VapingBad

That view relies on the assumption you set watts much higher than you need with temp protection and while that works fine with Evolv boards it gives a far poorer vape with the boards that use pulse time modulation to average the temperature. It is also generally bad practice IMO because if you fit a coil with a lower TCR and forget to change your settings or there is a connection fault you can run far more power that you would wish through your coil, I have anti lock breaks on my car, but I still avoid breaking hard if the front wheels are not straight. Evolv designed the DNA 40, 200, 75, 250 & 60 to protect you from exceeding a set temperature expecting most vapers to set the watts to the watts they want to vape at so spending most of the time below this limit, just hitting it if airflow or wicking decreased. But lots of us ended up setting things so we vape at that limit, but even them preheat still allows you to safely reduce the preheat time especially with bigger coils that need a lot of power to heat and far less to stay at temp. I always have far higher watts set in preheat than in the main power setting, this can be as different as 200 and 50 W and without preheat it would take longer for the coils to come to temp. You could also set preheat to heat your coil more slowly if you wanted. It started that way to give the best experience coming from how people vaped before temp protection and this is as valid now as it was then, and for people who just blindly max the watts it still give more flexibility for fine tuning. Punch is how close it gets to temp before switching from preheat to temp protection with (IIRC) 0 meaning within 165 F and 11 within 10 F, but it you have the watts and preheat watts set the same or less than the watts or the watts far higher than you vape at you have effectively undermined the preheat punch setting so are unlikely to notice a difference.

Nice, if number 4 is bad you can always run it over

I would still get a replacement jimbow, lots of people have them working so you must just have been very very unlucky, note the serial number of the one you send back to make sure they don't just sent it back to you.

It has flash memory like a sd card or USB memory key.

It should go back up to 1.9 A if you click disconnect in EScribe, it is just a limit while there is data on the lines.

It may be the plastic rings around the positive battery contacts are stopping you get a good contact. If you have some thin magnets you could try those on the positive of the VTC5s to confirm if that is your issue, if it is you could either return the mod or file a little of the plastic off until the batteries fit.

No, as BL said no little battery for settings.

No.

No probs, honestly try triple twisted when you get a chance.

It is getting inconsistent res readings, I have only seen the myself a couple of times and both were cured by tightening the coil screws. The tightness will change as the metal expands and contracts with heat cycles, complicated builds are more susceptible and with the low tcr of ss a small change in res makes a large difference. Where I mentioned shorting in the my previous post think hot spots.

Most likely a connection issue, check the coils are clamped down well, or possibly the coil loops or the different wires are shorting between each other when they get hot, also the in built 316 profile should be good for that no need to go to SE. Try triple twisted when you get a chance it is far more reliable than claptons with great flavour.

Maybe the three resistors across the balance pins would fool the monitoring, there is an old thread on this here somewhere.

You need to make sure it is not selected in any profile before removing it.

It seems you would be better with more punchy batteries, I don't have any of those LGs but if they have been ran hard it is quite possible they have degraded enough to struggle at 35%. 60 W on a DNA 133 is not running that hard only 30 W per cell, only maxing at 11 A, if they are new are you sure they are genuine LGs?

I would think just connecting a DC 4.2 V > 32 A PSU to the board battery connections, IIRC the 200/250 mode is to bypass monitoring the balance connections.

If you can post you are as approved as we can make you, there seems to be a delay in the forum software that we have no control over.

The soft cell cut-off is set on the mod tab, it doesn't show as such in DM, IIRC you already said yours was set to 2.8 V so look in DM to see if one cell is sagging that low when you take a puff. If it is just one cell swap their position and see if the same cell # in EScribe is sagging to 2.8 V then it is that connection, if it swaps to the other cell (the same battery) in EScribe it's the physical battery. If both are sagging that low it could be weak batteries or connections, those LGs aren't the punchiest battery but they should have no trouble at 60 W at 50% charge.

Just vape while it is connected.

Have EScribe Options - User Interface set to Manufacture. Just get a dripper deck and make a coil that will not get too hot, I make 4 parallel loops of 0.5 mm Kanthal around the size of a tennis ball that is good for 50 W test, you can go larger, but I wouldn't go much smaller. Put this in your mod with fully charged batteries, make sure it is standing up somewhere where it will not get knocked and the coils are not near anything that could get damaged by heat, then start the test the power level you like to vape at. You can record it to a csv file and then look at the detail in Device Monitor later, but this is not necessary. When the test finishes choose accept result, then the Save CSV button the save the battery profile.

Did you look at the cells under load (when firing) in Device Monitor to see if one is hitting the 2.8 V cut-off?

Isopropyl Alcohol, Rubbing Alcohol, Electronics Contact Cleaner or Mentholated Spirits and a clean rag.

Firstly by cleaning the contacts then just checking for anything loose.

It could be the batteries are not making very good contact look at the cell levels in Device Monitor when firing to see if one is hitting the 2.8 V cut off.

Well done enumerating the list!

Not sure this is your issue, but preheat only switches on after the board is sure it is a temp sensing coil, so never the first time after a new coil or reset.