VapingBad

Not with my lungs thanks, that would be 700 W in bypass with a full battery, though I'm sure there is some numpty that would proudly do a youtube video.

Never seen anyone connecting a 3S battery directly to a coil, you would need a special build to vape well at 10 - 12.6 V.

There are some clear button out there that will do the job with no effort, IIRC StealthVape.co.uk have some.

Sorry, I can't find it doing a text search in C:\Users\...\AppData\Roaming\Evolv\EScribe\Languages maybe it got missed in the internationalisation.

The charge rate would drop to very low when one or more cell is at 4.2 V. Have you checked the voltages of the cells with a multi metre to check the board is reading it correctly, if it is and it probably is I think you need a replacement battery. You could try charging the low cell on an external charger and see if it stays in balance, ChunkyButt200 has a picture of how to do that here /topic/66882-topic/?do=findComment&comment=901766

If the board does not detect the coil increase temp by 150 F in the first second it will turn off temp limiting, it also does not do preheat in the first fire of a new coil in case it is not a temp sensing wire. Your settings seem high enough maybe force new coil by disconnecting the atty and firing then take a screen shot of the first puff or two in Device monitor.

It maybe your Windows localisation setting, try changing to en-us, if so this was an old bug that I thought was fixed.

0.008 mod resistance seems high to me, I have both my 75s at 0.000 as testing they were both below 0.002, both have an Evolv 510. I would try zeroing it IIWU.

Have you subtracted the test lead res of the multimeter & what is the mod resistance set to? 0.02 should not be much of a problem unless you are sub 0.1 ohm, that only when using NiFe30 and Ni200 for me.

It is, but that is not what temp dominant does, it just makes temp the main/easy adjustment and makes Watts the secondary adjustment (lock then hold up & down).

That's refinement working out it was .587 and you shouldn't need to override ohms if that is what is on the screen when idle. IDK exactly why, but would guess that it is either resistance in the atty and connections or less likely the mod was cooler than the atty at first. You can also see room temp in atty analyser, this is normally a bit high unless the devices has been sitting for a while.

No probs and good luck it is not too hard if you just take your time.

Locking res is a last resort for connection problems, DNAs are smarter boards they track how the coils and board change temp as they cool and stabilise, this is known as refinement mode. I only use res lock with one atty that has poor connections due to poorly machined threads in aluminium in the ground path, everything else I let the board work it out. I have been doing that since Oct 14 with DNA 40, 200 & 75 and works great, but with non DNA boards (YiHi, IPV & Joyetec) I have often had to lock res to get them to work properly and consistantly.

You should be able to get the profiles back just by selecting them, but they will be very similar. I wouldn't lock res unless that is the only way to clear your problem. Sorry yes cold res too high would cause it not to reach the temp limit, my bad. Try setting your mod res back to 0.000, connecting the atty when cool and letting the board refine the resistance reading. Have a few puffs and let it rest for ten mins, repeat this a few time and it tracks the resistance and the board temp as they cool to get a more accurate value. If that doesn't do it, then it is checking the connections.

IDK know about Hana, but are you sure you need a soldering iron to swap the screen? The screen it's self connects with a ZIF socket (zero insertion force). If you open a ticket with Evolv they will probably change the screen for you http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

DNA 200 are great in power mode, they automatically go into power mode when they detect non temp sensing wire so what you describe is probably just the other mods putting out lower power than the screen says causing you to up the power on the DNA, jut turn the power down a bit. You can force power mode by adjusting the temp above 600 F if that make you more comfortable, but it is not necessary, this applies to the DNA 25, 40, 75 & 200. You can also turn temp limiting off in each profile in EScribe.

I only use the built in materials profiles for Ti and 316 (I use it for 316L as well), your preheat is quite low and although that shouldn't cause a problem it will help an weak vape. I would increase the punch a few notches and put the power to 40 to 50 W if your watts are at 25. I have not used a serpent so don't know if they have a particularly high resistance, but the rout of your problem is likely reading the cold too high. Also checking the connections are solid including battery, 510 and board/case grounding is worth trying. Probably best to stick with Ti while sorting this out with it's higher TCR.

It is perfectly fine to charge by USB.

The default setting.

No the charge chip does not provide an input current reading so the board cannot show it, it's normally around 750-800 mA.

If it was empty when you got it the battery is almost certainly damaged, it will damage the battery if they are bellow 2 V per cell, sorry not what you want to hear. You should contact the seller saying the battery was dead on arrival and you want replacement battery or mod.

I have never had a problem with them, but I don't think any of the atties I use are over long. Pushing a vernier into it I get at least 5.3 mm depth, but I'm sure it would be more as the spring is so strong and the vernier depth bar is not.

The problem is the battery not the USB, it has been over discharged and it looks like you need to replace it.

The Evolv is a lot shallower than the standard FDV or VT connector, the top is about 3 mm and the part the goes into the mod less than 8 mm. Evolv 510 The thread is 1/2"-20 threads (1/2" National Fine Thread) and requires a 29/64 hole if you tap it, or a 1/2" hole, Pin wrench 1 5/8", 4.2 1/6" mm 0.16" pins 2.36 mm inner

The battery has got discharged to below 2.5 V per cell, the battery may be ruined, but you can try a recovery charge from Device Monitor. It may take several attempts as it has a safety time limit, but after all the cells are more than 2.5 V it should charge normally.