engmia

Did you resolve your issue yet? Why are they asking you to contact Ginger Vapor when you said you own a Boxer Box mod? Shouldn't you be contacting Boxer instead? Furthermore, could you please clarify which issues you are still experiencing so I can assist you.

Thanks a lot! Ahh Aplinetech, how didn't I recognize them. Seems very reasonable, well done on the mod. What wattage/settings do you usually vape? For efficiency I can highly recommend the new 20700/21700 batteries. My 20700 Sanyo 20700B came in last week and I'm surprised really. On my DNA75C, I cannot kill the battery for vaping two full days. I'm taking over 48 hours here, they are even getting me to the night of the third day, however I'm still doing testing on them (and they are new batteries). I am vaping on 15W/20W preheat, TC on, Replay Off, Kayfun Prime. I was waiting for the 40T, but when I saw the price on that one when it hit the marked a month ago or so in Europe, I was like what... It cost 15 pounds for a single cell. For that price I instead bought two Sanyo 20700B's and a new Sony VTC5A to have a spare for my DNA75 mod, which is now my backup, should anything screw up (hopefully not). Albeit on paper they weren't as good as the 40T's, I'm extremely happy with the performance of the 20700B in the range I specified. I haven't tested in higher output scenarios yet with RDA's and etc.

What mod do you own?

Yeah they are inter-compatible. It could not work the other way around, since DNA250C have a little more internal storage than the DNA75C, so you could upload a slightly larger theme on there which wouldn't fit on the DNA75C. I assume Escribe will give you an error even before you start uploading the larger theme. I haven't seen such a theme though, and I believe the theme designer should build them compatible for both devices.

Oh I do already own a DNA 40, DNA 75 and a DNA75C chip (VaporShark, DIY Aluminium box mod and LostVape Mirage), and I have always recommended them with the words "there are cheaper option, but believe me it's well worth the money". I'm not a big fan of plastic and definitely prefer the feel of aluminium mods, especially considering that you hold them for most of the time. However I haven't gotten the chance to experience good 3D print in person, so I was curious at the benefits/downsides since I have toyed with the idea of custom 3D printed enclosure. I actually like the extra weight of the aluminium so I'm not sure that 3D printing is my cup of tea, but definitely a curious area. The less demanding enclosure (and the ease of 3D printing of course) is the biggest benefit which I see. Like you, I keep my aluminium mods separate from keys and coins so they don't start getting scratched up. You could easily leave this on concrete and all kinds of surfaces without thinking twice (not that I wouldn't leave my aluminium mod on concrete, but I would be more careful with the dragging). Then again, I'm already used to keeping my mod in a separate pocket. In general I want to build another custom DNA75C, but with a more specifically designed enclosure, so I'm looking for the best options.

@Ak89 Nice job on the modding mate! Not a fan of the RGB but sure do enjoy seeing people do stuff like this Again props for sharing the project. Could you please share what is the enclosure you're looking? It seems like it was CNC cut correct?

Thank you for the clarification!

Good news, it's not your board. It's definitely a weird bug in your theme. I haven't had the time too look into too much details but at first look your settings appear to be correct. The same settings on my theme do observe the expected behaviour e.g. when "Fire from this screen" is not selected the fire button acts as a back button. I tried uploading your theme and for reason it fires from screen on which it shouldn't, such as the "Atomizer" screen. On the battery screen it works as expected. Again, this is definitely something particular in this theme and not in Escribe or the board/your board. Are you using any conditions?

Hey mind breaking down for me what are the benefits of those mod? Don't get me wrong, they don't look too shabby - but they seem bulkier than my aluminium case mod and they are fully 3D printed? Furthermore what do you mean by scratch resistant? Judging by the looks the mods are 3D printed from the plastic materials so should be susceptible to scratches (although even if it gets scratched you should see other black material below)? How do you think it compares in durability to an anodized aluminium mod?

