "about escribe" when the window appears, click the evolv logo 7 or 8 times.the window will disappear. then go into device monitor and you'll see a new field that is labeled "debug". in the debug window you'll see "screen disconnect". it will be in seconds if the number is 0 that means your screen is secure in the ZIF connector. if the seconds are counting up or bouncing between anything higher than 0 you have a bad screen connection to the board. EDIT......OH DANG, SORRY, THAT FIELD SEEMS TO HAVE DISAPPEARED???? STRANGE. AT LEAST IT IS ON WINDOWS 7 EDIT 2 LOL......IT'S THERE YOU JUST HAVE TO RESIZE THE SCREEN. I FOUND IT BY CLICKING "RESTORE DOWN" IN THE TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER OF THE DEVICE MONITOR WINDOW THEN I DOUBLE CLICKED THE TOP EDGE OF THE WINDOW AND SHRUNK IT UNTIL THE HIDDEN FIELDS COME OUT FROM UNDER THE "STATISTICS" PART OF DEVICE MONITOR.

here's what i use, STRICTLY for charging...... https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Specialised-Blackberry-Transformer-Charging/dp/B00RL68RNS/ref=pd_sim_107_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5ST2VMHAYCW9DJSG0E7V i have four of the 3'.3" ones. they work very well and 2 are about 1 year old and the micro usb end portions of them are holding up nicely, still a nice snug fit.

there should be two small ceramic capacitors there. it looks like they went all "Chernobyl" on you and shorted themselves to obivion. email evolv, open a help ticket. if you can desolder the board, you ask them if you send in the old board, would they send a new one out to you. worth a shot. here's the link........ https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

i run into this problem often when the values are close to each other in the scale of device monitor. only workaround i know of is.....take for instance your screenshot, i would run it again but with the middle yellow (current)un-ticked. then see what it reads, then re-tick the current box and un-tick the light blue (voltage). basically tick as many boxes as possible without them crashing into each other. i would like to be able to expand "live view" to full screen or even a separate screen outside of DM. i'm sure that would clear it up.

most 26650 batteries are not the best when it comes to vaping 50w and above. you can try a better 26650 battery. i noticed battery mooch is really liking the ijoy 26605. a true 30 amp 26650. here take a look....... https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/ijoy-40a-4200mah-26650-bench-test-results-overrated-but-a-great-30a-battery.764411/ another thing you can try to avoid a premature weak batt message is.....you can see what your "cell soft cutoff" is set to in escribe under the "Mod" tab. you could take it down to 2.68v but no lower than that or you run the risk of having the mod not work correctly (fixable by bringing the CSC back up) .

if the fuse is blown the charging circuit will dump it's charge into a Transient Voltage Diode. to protect the dna board. your screen shot is blurry. what is pack voltage and cell voltage when you are using 2 18650's?

my 2 cents...... i have my CSC set to 2.68V anything lower and the dna 75 gets angry and starts throwing error messages when battery gets low and you hit the cutoff. FWIW most cell manufacturers test their cells down to 2.5v like you said, so 2.68 - 2.75 will NOT hurt the cell.

definiely contact evolv. this is the same behavior the VS dna 200's were displaying with the first SP1 update. they had to tweak the FW for a fix. open a ticket and see what they say then report back. to rule out anything on your end, make sure the usb cable you are using is capable of carrying the 2 amps the 250 is requiring for the charge. make sure the wall wart is 2.1 amps or above. you can open a help ticket here........ https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

where ever the vape feels right to you legs. no right or wrong. if you want a faster preheat you could always raise the preheat wattage. if you want a slower ramp to temp then bring it down, like you're what asking about, or turn it off (1 watt). either way, the preheat will only use the preheat wattage you set until the coil has reached a certain XXXF of your set temp. raising the "punch" brings the preheat cutoff closer to your set temp. it's explained in the escribe tutorial. i forget exactly how many degrees the punch will preheat until. i think it's a certain percentage of your set temp, i think. edit......i should mention if your set wattage is too low the dna won't recognize a TC build.

Hi dhackwrench...... can you post a screen shot of device monitor with all of the "Battery" options checked. let's see what your cell voltages are at. it will connect to escribe with the lipo battery installed, right?

welcome to forum ForgottenJedi. what is the ohm reading in Atomizer Analyzer after the tank has been sitting on the mod a while (when it displays "shorted" when the fire button is pressed). my guess is it's refining somewhere between a very low res and a short. that explains why it's slightly glowing/heating the coils then all of sudden functioning fine. it's soft limiting the current until the resistance rises enough for the full selected wattage. take and post here a screenshot of AA when you first screw on the atty and another with it saying shorted. what is your mod res set to? can you post a pic of the 510, wiring and wiring to board?

not so quick omar. I'm not sure how the end of ribbon from the screen is connected to the ribbon extension piece. if it's soldered you'll have to try and de-solder the old screen from the ribbon extension and re-solder the new screen to the extension, which can be difficult. it all depends on your soldering skills. or it may not be soldered and be some sort of connector. that would be the ideal and easiest way if the screen needed to be replaced. you'll have to open it up and look.