retird

Great that Element mods is doing right by you. I wouldn't be too concerned about your DNA75 either.... These are really good chips.... E-liquid going in the wrong place is never a good thing... As a thought I would check for any shorts in the 510 connector or wiring also when placing the new board... Please report back with you results.....

We have offered our suggestions. You can get with the vendor on their warranty for DOA units. You can run the USB Recovery Charging feature in Escribe to see if that will bring your batteries back from arriving with the charge too low. Batteries with such low charge will not charge normally so you can try the USB Recovery Charging as we said above. You may have to try it several times to get the batteries back. Since these devices are new I don't recommend you open them up as it may void any warranty you have. Let us know if the USB Recovery Charging helps...

Element Mods going to help you out? You could start a ticket with Evolv and explain what happened. They should respond back to you about your ticket.

Yep... you have never even used the device..... Device shipped with batteries too low.... VapingBad's post gives you good guidance.... Contact vendor and/or EScribe - Tools -Diagnostics - Perform USB Recovery Charging.

OK I must have misunderstood where you said "I bridged pins 2 and 3 and connected both cables to the bridge on the battery sled." I took it you had made a bridge on the sled...thus maybe the sled was a 3 cell sled... sorry..

Is your battery sled 3 cells or just 2? Maybe you have one of the two batteries installed but one in the wrong slot if you have a 3 sled battery. The two batteries are in series aren't they?

Maybe contact HCigar and you could start a ticket with Evolv.. Evolv could ask you to send just the board to them but they should respond back to you with their comments, instructions and info... __________________

Maybe contact HCigar and you could start a ticket with Evolv.. Evolv could ask you to send just the board to them but they should respond back to you with their comments, instructions and info...

Import the .csv file from the Materials tab.....then add it to the Materials on Device...Kanthal_A1_Preheat is the material added

sent via your e-mail....

Are you good to go now?

Sometimes it takes a little longer for the account to be active..... Welcome to the forum... Did you get your activation e-mail?

The DNA has a refinement feature. Here is a short version @VapingBad posted about refinement: Ever since the 40 they have used refinement to get an accurate resistance reading that compensates for environment and some internal resistance, so there is no need to manually adjust resistance. After you have taken a few puffs on a new build let it sit for a bit (5-30 mins, normally 5 is enough), the board will monitor how the coils cools and with a estimate of room temperature from a sensor on the board and calculate the base resistance. Because it takes temperature into account, a range of temperatures, it is probably the most accurate resistance reading possible.

No worry.... I never lock ohm's....locking ohms prevents refinement..

Any hot spots in your build. A hot spot can cause a quick temp protect message when coil actually hasn't heated to temp. I suspect coil build or connections as opposed to having a lemon from what you say...

Could it include the EScribe Settings (.ecig) file for the Opus enclosure?

If it were the board wouldn't it do it with any version of firmware?

So is it that the device gets hot at the battery area? Previous Hcigar VT75's had a cathode screw that when not tight would cause the case and battery to heat. The nano doesn't have the cathode screw but some report the device heating of the case and battery on the nano also. Some say cleaning the battery cap and threads of the device where the cap screws into helps with unwanted heating at the battery area. Some atty's get hot with use. Don't know if this is what you are seeing but just passing along some info.... Good luck...

@dwcraig1 is correct. The DNA 20D small screen's ribbon is soldered to the board. The only way I think you could add a ribbon extension is to solder the extra ribbon onto the DNA20 ribbon and then solder it to the DNA20D board. I guess you could find a connector set to solder to the ribbons and connect the extension that way but will still have to solder the extension to the board. There is no Zif connector on the board.

You should see that the Li-Po will charge to 4.20 volts each cell with pack voltage at 12.60 volts when the device is set to maximum puffs. Continue to let it charge and see what the full charge looks like... The lightning bolt in the battery bar of the device should go away when the battery pack is fully charged. The 11.1 Volt spec is 3.7 volts per cell nominal.

Didn't recall there being a thread for this device so here we go..... Been evaluating this new device for about two weeks now. They did an excellent job IMO programing and setting up the mod settings. I ran it in power mode with Kanthal for a week with typical results then switched to TP (Temperature Protection) mode. I use the notch coil (SS316L) in a RTA and I like to use it when testing and evaluation a device as it is not a wrapped coil. It is very stable and consistent and it is my go to "reference coil type" for all testing and eval's of Temperature Protection mode. Been tweaking my settings and vaping. SS is very smooth on this device also and since the notch coil heats quickly I can adjust pre-heat wattage, punch, and duration accordingly. I try to find the "sweet spot of pre-heat" whereby it uses just enough pre-heat settings to get the job done without using excessive pre-heat settings (doesn't punch too hard). I also try to set the wattage at the "sweet spot" where the wattage is enough to do the job but not excessive (vapor control). The temperature is set to achieve the best flavor production. Think it is tweaked pretty close to acceptable. Captured another screen of the Switchbox from EScribe. Fired the device 6 times while not vaping so the air flow wouldn't vary. The screen here shows the end of firing number 3 and the next three firings after that. The DNA75 is monitoring the temperature and adjusting as designed per the set temperature. As you can see it is a very smooth and consistent even with multiple firings. As you see when the temp goes above the set temp it is regulated down and when it is below the set temp it regulates up. That's as expected and designed. You can see in the info at the bottom where the "Last Puff" sequence temperature is 399.29 F. The Temperature setting is 400.00 F. I could go on with more info but the post is getting too long I think. Here is the screenshot: Anybody else out there rocking the Switchbox?

You not getting any error messages? With it set to 120 watts with a .18 ohm Kanthal coil it should fire. So in EScribe while firing it only reaches 80 watts while firing? What will it show while firing and not vaping (no airflow)? I've got to sign off for 5 or 6 hours so maybe someone else can chime in... Are batteries charged and balanced? What about battery sag? Maybe a lot of mass in the coil requiring more time to heat up but some reviewers say no ramp up time.

In EScribe what is the Kanthal Power Limit set at in the Mod Tab?

I use notch coils and never lock the ohms. On a new coil what cold ohm reading do you get? What is your notch coil's manufacturer's stated ohm's reading? What ohm's reading did you lock it at? The notch coil uses no resistance wire for connection to atty deck. Those 2 wires connect to the notch coil that is SS316l. If your ohms are fluctuating I suspect poor connection at the deck or poor connection between the atty and device 510 connector. Does it wick well?