Jump to content

SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.


seekerom
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello Vapers! :thumb:

We all have had DNA chip for some time already and we all have tested different features of Evolv. Let's share our experience with everyone.

After reading  almost all the topics about SS316L, I didn't find any understandable information about the settings in Evolv. Everybody write about their builds, but building spaced coils is easy, what is hard - to adjust the right settings of preheat power, punch, time limit, watts.

I have LavaBox for half a year, I tried building TC coils - different coils, different settings and have had just confusion and frustration about it. I always go back to Kanthal. But I do want to understand this topic. It's annoying, when you're able to build good only with some types of wire :)

1. Please share settings that worked the best for you - let's collect all relevant information in one place.

2. Information and sujestions - we all know that we shouldn't dry burn those coils hard. But what about sujestions of wicking, differences of builds in RDA and RTA? Share your experience and we all be grateful.

3. Share your experience about ohms - which ohms worked the best for you with SS316L. Maybe you know whats the difference in performance with different ohms? SHARE! :)

4. Please DO NOT post here replies like - "i have 24 guge, double coil, 2.5 mm, 6 - 7 wraps and I'm happy with it". Posts like those doesn't actually give enough information... even if you add - "I vape it on 50watts". NOT enough information, bro! :)) SETTINGS!!!

5. Once, Jaquith shared files for different wires, but those links doesn't work now. Please, anyone share active links with as much files as you've collected so far - for all the TC wires!!!

6. I saw many sujestions for people that vape on claptons, twisted and other "complicated" wires - but hey, not everyone is doing that - I don't for example. Maybe some day I will, but now for example, I need to understand how to have a calm nice vape on my TC :))      

We all will be grateful for sharing your expirience Vaper! :)   Welcome! :)


(P.S. - English is not my native language - I'm sorry for my possible mistakes!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am having a great experience with 316L since I got my first Dna200. I tried it before with other devices and just hated it. Here are the set ups I am using right now.

Dripper

28g 316L single coil, twisted, 3mm, 6 wraps spaced @ .58ohms

Pre heat set at 60w

Power set at 40w

Temp set at 480 degrees.

Using the stock curve that was available on Escribe for SS

Tank

28g 316L dual coil, single strand, 2.5mm, 5 wraps spaced @ .31ohms

Pre heat set at 50w

Power set at 30w

Temp set at 420 degrees

Using the stock curve that was on the board.

The Dna200 is the best TC vaping I have ever had and I actually use it. I do have 4 Dna40's and I just love em and will never part with them but they stay in power mode all the time.

If there is anything I missed let me know and ill do my best to answer.

Here is a pic of what I am using in a dripper. 28g 316L, twisted, spaced, 5 wrap @ .58 ohms with above settings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think single coiling probly is the best way with using the stuff, i will definatly have a bash using your recomendations, for the amount of stainless ive got here gathering dust, so for the sake of using it up... ive found twin coiling ss a nightmare.. good quality flavoursome juice has allways over ridden whatever material ive used, and have allways found Nfie30 very easy to work with, both building and tuning in.. no disrespect to the op i can appreciate what hes trying to do, but saying he goes back to kanthal every time, its no real biggie not getting to gripps with tc, i doubt that his kanthal builds are far out - performance wise, compared to tc builds, i know mine arnt..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guys!

black lace, 2 questions to you :)

1. why single coil build is better with SS?
2. i've failed in understanding this part of your post - ..."but saying he goes back to kanthal every time, its no real biggie not getting to gripps with tc, i doubt that his kanthal builds are far out - performance wise, compared to tc builds, i know mine arnt.."

english is not my mother language. please try to explain it in other way!

would be grateful to you! thanks! ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

black lace said:

I think single coiling probly is the best way with using the stuff, i will definatly have a bash using your recomendations, for the amount of stainless ive got here gathering dust, so for the sake of using it up... ive found twin coiling ss a nightmare.. good quality flavoursome juice has allways over ridden whatever material ive used, and have allways found Nfie30 very easy to work with, both building and tuning in.. no disrespect to the op i can appreciate what hes trying to do, but saying he goes back to kanthal every time, its no real biggie not getting to gripps with tc, i doubt that his kanthal builds are far out - performance wise, compared to tc builds, i know mine arnt..