@James The fix isn't out yet right? If it helps you with troubleshooting -- I noticed that on Fedora 28 it doesn't crash in absolutely every scenario, only if modifying CERTAIN values through the UI. Here are a few examples: 1. Starting theme editor, selecting a Field element (say the battery percentage on my theme) and changing the Padding or Location of the element though the numerical values on the right side DOESN'T result in a crash. You can apply and upload the settings to your device. 2. Selecting the same Field element and trying to move it through the graphical interface results in an instant CRASH (albeit changing the values through the numbers works fine) 3. Selecting this Field element, then selecting another Field element without doing any changes results in an instant CRASH. 4. Selecting the Field element and going to a Gauge element, DOESN'T result in a crash. You can go back and forth between those two without issues, but once you select another Field element it would CRASH as in the above scenarios. 5. Same for the Gauge element, I can move it around using the numerical values, but the moment I try moving with my mouse it would cause an instant CRASH.

@Dejay This issue is resolved on the DNA 75C which implements some sort of a battery and it doesn't forget the resistance upon a battery swap. @James In regards to ideas for fixing this for the DNA75, what was the cut-off time when the DNA 75 went from sleep to off mode? It is important for my below suggestion: How about adding the new/same coil question every time the board is powered on, but with the extra check of resistance difference as per the default device setting (it was 25% difference set by default I believe?). That way, when the board times out and the user turns it back on without actually have swapped anything, he won't get asked anything (since at this point -- I believe 15 minutes was the auto power-off time? -- the coil should've cooled down if not completely - enough to be in the default setting range and not trip the new/old question) but when the user quickly swaps a battery, he will get asked the new/same coil question since the coil will still be hot. He would of course pick no -- it's the same coil as he only changed the battery -- and keep his old resistance and accurate temp control. It also covers the scanerio when the user swaps a battery for example in the morning when everything is cooled off - he won't get asked the question, since the device would go -- powered on -> check resistance to old cold resistance -> resistance within *setting* range -> don't ask new/same. E.g. implemented like this, it should only add the extra new/same question when the user swaps the battery and the atomiser is still hot, which is the fix we're looking for. It shouldn't add the question implemented like this in any other scenarios so it won't affect the other users who don't swap out batteries or other scenarios. Please do tell if I need to clarify my explanation or if I'm missing any scenarios?

Thankfully Evolv haven't thought of some crazy definition of "toggle" and it means the same pretty much as everywhere else -- something which toggles the states of a function (usually On/Off). There is a "live display" or "emulation" as you called it of the theme you are editing, on two places actually: the screen itself which you're editing (once you get used to it, you'll be able to imagine how they display on-screen more) and the one on the right hand side, which contains much smaller windows and is better for getting a real hold of how exactly it will look on the device. You can check out DJLSB's tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dvBpTm-FQM Also as noted, you can download a few of the more comprehensive themes/the themes you like and tinkering with them -- for example now I'm learning how to use Escribe by editing the Material-ish Fire theme to my liking.

Here is a tutorial by DJLSB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dvBpTm-FQM Another good starting point is downloading a few of the more comprehensive themes and the themes you like, and tinkering with them/looking around how they were build using the theme editor.

He has uploaded a version 4 of his theme on his website, which includes the Replay function.

Every contact coil is prone to hotspots -- it doesn't matter if it's kanthal, stainless or whatever. That's why people who build contact coils dry burn them before hand, since it's hard to know whether you'll actually get a hotstop (and most of the times you do, I've been curious how the manufacturers handle this issue as the contact coils they sell do not appear to be dry burned). I do exclusively use only spaced coils, since I do not want to dry burn my coils for health concerns (Dr. Farsalinos and others have said that you are destroying the structure of the metal by heating it to such high temperatures, even with a "slight" glow) plus you save time in building. It's definitely more stable in temperature control. Another thing I forgot to ask is what atomiser you're using? Something which might cause the jumps in ohms (0.39-0.45) as you described, is also a loose connection inside the atomiser (either a spring or a screw not tightened hard enough). For example, on my Innokin Ares I had problems with my resistance jumping all over the place because the screws holding the coil itself weren't tight enough and the coil had a bit of play. Some atomisers have inherent issues with temperature control due to their design (implementing a spring in the design being the most often fault).