VapingBad

Where did you buy it? I can't see them on sale anywhere yet.

I get almost the same run time from both before Weal battery with 75 W preheat.

It depends a lot on the spring diameter, length and material, I get better performance with a cut down ProVari spring (mod in the show me your 75 thread pg 1) than from the flat spring holders like those and the Keystone, but I only have the spring at one end. You can bend the flat springs to increase the contact area (hard to get right) and solder the wire as close to the battery to improve them, but personally I wouldn't use them for higher power mods. My mod of the Keystone and Awsum's mod of the spring type holder will get much better results than any flat spring holder, but the ProVari spring one is very close and hard to tell the difference in everyday use.

Sorry, I get ya now, yeah not ideal

I think you need to contact the shipping service, I sometimes ship things untracked and insured, but know that is at my risk. E: I don't mean to come over as unsympathetic and I do feel sympathy for you, but if they didn't receive it...

Also a flat rubber band between the screw and driver. Not sure how tough the mod is never seen one up close, but a sharp tap on the end of the screw driver with a small hammer (tap not whack) can bot help to free the thread and get the driver tip better seated, but at you own risk.

I remember now, maybe take the board screws out one at a time can clean them with IPA or rubbing alcohol.

Which mod are you talking about? If it the board is grounded via the mount screws these may need a tweak.

It will be a connection issue, probably the 510 or ground, including the battery connections (IIRC that one has an adjuster screw in the battery cap I would check the is snug first) and it could even be the spring in the 510 or dirt, but never seen the resistance floating onn than 0.001 with the analyser in DNA 75 or 200s. Poor atty connections can cause the kind of inconsistent vape you describe to, I had one genny with N1200 ribbon sleeper coils that would do this in the morning I solved it by super tightening the negative connection, but there is a risk of stripping the thread.

When you press fire the DNA 200 pauses charging until 5 seconds after you release the fire button so it is not charging while you are vaping.

Yes it remembers the battery dipped that low, it is a little little like the temp protected message as regardless of how long the condition lasted it will flash after the puff because you can't see the screen while vaping on most mods.

If you get warnings with fuller batteries running the 26650 than 18650 it's the battery, but both should be OK and I was just trying to include all the factors. If you do feel you are getting the warnings too early I urge you to look at the battery level in device monitor because it is probably jut the initial preheat that is triggering the warning and it may be an idea to turn that down a bit for that battery. E: See the battery voltage is the black line, it sags a lot with the 75 W preheat, but quickly recovers as the power reduces to 40 W. This is a Sept 2014 Samsung 25R that has always been charged at 2 A so is by no means a top condition battery, I don't get any warnings until the resting battery voltages goes down to about 3.3 V with this set up.

I would contact the vendor and ask them to replace the board under the year warranty from Evolv it will cost you less in postage than returning to Evolv, if the vendor does not help open a ticket with Evolv http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

It sounds very much like the fuse is blown and it would be covered under the warranty.

The shock thing is shocking, no pun intended, but as you say it is just something with that mod and I hope just some of the early versions, very strange though. On that mod there is something up with the battery connection and that would explain the Weak Battery message, I do note he gets it with another mod also. Weak Battery is a warning message and not an error, you get Check Battery when there is more of a problem. It just means that the battery couldn't supply the power you asked for without sagging below 2.5 V so the board protects your battery by backing off to keep it from dropping that low, which is a good thing IMO. You may get it a little more in temp mode with the preheat at 75 W, but all it means is you just get say 65 or 70 W preheat instead and mostly you will get full wattage for the rest of the vape, have a look in device monitor to see for yourself. 75 W is a lot from a single cell and the voltage from cells with high internal resistance will sag a little more, the high mAh cell that have got popular more recently and 26650s for instance. Also if the cells are really tired they take longer to recover than cells in good condition and you will see more warnings, info message would be a better term IMO. I am having no issues with VTC4s date codded Oct 2013 and 25Rs date codded Sept 2014, I am not running at very high wattage, but I do have the preheat maxed and get good performance from both of these batteries down to around 3.15 - 3.3 V before the vape drops off. Saying that I did get more warnings before I replaced the contacts on Keystone battery sled, inadequate wiring and battery contacts will make a difference too. If you get Weak Battery on a nearly fully charged battery I think it's because your battery, battery contacts or wiring are inadequate, when the battery is getting low expect to see the warning it's a heads up that you will need to charge or change the battery. (E: I got a PM asking how to get the 18650 battery date codes and thought others might be interested https://batterybro.com/pages/18650-date-code-lookup-tool )

I would just leave it at zero as lower is safer than higher, not that it is actually unsafe just more consistent than if you over estimate the res from what I can remember reading.

IIRC they say they are using exactly the same chemistries as they do for their LiPos in the video, but it is very short on detail in that respect. It may just be terminology and by LiPo they just mean batteries not in a metal tube, who knows.

Evolv would probably change it under warranty, open a ticket and ask here http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

That's what I do, but it could be up to 0.002.

That is way too high resistance for a DNA 75, for 75 W you need to build between 0.08 and 0.48 ohm according to page 4 of the datasheet http://evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna75.pdf

When looking at the mod resistance in atomiser analyser with the tool or dead short and it reads 0.00x as you are tightening the tool and ends up displaying ? your resistance is so low that the test pulse is hitting the current limit and therefore the mod resistance is less than 2 milliohm.

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? in this situation means it is reaching the current limit and the res is less than 2 milliohm.

You need to add it to your mod first in the list on the rhs of the materials tab.

It is, I flattened the faces of the grub screws and removed the ridge in the post holes on some of my Aromamizer decks for using with twisted 2 and 2.5 mm wires. 3D clouds I find twisted Ti works very well, even the cheap FT stuff. I like this: 2 strands of 0.2 mm twisted cw, then 2 of those twisted ccw, so 4 strands in total, res is around 0.13 ohm and they vape well on DNA 40s (lower the temp 90 F), 75s & 200s.