I have almost 100% gone back to single coil builds even with kanthal. Its so much easier and with the power we have available these days I feel no need to build dual coils anymore. 5 years ago dual coils were necessary to acheive the performance we were after. Vape gear was low powered, low tech and hard to use.

Its pretty nice to build a large diameter single coil and be able to control every aspect about it. Post back your findings maybe you will find something that I have not.

I have noticed ive been using a wide range of temps with my drippers. Depending upon my mood anywhere from 450 to 500. Its pretty easy to change the way the Dna lets you change it from the main screen.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was struggling with ss 316L for a bit. I have a panzer dna 200. My issue was a weak vape after device rests. What i have figured out to work perfectly.on my aromamizer is : Download djlsb vapes ecig profile and upload it to the device. Build contact coils 7-9 wraps each. Prepare them at low wattage. Get it to glow just enough. Careful with the sudden hot legs while shaping the coils. Wick and wet. Don't use too much cotton. Let it sit a minute to normalize temps. Get your device ready and connect with escribe. Go to your ss316 profile. Detect you cold reststance ( I usually end up around 0.17 and 0.19 ohms). Lock your ohms. Check temperature dominant. I set my temp tp 460-470. Watts to 65. Preheat power to 1w. Yes one watt. Upload settings. Back into the profile and adjust/override the atomizer resistance. Add 0.002 ohms at a time. Adjust, upload, and then test. Rinse and repeat. 4 to 6 attempts should be enough to narrow it down. Thats it for settings. If i have issues after the prep process above I check my coil connections. After about 3 tanks I change the wick when i clean the coils. About 3-5 coil cleanings and its time to replace the coils.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Danno said:

I was struggling with ss 316L for a bit. I have a panzer dna 200. My issue was a weak vape after device rests. What i have figured out to work perfectly.on my aromamizer is : Download djlsb vapes ecig profile Contact coils prepped at low wattage. Get it to glow just enough. Wick and wet. Don't use too much cotton. Let it sit a minute to normalize temps. Get your device ready and connect with escribe. Go to your ss316 profile. Detect you cold reststance. Lock your ohms. Check temperature dominant. I set my temp tp 460-470. Watts to 65. Preheat power to 1w. Yes one watt. Upload settings. Back into the profile and adjust/override the atomizer resistance. Add 0.002 ohms at a time. Adjust, upload, and then test. Rinse and repeat. 4 to 6 attempts should be enough to narrow it down. Thats it for settings. If i have issues after the prep process above I check my coil connections. After about 3 tanks I change the wick when i clean the coils. About 3-5 coil cleanings and its time to replace the coils.



What does the temperature dominant feature do? I have seen it but have left it unchecked. I did notice if I change my Hana back to factory it has them checked.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob_H said:



What does the temperature dominant feature do? I have seen it but have left it unchecked. I did notice if I change my Hana back to factory it has them checked.



It makes temperature the main adjustment for a profile rather than power.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

spook said:

i thought locking the ohms in temp mode in a dna200  is a bad idea.   isnt it supposed to have that temp learning feature.   thats what it says in the manual.


It is, but that is not what temp dominant does, it just makes temp the main/easy adjustment and makes Watts the secondary adjustment (lock then hold up & down).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

spook said:

i thought locking the ohms in temp mode in a dna200  is a bad idea.   isnt it supposed to have that temp learning feature.   thats what it says in the manual.

The manual also tells you how to lock the ohms. Wtf else would it be used for...kanthal? All these threads about getting ss316L to work right and you post "I thought the manual said...". We must be illiterate idiots. Thanks for being helpful and pointing that out. We should have read the manual.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

here's what i do regarding refinement, locking or not to lock ohm................

i build my TC coil or coils throw it on a dna 40,75,200 and vape it a few times. i take notice of the base res on the screen. then i set the mod down for about 20-30 min giving the dna time to refine the ohm reading. after refinement, as long as the ohm reading has gone down a tiny bit or stays the same i lock the ohms. if it starts to go the opposite direction or wildly fluctuates in atty analyzer then i know there is a poor connection adding resistance to the circuit somewhere between the 510 and coil. most common culprits are: dirty 510, loose post connections or just a poor atty for TC. atty analyzer is a great tool, use it. this is always what works for me.

