VapingBad

They will be limiting to different wattages if the amount of vapour differs, it is the average temp of the coil and all of those factors determine how many watts are required to maintain the temp. Consider 10 wraps at 450 F will give more vapour then 8 wraps at 450 F everything else being equal, the same if you doubled the airflow or wicking you could run more watts and get more vapour at a given coil temp.

What version of Windows: Vista, 7, 8 or 10 and 32 or 64 bit?

IDK, but can happily vape ss, ti & ni at 380 - 400 F with 100% PG liquid, it depends a lot on the build + attty and for some I may go up to 420 F, if I ignore the Dicodes comparison (I don't own one) I would advise upping your coil contact area, airflow and or wicking.

It will check for the resistance rising would mean it had increased temp by 185 F in the first 2 seconds before using preheat or temp sensing so would work just like Kanthal anyway. You want to change the material type to "watts" or check "Temperature" "off" the in a profile to make it always be in power mode.

Not a full reply, just a few thing that may not be so obvious. Charge current is limited to 1 A while a data connection is open to the board (dissconn from EScribe), charge current is limited to 1 C, charge current will be reduced if the board get hot, powerbanks resetting is usually the pb maxing out and not the load. I can mostly get > 9.5 W charging with a cheap short cable and decent supply. I would select USB current, voltage and power for the charge screen fields to investigate this, my experience is voltage drop in the supply+cable is normally the limiting factor, if the charge rate drops later in the cycle it could be board temp.

Check the value for 3.94 V in the battery curve is not low, but also allow a full cycle or two to let the gauge sync.

Yes

On the Wismec check the ground screw in the battery sled is tight, normally under a white foam plug. In EScribe Options - User Interface select Advanced or Manufacture to get the Mod tab to display.

Setting the cut off so high you are telling you board to throttle back power when your battery sags to 3.2 or 3 V, I would set it to 2.75 V. You may be getting extra sag from the contacts, check they are clean and tight.

But I think you probably have a larger coil now which will take longer to get up to temperature. The material profile stays the same for a type of metal, but you may want to vary preheat for different builds, tanks or even flavours, it is far more a personal preference thing as long as you coil get up to temp fast enough.

I think retird meant a pic while you are vaping and it not doing what you expected.

The board needs to see the coil raise temp 185 F in the first 2 seconds or it will stop trying to use temp protection, try increasing your preheat.

There is no need to make a profile for that wire or any single metal construction, you just get the standard 316L/Elite profile and I would just use the in built 316 profile for 316 & 316L, the L (low carbon) makes almost no difference. Profile in OP [CODE]"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -58,0.923064 68,1 212,1.08 302,1.126 392,1.168 482,1.207 572,1.246 800,1.3369666667[/CODE] Standard SE 316L/Elite profile [CODE]"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -58,0.923064 68,1 212,1.08 302,1.126 392,1.168 482,1.207 572,1.246 800,1.3369666667[/CODE] Evolv 316 profile [CODE]"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -100,0.893702149391174 0,0.956318140029907 70,1 200,1.07169163227081 400,1.17003667354584 600,1.25565493106842 800,1.33229231834412[/CODE] The board needs to see the coil raise temp 185 F in the first 2 seconds, try increasing your preheat.

You can turn the weak battery message on or off on the display tab in Escribe, when it's off the battery icon flashes instead.

Neither matter, they will allays all be at the same current (series) or the same voltage (parallel), the only way it could matter the position of some cells were hotter than others which could cause them to ages at different rates.

As giz_60 said there seems to be a delay and there is nothing more we can set on your account than the approved status that allows you to post.

Do you have Options - Automatically check for Service Packs enabled?

No, I have had one for over a year I think and not seen that, occasionally I accidentally press fire while fitting the batteries and get an error press up or down to continue message and it always clears. I do always put the cells in in the same order, left back, right back then front and use 3 sets of VTC4s.

They designed the 200 to use LiPo packs, 18650s became a popular option a little later, but they would use the exactly the same charging params that this setting controls.

It could be a poor/dirty connection to one of the cells, the only times I have had this message is if I accidental press fire while changing batteries on a rolo. I would contact VaporShark as it is a new device.

Yes to all and they will drain to low 3 point something volts, mainly this is from the low cut off setting that is the min voltage under load where the board reduces power to protect your battery and you would never drain your batteries that low.

That's fine, they are usually specified down to 2.5 V resting voltage, they would have been around 40% charge when you got them so yes that would explain your issue.

I would think/guess it is far more likely to be differences in the battery contacts or wiring than the boards, a but more voltage sag from a weak spring, small contact area, poor ground connection or skinny wire.

That sums it up for me, if you are only getting 5-10% more vape time it is not going to change when you carry spare batteries and when you don't, so why spend much more money.

The board is 97% efficient and 3.2 V is high for the low cut off voltage for 18650s, you could safely get more vape time using 2.8 V since this is the min under load not the resting voltage, the spec had 9 V as the min input voltage. Puff length would also affect this as sag would increases with the length of the puff, but on the cut off limit the current would reduce so you are only really going to get an estimate on paper. Also allowing for efficiency you would divide by efficiency so in your example it would be /0.9 rather than *1.1, like this 50 W = (50/0.97)/9 = 5.72 A and by coincidence they all come out the same. But the HG2 will have more sage at 20 A so you will not get as much of the extra 20% capacity as you would expect, the last time I looked Mooch said HG2 and 30Q were about the same capacity as a 25R testing a DNA 75 at 50 W (58.8 W <= 21.9 A from the battery) they were about the same taking their age into consideration /topic/66169-topic/