VapingBad

Try the test firmware linked in my footer, it reduces the weak battery warnings and flashes the battery icon instead of showing the message.

Yes, the Evolv is larger and you can enlarge the hole and tap to the correct thread, the 4 holes in the top are really for a pin wrench although you could use them to bolt it down The Evolv 510 is on the rhs

No they are different the Evolv connector is half inch 20 pitch (1/2" UNF in the UK) and IIRC the FDV is 10 mm 1 mm pitch (not 100% sure of the thread pitch of the FDV).

As far as I know they don't support LiFePo batteries.

This spreadsheet has real world dimensions and watt hours /topic/65816-topic/

That's right you can't use series with the 75. VaporFlasks and the Hana One use parallel with a DNA 40. I use my old Panasonic CGR18650s in them, they are only 10 A and I have 10 of them so using them is these allows me to continue to get value from them as they are don't have enough current to run a DNA 40 or much else these days singly.

There is no fixed scheme, but identifying the ground and positive should be easy, 99% would be black and red. The plug only goes in one way so as long as you solder the socket on the right way you cannot plug it in the wrong way. The board labels these connections as GND, 1,2,3 if you want a number system.

Bill's correct, having 2 batteries in parallel in a DNA 75 will reduce the sag, but my post you quoted was looking at it from the point of view you had decided to build a dual 18650 mod and the merits of series vs parallel.

It just an appendix to my last comment Bill and not at your or any other post in particular.

18650 can expand in very extreme conditions as has been demonstrated with a couple of tube mech mods where the battery has swelled and sealed the tube at very high temps, but I don't believe it is an issue here.

18650, which is what this thread is about, don't externally.

Re SMY warranty & US service centre /topic/67324-topic/?do=findComment&comment=905944

By applet, I mean a tab on the device properties, I know it's the wrong word, this is from a Vista machine for v cheap mb's USB hubs (via mstsc), but IIRC some driver hw combinations did allow setting max current and have seen others posting the same. Later versions of windows do not have the power tab at all and the only instances I have of these are in hyper V so would not be real world hw related.

Up to Win 7 (IIRC) you could set the max USB current in control panel applet, now the setting is gone and it seems limited to 500 mA with most drivers. There have been a couple of people that posted they got the full amp, but that is rare. I think you need better USB cables Bill, unless it is in the finall stage of charging I get >490 mA from the laptop and >995 mA from USB supplies & my 2 powerbanks, but I weeded out the cables with high loss ages ago.

Wow, not too shabby in just over a year

It will probably not ever reach 1 A off a PC most of them restrict the current to 500 mA and your battery should be below 4 V. I see yours were < 4 V and current was 0 so it not those. I tend to turn this test off on the Production until as I only occasional make a mod to sell and always test it vaping for a while. Does it charge normally from a USB supply?

The spec sheet has max input voltage as 12.6 V, min 9 V & typical as 11.1 V.

The first thing is the wire gauge needs to be able to handle 55 A without getting too hot, the second is to minimise resistance for accuracy & efficiency, I would think adjusting the mod res could get good results with 12 gauge. The higher this resistance is the more power the board has to output so keeping it low is desirable. If you had the connector near the board it would be easier to switch to a thicker wire if needed.

It is hard to say and depends a lot on length, I have not attempted to build something like this so no expert at all, but personally I would look at 12 gauge silicon or ptfe insulated at the very least. I would have a short bit of 14 gauge between the board an plug, but run the majority in 12 or thicker.

On paper an XT60 would (55 A peak), I would use the thickest wire you can to keep the resistance between the board and 510 down.

The best option is to have the board in the handset, you only have to cope with less than half the current and shorter wires between the board and 510 is better. That way you only need to spec for 23 A so even an XT30 will do the job.

I have unbalances a set of batteries for my Realeaux (3.92, 3.87 & 40.3 V), it charges normally until the cells reached 4.20, 4.10 & 4.5 V and it does balance charge with the screen at 50% brightness. It is slow as I would expect and only draws up to 120 mA from the USB. The lightning bolt on the batter icon flashes some of the time. When the cells had been at 4.11, 4.06 & 4.20 V for a good while the lightning bolt stopped showing, maybe that is what you think of as Idle. It is still drawing 20 - 80 mA from the USB and the cell voltages are raising, very slowly. 12 hours after my cells were @ 4.12, 4.07 & 4.20 they have only reached 4.21, 4.16 & 4.20 and it is still balancing with screen brightness at 50%, USB current draw is up to 40 mA by a cheap USB metre. Because the charge rate is limited to that suitable for the high cell(s) and discharge of the low cell(s) is also at a low rate it takes a really long time. Balancing with one cell down 0.4 V could literately take day or more.

If you are just using one type of wire in your coils you only need the profile/csv for that metal, all the other stuff is for mixed metal coils.

Probably that you should be in a temp dominant or watts (any wire with the temp sensing box not checked) profile, then temp and watts will swap places on the screen, you don't need to change the fields.

Is maybe the resistance being refined, does the displayed res change?