i use SS 316L 24 gauge. preheat- 120w        punch- 11        time limit- 1 sec. 

rocking a dual SS 316, 24 gauge .22 ohm in a 25mm VCMT 60w, 575 °F. the vape is nice and dense. i only run BFB straight outta the toaster. love it. my go to vape.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dylang919 said:

I love stainless steel. I running a dual fused clapton, 6 wraps, ohming out at .22, 58.7 Watts and 470 degrees. Works like a charm. Great vapor, great flavor!!



1. Please share settings that worked the best for you - let's collect all relevant information in one place.

4. Please DO NOT post here replies like - "i have 24 guge, double coil, 2.5 mm, 6 - 7 wraps and I'm happy with it". Posts like those doesn't actually give enough information... even if you add - "I vape it on 50watts". NOT enough information, bro! :)) SETTINGS!!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Danno said:

I was struggling with ss 316L for a bit. I have a panzer dna 200. My issue was a weak vape after device rests. What i have figured out to work perfectly.on my aromamizer is : Download djlsb vapes ecig profile and upload it to the device. Build contact coils 7-9 wraps each. Prepare them at low wattage. Get it to glow just enough. Careful with the sudden hot legs while shaping the coils. Wick and wet. Don't use too much cotton. Let it sit a minute to normalize temps. Get your device ready and connect with escribe. Go to your ss316 profile. Detect you cold reststance ( I usually end up around 0.17 and 0.19 ohms). Lock your ohms. Check temperature dominant. I set my temp tp 460-470. Watts to 65. Preheat power to 1w. Yes one watt. Upload settings. Back into the profile and adjust/override the atomizer resistance. Add 0.002 ohms at a time. Adjust, upload, and then test. Rinse and repeat. 4 to 6 attempts should be enough to narrow it down. Thats it for settings. If i have issues after the prep process above I check my coil connections. After about 3 tanks I change the wick when i clean the coils. About 3-5 coil cleanings and its time to replace the coils.



Preheat? Preheat time?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

seekerom said:



1. Please share settings that worked the best for you - let's collect all relevant information in one place.

4. Please DO NOT post here replies like - "i have 24 guge, double coil, 2.5 mm, 6 - 7 wraps and I'm happy with it". Posts like those doesn't actually give enough information... even if you add - "I vape it on 50watts". NOT enough information, bro! :)) SETTINGS!!!

Ok. I'm using temco 316 stainless for regular round builds and my fused clapton wire I get from advanced vape supply. I highly recommend them for pre-built wire. The file I'm using comes from steam engine on all of my DNA 200 devices and DNA 75. I don't know what you're looking for as far as settings go bro. I was using temp dominant but I switched back to watts dominant . 9 times out of 10 I lock my ohms. I have 2 addy's that I let the board do refinement on, one is my aromamizer supreme and the other is my velocity v2. Both of them have rock solid resistance so I let the dna 200 do it's thing. I always use spaced coils as I get a better vape in temp control that way. Let me know some exact info you're looking for and I'll give it to ya.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

spook said:

i thought locking the ohms in temp mode in a dna200  is a bad idea.   isnt it supposed to have that temp learning feature.   thats what it says in the manual.



I lock my ohm's I seem to get a more consistent vape that way and can run at higher temps. It does work ok with it unlocked but I can feel the change in power allot. I guess maybe I should give it a another chance and see how it is. Ive never heard that about the Dna200 and just thought it was just like the Dna40 needing to be locked all the time.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

seekerom said:

thanks guys!

black lace, 2 questions to you :)

1. why single coil build is better with SS?
2. i've failed in understanding this part of your post - ..."but saying he goes back to kanthal every time, its no real biggie not getting to gripps with tc, i doubt that his kanthal builds are far out - performance wise, compared to tc builds, i know mine arnt.."

english is not my mother language. please try to explain it in other way!

