VapingBad

I see what you mean, I once scrunched a Ti coil with ceramic tweezers while getting EScribe to fire it for 10 seconds, brighter than a flash bulb. But these are not things that are going to happen when you are out and about with your normal vaping set up though and once you burn a coil out it stops being a hazard.

Not seen it, but all Evolv boards have a 20 second puff cut-off so it would not be dangerous IMO.

I think it just slides out sideways once the battery cradle is removed. pic in this post /topic/67734-topic/?do=findComment&comment=909676

There are some pictures in this thread /topic/67734-topic/ and this thread /topic/67004-topic/

It shouldn't harm your device it would just get less runtime. The one thing I would be careful of is charging as if a connection problem is causing it to see a cell voltage lower than it really is it may keep trying to charge it after it's full, I don't know for sure as not had a device doing this to test, but I doubt it would be a safety issue as I believe the board will not give the cell more than 4.2 V.

An easy check is swap the positions of the cells and see if the weak cell in EScribe is still cell 2, I think it will be and that would strongly point to a connection issue.

Sounds like you do not have solid connections Smoky, you need all the strands firmly clamped at both ends and spaced coils are less problematic, maybe tighter twists will help to. I mainly use dual coils twisted Ni200 from 34 AWG to 29 AWG 2 and 3 strand with few problems since the DNA40 was introduced.

The wire wizard page is for creating the material's curve or TCR for mixed wire coils, I have not tried it so can't advise which mixes are best. I am liking triple twisted 0.2 mm (32 AWG) Ni200 ATM, I find it easier to work with than say 0.4 mm (26 AWG) Ti and better flavour, strong enough to pull cotton through while just soft enough to tweak the spacing in a couple of seconds) YMMV.

Have you confirmed these are connected to each other, the picks only show bal 3 connected?

You should have the Type set to LiPo for normal 18650s, unless you know for sure they are the far far less common LiFePO4 batteries.

Is balance 2 connected to balance 3?

Yes it is the first box on the Mod tab, labelled Charging Mode and what you set it to is just personal preference, personally I have it at max recharges 95% of the time, but if I'm away for the weekend sometimes I set it to max puffs and fully charge all my mods. You don't need to use the analyser, if your battery bar is inaccurate it will make it accurate, but just setting the Watt-hours should be enough unless the manufacture has overestimated the battery capacity. Even then you can guess and get the bar for more accurate EG if you have 10% on the battery bar when it runs out reducing the Wh by 10% will likely be > 95% accurate. Most LiPos should have similar curves, 18650 will vary more so there is more sense doing it for those. There is a community spread sheet MikePetro host that hold the tested Wh of a number of popular batteries and you may find yours there /topic/65816-topic/

You can choose between maximum puffs and maximum recharges on the Mod tab in EScribe, they charge to 4.2 and 4.1 V per cell respectively. Maximum recharges should about double the life of your battery, but reduce the runtime between charges by up to about 20%.

You don't need to do anything special for the material on the mod or on the Wire wizard page, twisted Ni is the same as single strand and Kanthal does not need the material setting as it will not be temp limited by the DNA 200. For the Coil Wrapping page there are boxes to set these in, but I don't think you meant this.

Maybe set her up with a profile with ohms locked if she only uses a few different builds.

It is the temp that needs locking (hold + & - down for a few secs) not the device lock (5 clicks on fire), then the + & - buttons scroll through the profiles and you need to press fire to select one.

Try this thread /topic/66294-topic/

I replied in the other thread /topic/67291-topic/?do=findComment&comment=905590

Seems like your mod resistance is set to 0.250 ohms, I don't know what it should be for your mod but that seem very high to me. It won't do any harm reducing the value and this thread is about measuring it yourself (you must set it to 0 before measuring) /topic/65594-topic/ The cold ohms will usually be a little lower than the normal & raw you don't want to make them match.

I replied in the other thread /topic/66406-topic/?do=findComment&comment=897091

Using an external charger is fine I do with the Rolo for convenience, it is best stick to one charger so the batteries all charge to the same voltage. I think the potential shorts come from one incident with the RX200 and not the DNA 200 version. The only way you should be able to have a dead short is if you let the end of one of the back 2 batteries touch the terminal for the front one while removing or inserting them, it is unlikely to happen IMO and easily avoided.

Temp limiting is turned off, this is done on the mod by adjusting the temp past 600 F.

I didn't need to delete any of the 8 device profiles, I did change my Ti profile to use Evolv's and once the old material [profile] was not used in any device profile I could remove that. The term profile is getting confusing being used in both situations, but it is no-longer used for materials in EScribe it may take me a while to forget that usage.

The Evolv & Protovapor both have wave springs which should be the best, then the Mod Crate has a flat spring and finally the Varitubes have coils springs. They will all take up less room in you box than the FD IIRC.

IMO Evolv, Protovapor, Mod Crate and VariTube are all better than FD, but some folks like them so YMMV.