VapingBad

I would not lock resistance unless I had a connection issue as you are disabling the DNAs ability to more accurately measure the resistance as the coil cools. I think locking at 1.1 ohm it will never reach temp so effectively be in power mode. You may need to raise the temp if the wire is not a great match with it's profile/TFR/curve.

TBH I prefer Ni200 I find easier to make coils with, it has excellent temp regulation and gives the best vape IMO, the low res issue has gone with the DNA200, you can't dry burn it until it's glowing red but you can dry burn at 600 F to get rid of most of the gunk. It's difficult truisms have come over form people using other temp limiting boards that can mislead you EG you need res lock and max the power to get the coils to temp quickly.

IMO DNAs got it more right having temp limited preheat than everyone else, like when we smoked we didn't expect to wait for it to get to temperature and I think many people have come from less sophisticated devices where you have to max the watts to achieve that. Evolv separated the two phases of your vape (preheat and the rest) so IMO with vary thick and/or low TCR wire that doesn't regulate as smoothly because of the time it takes for the heat to spread vs the res change you can have the max benefit of preheat and a smooth vape just by setting the watts to the watts you would probably use in power mode. YMMV

Your welcome, this is what I mean

I find the best strategy with ss is to max the preheat, especially punch and 2 or 3 seconds and keep the wattage so it stays just below temp just below the temp limit. It only get jagged after the preheat has finished if you have the watts higher than you need.

That's when you force it, keep clicking OK well a few times until it is won't go any further.

Forcing a manual fw update should get it back if the issue was due the the failed fw update.

You are not installing the batteries while plugged into USB are you? If so unplug the USB, remove all the batteries, press fire, then reinstall the batteries. If it doesn't work I would open a ticket with Evolv.

Yes, so the batteries will be higher when you remove them.

If you look at it firing on Device Monitor you should see that it is sagging to 3.2 V under load, if you are at high power those batteries will have a larger sag than HE2s, 25Rs and VTCs.

They would just act as a bridge I would think, it depends on the wattage rating, but a fuse on the balance taps needs to be something like 50 mA and I doubt resistors available in low enough wattage. Resistors were just a guess on my part, but 2 fuses doesn't make sense to me I would expect 4 or none.

I think they are probably 0 ohm resistors dwcraig1 get the metre on them and see.

The reading a voltage on cell 3 with no battery is usual, it must be the USB power through the charging/balance circuit. It seems that if one cell is not fully connected it affects the readings for the other 2, I wouldn't recommend trying this, but I just hooked my working one up to EScribe and removed the batteries. They were all 3.68 V (VTC4) Removed cell 2 then 1 = 2.81 V, 3 = 2.85 V Removed cell 2 & 3 then 1 = 3.05 V, 3 = 1.58V Removed cell 2 & 1 then 1 = 1.45 V, 3 = 3.04V Removed all then 1 = 0.57 V, 2 = 0.00 V, 3 = 3.04 V (disconnect from EScribe before putting the batteries back or you will just confuse the board) So all the symptoms in earlier posts could just be from one poor connection, IDK I have not had an issue with my Reuleaux, but would look at the wiring, the ground screw and the reverse protection rings as possible causes.

Have you got the Cell Soft Cut Off (Mod tab - Manufacture Settings) in EScribe set high? The default is 3.09 V.

I would try different USB power supplies and cables first as if there is an intermittent supply the display would light like it does when you first plug it in. I would also want to be sure it is not actually firing and return it if it is.

Recovery charging has a safety time cut off so you may need to do it several times, but the flat cell might well be dead now.

Run Device Monitor in EScribe with each cell checked and see if the voltage sag when firing is equal for all 3 cells.

The csv will be either a wire/material profile or a battery discharge profile, the first you would load in the Materials tab, the second in the Mod tab under Manufacture Settings. The device settings have and .ecig file extension and the 8 profiles have an .ecigprofile file extension.

I got 12 day turnaround from the day a posted from the UK to when I received the replacement, the replacement was sent the day my return arrived.

Things I can think to check for are that the solder for the +ve output wire is not touching the vias (tiny holes through the circuit board) next to the pad, the switch is fully isolated (the body of the switch is isolated from the wiring) and the soldering on the balance pins is not dry and the pins are free of dirt and flux.

Common ground is fine you just need to make sure the board mounts & 510 ground have good clean & tight contact. You could add aground wire from the board to the 510 or the case if you want, IMO that is probably best for DIY unless you have a well machined enclosure where the board and the 510 are both screw to the same bit of metal.

Protovaper still have some http://www.protovapor.com/product/silo-billet-aluminum-dna-200d-mod-case/

Could be a weak connection, if it it a device using common ground wiring (no separate ground wire to the 510) try tightening the board mounting screws.

You can jump 2 & 3 on the board, if I was going to use the socket on the board I would jump them in the plug to make it easy to swap to a 3S LiPo later if I wanted.

That's good to hear DV, IIRC one of their guys is a member on here, sorry can't recall the user name.