would be grateful to you! thanks! ;)

sos mate been away, dont think i could have answered the question any better than robh at #5 only to add that when twin coiling ss becomes technicaly difficult to get an equal ballance, like there is no forgivness from the loaded file. We all started on kanthal, whatever you put the time into, it will come and you will get it.. having base build information and settings information is allways an advantage and a very good start, but the building, fitting and programing in is allways going to be down to the end user... until escribe advances into an auto tune section, where you plug your mod into escribe and the program fiers the mod and takes all the measurements and recalibrates it for you, entirely.. I do believe a data base or library of all coil builds and fiering files would be good, as yet anouther thing, but programs like wire wizzard exist, and again , get your build to work is down to the end user, anyone can wrap a piece of wire round a stick, getting it up and running is the bit...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll be following this, I seem to be having issues with SS316L (only wire I have) as well. I think I might just buy some UD wire next time. My wire did come from a vape shop, but no idea what brand of wire it is.

The vape feels better on my cuboid, but that's probably because the cuboid SS 316 setting is not that accurate. I feel the DNA75/200 should be better once I get it set up correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found that blue mad rabbit wire works with escribes 316l preloaded CSV built a .1 dual coil 3mm 8 wrap 22 awg coils working great 65 Watts 70 preheat punch at 5 425 degrees... Dunno if I like it better then the titanium I've been vaping for last 6 months but it does have a clean taste

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im absolutley convinced that with the stainless there are so many different grades of the metal, and say for 316 or 430 how wide is the parameter of the mix of alloys for it to fall into that numbered catagory, and how much does it interfear with critical measurements on a loaded csv file, for instance when you go on wire wizard they do try and help out moor with the drop down menue of manufacturers or suppliers label on spool brand of wier...but who knows how different each batch is or where it came from.. for me its stealth Nife30 or stealth tempererd ni200 its just job done no headach. i have got spools of wier hear that are most definatly not what it says on the lable, and some folk on this site swear by it. So what hsppend there. Its crazy..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cant fathom how people are still complaining of problems with 316L SS on the DNA200

Ive been using it for months, no drama

All my coils are built thusly:

Single coil
7/8 wraps of 26g 316L for around 0.6
Spaced

I think ive said it here, and probably on every forum where people bang on about issues with 316L SS, build your coils knowing the caveats of the wire - low TCR, and stop blaming the DNA200 for the limitations of the wire. Build for above 0.5, the device has a far better chance to cope with the wire if you give it enough TCR to work with. Plenty of people who have followed this advice in my posts will tell you they had far better experiences.

People do have luck building lower, probably using good quality wire. But if youre using cheap fasttech or other generic who-knows-what-it-actually-is-even-if-its-labelled-316, and youre whining, then you need to get better quality wire, and stop whining. Im not a cloud chaser either, i vape to not smoke...im weird like that.

All my coils work fine with the default 316 profile...

I do not use Preheat - i approach this thusly "why would i want to heat my wire/juice to a setting i wouldnt vape at?". I can wait a half second for the wire to heat up, and up to the temp i vape at.
Preheating a wire beyond the temp you intend to vape at and not getting accurate results...well i wouldnt be surprised...again, learn about the caveats of the wire...preheating it is just going to mean youre forcing the mod to make calculations on a wire with very low TCR, at inflated initial TCR values due to preheating....not the mods fault, its yours for not understanding how it works, or recognising the limitations of the wire <- a lot of the problem is people not understanding the fricking limitations of the wire.

I have my watts set at 40

I vape at 180-200c

Never lock ohms, my atties (2 x Lemo 2's) are rock stable...another area people need to consider, how stable are your atties. Mine do not drift.

I use the same atties on my other mod - a TreeBox, and they work just as well on that as the DNA200, with the same read ohms, and the same temp settings. I can go from the TreeBox to the DNA200 and the experience is identical....so its nothing to do with the DNA and the whiners assertion that the DNA200 is flawed with 316 L SS....build a decent ohmage spaced coil with decent wire....

If youre having that much trouble with 316L SS, the answer is simple, move to 430 SS, it has a higher TCR, so even with crap quality wire, you have a better chance of success.

Ive been waiting for 430 SS to be available here, to make things even more accurate, but im not in any rush 316L SS works just fine, with a coil built to the limitations of the wire.

Ive been a tc only vaper for about 8 months, and using 316L SS for about 6 months of that





Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...