3DClouds

Light hearted jokes don't begin with insults. I'll leave it at that.

No need for personal attacks I've been building coils ever since the protank/ego was the hot shit. I don't remember exactly when that was but it was definitely years ago. I was just stating that I know what I'm doing when it comes to coil building. I'm not trying to brag dude. For real though get out of here with the name-calling and sarcasm. Clearomizers have been around for over 3 years and I've been vaping since sometime in 2013. I don't need a time machine just saying.

What settings do you guys prefer on your preheat punch? Do you use soft or hard and for how long and how big of a wattage difference do you use? Which do you find gives the best ramp up time and smoothness and consistency of vapor? I had been using a difference of 10 watts (40 regular 50 punch) and soft (1) preheat but I have just started understanding how the preheat works and now I'm considering using a harder punch. I use TI coils and was using a lower preheat wattage to avoid burn outs in situations where the ohms might be slightly off and 50 is generally plenty to get me up to temp in 1s but I might consider changing that to 75 to make it happen even faster.

I've only been doing non Clapton single spaced coils recently trying to work out the kinks I've gone through almost 8 ft of TI trying to get things up and going and that stuff is not cheap compared to nichrome. Now that I know what my problem is and I'm confident I can throw a coil in there and it last quite a while and be accurate once I get the new screws I might have to start making some claptoned helixes or fused claptons and try some dual coils for a more permanent build. I miss the density of my nichrome dual fused claptons but I guess that's to be expected going from dual micro coils to a single spaced coil.

I have yet to cut the legs by over tightening on a TI coil its much better than NI200 in that aspect. I also have a screwdriver with an allen key set I use but those allen head grub screws like to strip before I can get it as tight as I want. It definitely is the screws as I tightened them down and it immediately asked new coil and it was the accurate reading of .35 ohm. I'm definitely ordering those slotted grub screws when I get the chance and that should solve my problems until I can get me a good single coil tank.

Honestly I don't even usually use TI claptons I just did it for giggles because the normal ones werent working out for me either but i find it actually gives me a denser vape i might need to try some 24 AWG TI soon. I also find keeping the legs as short as possible helps too and I've been coil building for years so i can do a spaced coil in my sleep so i don't think the actual coil is my problem. I frequently have times where my mod will go to sleep and when I wake it up and it will go out of temp mode. All my connections are tight and clean and my mod resistance is set to .007 so i think it could just be my CSV or maybe my TI? I use temco TI does anyone have experiences with using this and have a good CSV for it? I use them to get all my other wires so i trust them more than expensive "specialty" TI wires. Honestly im just waiting to jump the ship to the NIFE52 boat because TI has given me so many inconsistencies. I just want to stick a coil in there have and have it be stable and accurate without having to constantly fiddle with it like NI200 was for me on the DNA40. I just hate the way NI200 is to coil. TI is much easier to work with and tastes better but the accuracy has been difficult to nail down. It could be these crappy allen screws in my deck though I really need to buy those slotted ones. PS I'm pretty sure it's my crappy allen screws loosening overnight and throughout use and my TI CSV and DNA200 are working perfectly. Thanks everybody maybe there's still hope for me and TI I still might buy a pico though lol.

So i use a Velocity RDA with a single spaced 6 wrap 26 AWG TI GR1 coil claptoned with 34 AWG TI GR1 both wires cleaned with ISO alcohol before wrapping the coil. Velocity is on a VaporShark DNA 200. I have been having issues with my ohms creeping up with use from .35 ohms to about .48 ohms and i suspect it could be my RDA retaining heat from chain vaping and that affecting my base ohms when it rechecks the ohms. The Velocity is a pretty big chunk of SS and it definitely retains some heat once it gets hot. It is enough to throw my temps off by about ~240 degrees F. I had been having issues with temp control not activating but i cleaned and polished my 510 of my RDA and mod to squeaky clean and it worked perfectly at first accurately reading .35 ohms with temp control working 100% accurate but with use it slowly creeped my resistance up to .48. I can feel my atomizer is warm and i think that is the reason for the creep. If i left it set to 420 degrees when it was reading .48 ohms it would max out around ~180 degrees in use. Would there be a way to fix this? Switch to a tank maybe to ensure the chamber is a more stable temp with less SS to get hot/retain heat? The liquid in the tank should help to keep things a stable temperature as well right? Ive been looking for an excuse to buy a Pico RTA but i was wondering if others have been having this issue. Should i just be locking the ohms? I usually don't because I read somewhere it's better not to but i suspect that's highly situational advice depending on what setup you would be using correct? Obviously i could just drop my temps down to 220 but the whole point for me is for it to be actually accurate ohms/temps and I find it difficult to accurately lock the resistance because it fluctuates when i go to press the fire button 5x to lock it on the mod. I wish I could manually set the locked ohms from the mod and not have to use EScribe to do that because 1. I know the correct ohms are .35 but the mod wants to read it as higher than it is because of the temperature of the coil/RDA and 2. I am a primary Mac user and I have to use a different computer for EScribe which is inconvient for me. One day I will BootCamp Windows onto my Mac but I dont have access to a Windows OS to install as of now. I use 2/23/16 firmware 1.0.45 escribe btw if that helps.