blueridgedog

I just had this happen. I had a screw strip/break in one of the reference case designs from Evolv. The threads would not let go of the chip, so tried to delicately drill it out to get the chip out. Boom. Here is hoping I can swap it out! The reference case is great, but the fasteners are very fragile.

I have coded for IOS, Android, Mac, Windows, Linux and several other OS's that are no longer used regularly. Though there is some portability with Java, a complex, hardware interfacing application such as escribe is not a simple port. I doubt we will see IOS or android versions any time soon, though a paired down IOS and android application that let you set some essential values could be less of a challenge than a full port. As to flappy birds, if you get to the point where you can code that in two hours....wow.

I can get into the philosophy that you set your temp once and then adjust wattage to control vapor, but that implies you are adjusting something. In TC mode I am just setting the max wattage, so if that setting comes into play, I am not hitting temp. In shot, if adjusting wattage changes your vape, you are below your set point and you are basically vaping in wattage mode with TC being a failsafe top end.

Cable or connected from cold boot?

As a pure TC vaper, I too would like the large display to be the set temp and the default up down action to be temp adjustment.

I put El Capitan on two of my Macs. Not the one I have with me at the moment, but will give VB a shot when I am back at the office Monday. The USB fix referenced was in the latest add-on tools.

Speaking of reliable atomizers...Any recommendations for a great tank/RTA?

5.0.6?

I am curious about the implications here. I have tried various twisted and wrapped coils and some do indeed fall into non-tc mode. Most of the time I deduce that it is user error in the assembly or an atomizer issue. I can't see how telling the chip to force TC mode would adjust this as it would still keep flooding the watts to see the resistance change it is looking for (based on the curve you have loaded). So, how would the chip act differently if you had the option to force TC mode? Personally, I think the only answer is to limit available watts in non-TC mode and to build accurately.

I would go to the hobbyking website and find a 3s pack that had dimensions that worked.

If the chip is also well grounded to the box, no. Some have added grounds after the fact in order to improve TC function.

I have sent them 7 boards and always got new boards in return.

That 510 wire-up is genius and scary.

I think you have to make room for a nut. You can't thread the wood then solder, as you would burn the mod. The only other long shot is a top washer with a wire that goes down though the mod, threading the wood.

Specs are that it can draw 23 amps. If the 510 joint melted, perhaps it was a cold joint. As to the "Warranty Service", that is a badly out of balance battery pack. Did you note the cell charge levels before shipping it off? It sounds like one of the cells sagged badly during the shorting event.

Looks like a hot spot or area that is shorting.

From my understanding, it happens when the mod is in sleep mode and it is an attempt to juggle the observed resistance of the coil with the known temperature of the space it is in. You may not notice it.

I put dual twisted 28g in my tugboat this weekend and it would not kick into TC. I am going to sand down the screws and give it another try. I was derailed by building my new Billow V2 dual coil tank atomizer that really kicks it out.

I have a roll of 316L and will be giving it a try. I am curious if anyone has a curve they are happy with - going with the default (steam) from the start.

Based on other threads, try unplugging other USB devices...so you only have a mouse and the DNA200 as a test.

I am stateside. I order from them frequently and the shipping is not to pricing is and is more than reasonable from a speed standpoint.

It would be great to have a locked top thread for "initial setup" for those that get mods that have not been factory configured.

Perhaps give the new calculator a try? http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp

This thread will give you guidance on the connections: /topic/66226-topic/?do=findComment&comment=895107

Wow...