blueridgedog

You need to run battery analyzer so your display is correct then. Putting in a figure based on math and assumption about the pack (as to capacity) will result in a battery meter that is just as accurate as those assumptions. I have seen that the wH rating estimated on this pack is way off.

Powering only while plugged in to a power source is either a fuse or battery issue. While in escribe, what to you see for cell voltages?

Have you tried 1% in the range then so that the assumption for same coil is the smallest? There appears no way in escribe to set the other end and reduce the frequency of it assuming it is a new coil without asking.

There is a high degree of variation in lipo cells and in the packs that are assembled from them. I have seen here and in other forums that many users have an issue with the pack supplied in the VT200. I suggest you do the battery analyzer step and then evaluate if the pack needs to be swapped out. It sounds as if it lacks the capacity you expect and sags badly when used. After you run the battery analyzer, vape while watching device monitor and see how it sags at the fully charged point and the half way point.

There is a significant shortage of them at the moment, so you are out of luck for a while. Some folks are working on sourcing an alternative, so stay tuned.

Suspect a bad pack then. Can you post a screen shot of device monitor so we can see your pack/cell voltages as well as USB input voltage?

Wait,same thing happened to me! How exactly do I do this? I am running VB on an iMac...so where do I find this "tools" you speak of? Ok, I found it, but whenever I try to press "ok" it keeps saying "device is not connected"...so is my mod dead?[/QUOTE] If an update fails on a VirtualBox setup, you may have to do the manual update via a real PC. I had a failed update that I could not resolve with VirtualBox but did get it to work with a PC. Make certain that the DNA200 is plugged in while booting the PC.

Try it cold first thing in the starting without an atomizer attached. Put on an atomizer and read ohms in p1 then p2.

You need to sustain 23 amps. So, the C rating will be dependent on the capacity of the pack. A 900mAh pack will have to have a higher C rating than a 1800mAh pack. For a 900mAh pack, .9wH * X = 23, or 23/.9 = X or 25.5 C. A 1800mAh pack would require 1.8wH * X = 23 or 23/1.8 = X or 12.7 C. A good way to think of it is to use a 100mAh pack (1wH). To get 23 amps would require a 23 C rating. If you go up in capacity, you drop the C rating required (in half for a 2wH pack) or double for a 500mAh pack.

Though that ok as numbers go, I would vape the pack down and see if the gab grew during run down.

There is amazing variation in the quality of packs out there, not just from one brand to the other but from lot to lot. Some testing mentioned here showed a 10% failure rate or reject rate. There are going to be a lot of folks with DNA200 mods that have packs that just don't stand up to use. The best thing to do is test the pack, verify the wh and the mAh and decide if performance issues are related to the pack or not. I have a great Turnigy 1300mAh pack that outperforms its rating and can easily go for two days, though that is in TC mode set at 440f with 200/200 watts on a single coil at .24 with modest to heavy vaping.

...and do the tests so that they ship the mod with the correct values in the board. A shipped mod that has not had battery and case analyzer run (at least on one reference mod) and those values coded into the default configuration, is scary.

At first I was thinking cable pinch, but you checked that. A board error is the only thing I can think of, though the error you describe is one I have not seen.

If you get such performance at 14.43, you have probably overstated what the wh capacity is vs reality. You can try something like 11 or actually measure it with battery analyzer.

I have not tried parallels. I use escribe via VirtualBox without issues (free as well). There is an install writeup on the software forum.

Sounds a lot like the USB timeout associated with running an operating system in a virtual environment, so there is probably some lag going on at the PC level slowing things down. One way I have addressed that in the past is to make a new user account and log in as that user as that often bypasses a great deal of startup related items that people tend to collect over the years.

I recommend swapping the chip out. Are you overseas such that that is an issue? Such a specific oddity is likely a chip issue.

You are suggesting soldering after the chip is in. I have thought of doing that for the Out and B-/B+.

Are you certain you have the disk space to install the image? It is a disk full error.

You can try a manual firmware install. Under "tools" and "update firmware". If that fails, then try it from a windows computer. I once got mine in such a state that I had to use a windows system to restore it. The key was having it plugged in at boot.

I am not aware of any posts exploring why mods and or chips fail being deleted. This forum is full of folks troubleshooting failures out in the open in a public way on a site hosted by Evolv. There are Evolv staff here trying to give advice and deduce if there are common issues in failures (assembly of the mod or in chip assembly). Over half the failures I have assisted with have been installation related and another third seem to be battery related with the remaining being chips with issues. Evolv is replacing failed chips regardless of reason as they are tying to collect a good census of causes to they can help manufactures do a better job. Common failures to date: Hana pinching the sreen Opus using a metal nut that cause shorts Users tinning too much of the lead, cause pad lift Improper balance charge connections Improper grounding of the 510 Improper atomizer/510 hookups

Send me a pic....love to see another CNC job for the chip.

Interesting. Some use temp as a not to exceed. Some use watts. I think it is build dependent as I have had some amazing builds on drippers that you would want to ratchet down the watts to get less vapor. For tanks though I have always let the temp be the controller as the juice flow is less. The idea of making SCRUM input open is cool. I have not coded in a long time and my IT work pre-dated it.

What would be the real world outcome of this pursuit? What conditions would prevent the mod from firing where it currently would in an undesired way? Currently I can either lock the device or remove the atomizer to achieve a no fire state.

I have had to direct solder them on all my builds.