dsidab81

I've rewired a Fullymax 3S 900mah, into a 3p...probably the smallest package I could come across with 3 in parallel. Their pack assembly actually made it fairly easy to breakdown and rewire - no circuit board at all, but I would advise using some adhesive solvent and a thin piece of wire to separate each cell to flip it for proper orientation.

Sure you're not just hitting amperage limits on these batteries? 18650's sag considerably more under load than lipo. 25r's are basically a 20amp battery right, and doesn't the 75 pull about 26amps under max load?

thanks, Nick.

So Nick you mention putting a female charging port in the bottom of one of your personal mods. would you anticipate any issues with have a parallel JST connection, one from battery to DNA board and the other to an external port - to use an external lipo charger?

I would think 3.4 ohms is pretty high, could you make a similar and put the two in parallel?

The case analyzer will help with this. Each chassis has different thermal properties, the only way to get this thermal offset is with case analyzer. it's kind of shocking that these large mod makers aren't customizing this prior to sale.

Thanks guys!

I see one mention of refinement on the DNA200 spec sheet in the resistance lock session, and various mentions of the term on ECF and here. When exactly does it take place - during run time, soft / hard reboot, while powered off? What exactly is refinement? - I know this sounds like a dumb question I'm not really seeing much fluctuation in resistance, maybe a .14 build I will see change over the course of the day to .15. I'm guessing this is just a rounding of the thousandths digit.

Any of the modders here have experience with these? http://www.electronicstix.com/products/z2-2-510-connector-obsidian-zenkote Obviously it requires a screwdriver for adjustment, but I'm curious if it would be a bit more solid connection than a Varitube 510. I'm thinking my spring is compressing a bit, and without buying 20 wave springs....not sure where else to go. If only we could get Evolv's 510

I've not taken my 200 past 60 watts yet, stay in the 20-30 range. Mainly build for flavor, but it's nice to know my mod has much more headroom if I choose to use it. Using a 3d print copy of the reference case with the fullymax 900mah battery, I'm easily getting two days out of use. I've also got a mod that's extremely pocketable, with a great chipset behind it. I can't say that about the 100's of budget mod's flooding in from China.. Not saying a 1S variant is useless, but maybe I only use my 3s like a 1s

fuse data sheet from mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/358/typ_UST_1206-245456.pdf 3413.0332.22 is the pn listed in the DNA 200 data sheet -the final .22 is ordering in 1000pc blister reel. The .0332 would be the 25a variant, this fuse package is sold in 7a through 25a types - with these 4 digits varying by rating Just to confirm, searching http://www.schurter.ch/ by pn 3413.0332.22 returns the same UST 1206 print that is referenced in the mouser link. ( http://www.schurter.ch/content/search?SearchText=3413.0332.22&tab=section-2&filter[]=attr_subcategory_facetata&filter[]=language_code:ger-DE ) I'd say your good to go

By the manufacturers pn that should be the same fuse listed in the dna200 data sheet.

I'd like to see this as well, or at least a way to tag a profile as temp protect or Kanthal - so you could not see a temp on the kanthal screen

There wattage should throttle down as you hit temp protect target, but I've not seen mine go to 0...like it was said before hot legs, odd coil connection, etc

Could you share a shot of device manager with you firing? Is your non firing resistance fluctuating?