VapingBad

Yes and Yes, for PSU just choose PSU as the battery type, you can also use resistors to fake a battery and there is at least one thread with details here somewhere for over a year ago, it will be about a 200 but apart from a bit more current it's the same for this.

He may not have any of those and may have to go buy some batteries to test two csv just for you, one of which is from elsewhere, which you could do yourself just as easily, we are not paid, we don't have a lab and don't get expenses you know. Sorry I may be being a bit OTT and you probably meant no offence, but we are just volunteers and vapers like the rest of you, we have jobs and families and will not always be able to answer your questions or even answer the ones we can quickly.

I find the temps the same (Ni, Ti & SS), but with higher wattage or larger coils that benefit from the extra preheat grunt the 200 & 250 have definitely have an edge. Also 75s tend to run from a single 18650 or worse a 26650 that have far less grunt and more voltage sag than 3s cells which can suffer if the battery connections are poor, but a good 18650 with good connections works very well.

It's just physics, a material with very low TCR which is an alloy that can vary between batches and inconstant resistance between the board and coil(s), it doesn't happen to me with SS (I use StealthVape SS). This can be problem atties, 510s, wiring or build and can be challenging to track down as due to the very low TCR milliohms count. The ss regulation has improved beyond all recognition since that post from a year and a half ago you quote with the release of version 1.2. SS is the most marginal material we use, Evolv realised this from the get go (see Brandon's comments on it on Busardos into to the DNA 40 video) they tried to avoid it and didn't even include the profile with the early 200 fw. But it is very popular so they have provided an excellent material profile and continued to improve the ss experience and since the first version of the 75 and since V1.2 (July last year IIRC) on the 200 ss has been as good and reliable as other materials for me and I using triple twisted dual build. Claptons etc are more difficult to get consistent, but again that is just the physics of the coils the board has to work by the resistance it reads.

Looks like a bad thermistor unless it is really -40 F where you are, if so the board needs replacing, as it a 250 it will be under warranty.

It has only ever happened to me a hand full of times and been either a original wrong cold res or connection issue. I have about a dozen different DNAs and I have been exclusively vaping in temp mode since the DNA 40 came out. It is not a common problem with the board, not a problem with the board at all. Evolv have increased the margin before it drops out of temp control, it was originally 185 F increase in first second and now 185 F in the first two seconds.

I always use 11 (turns ph off 10 F before hitting temp), but it's personal start with 7 and experiment, see if you like 9 more of less than 7.

M4ddoxX it going OFF in temp mods is the board not seeing the coil temp raise 185 F in the first 2 seconds. This can be a few things, not enough power for you coil (preheat is not active at this point), locking the cold res too high, connection issues (inc board grounding and dirt) and build issues.

A long shot, is the board temp showing a high value, occasionally the thermistor fails and false high temp reading would reduce charge current.

What is the USB voltage on the DNA screen?

That would be right if any of the cells are almost full, the Wh were set very very low or the board was hot. I would check your cell levels first, then put USB voltage and current and board temp on the charge screen optional fields as if the USB voltage drops too low it can only pull moderate current from the supply, it also helps selecting the best cable and supply.

The screen cable has got trapped under the fire button and damaged, you should open a warranty claim to get it repaired or replaced.

You can load any old fw that came with EScribe, but charging did not change.

They are inductors and not really a DIY solder job, if your mod is in warranty you should be able to get an exchange.

I never managed to find any, I used some microbore copper tube to make my own, but they are not threaded I had to use long m1.6 screws and tap the case /topic/65689-topic/?do=findComment&comment=888971

Still working

Try Device Monitor - Diagnostics - Enabled USB Charging

They have always been ultra expensive to the UK as they only offer the fully insured USPS parcel service, I have looked at buying from them several times and could never get the numbers to work.

lol SinnerWaynoe

No that is the current at the 510, at the battery you need 62/0.85 = 73 W and when the battery is at 3.4 V the board would be drawing 21.5 A. Theoretical max load if your low cut off is 2.75 V for 62 W the current requirement would be 26.5 A, for 75 W this would be 32.01 A. As the battery voltage drops more current is required to provide the power. Hope that helps.

If that drop is at 75 W preheat the battery would be at 26 A @ 3.4 V 75/0.85 = 88.23 W, I = P/V = 88.23/3.4 = 25.95 A

I have never found high preheat to cause any problems and I tried hard with loads of ss profiles, from what I have seen it make virtually no difference to the smoothness of regulation, but really improves your vape experience. I would advise people not to set watts much higher than you vape at (protects you if you fire with the wrong wire profile) and double that value for preheat watts, punch 11 and ph time 2 s YMMV. I also get my ss from StealthVape and completely agree with what blacklace said: "if a coil material is causing so much headach, i would be questioning have i been sold garbadge... and looking at my coil building". IMO the Karloz spike (tiny bump) is most likely the effect of the way heat is spreading and building up in the coil and build specific.

You are not drawing 10 A, the board efficiency is 85% so 48 W at the 510 requires 56.5 W from the battery (48/0.85) and at 3.4 V that would be 16.6 A (56.5/3.4). That drop does seem very excessive and getting it with other batteries I would suspect contact resistance (dirt or weak spring) or resistance in the electrical path between the battery and board like cold solder joint or if it has a common ground loose board mount screws etc.

orso83 assuming your battery is connected OK (if you have a metre check the voltage at the battery lead) I would contact your vendor and demand a replacement mod or battery if it has stayed at 0 V for much time it's capacity will be reduced, it could even be dead. If that is not an option in Escribe - Options - User Interface - choose Advanced then try USB Recovery Charging from the Tools - Diagnostics menu, this may take several goes as it is time limited for safety.

Just bridge the highest pin with the unused connection point. [CODE] Bridge 2 & 3 on the board Board -ve |GND| 1 | 2 | 3 | +ve Battery -ve | 0 | 1 | 2 | +ve [/CODE]