Spector NS5 RD

you have the correct settings for your specific battery correct? wh's 3cell, Li, soft cut off? could you have a loose connection somewhere between the battery and board (balance connector, main + -) do the cells voltages bounces around if you wiggle the battery wires while watching in device monitor? i've never heard of this issue before. maybe someone else has and found a fix.

i thank you james and my chuwi tablet thanks you.

two questions for you. 1) do you notice a significant difference between the SSV and tempco brand? in terms of flavor, temp stability, and durability? 2) do you find contact coils perform better, worse, or the same for Ti TC? i find slightly spacing all of my coils, even kanthal, seem to last longer. in terms flavor being muted due to contact coils. my theory is the tiny spaces in spaced coils don't allow the crud to build up around the coil and choke off, or choke in, the vapor as the coils racks up mileage.

thanks macz i had to scale down all my apps to the tiniest size. then and only then i am able to see the action tab. i swear i need a magnifying glass just read escribe when it's scaled down that much, lol. at least i know now that if i need to gain access to the action tab it is technically possible albeit the tiniest escribe i have ever seen, lol.

that sucks for me, i'm using an 8 inch windows tablet. 'actions' no where in sight! my tablet screen does not let me scroll horizontally in escribe. up and down scroll but no horizontal. oh well......guess it's time to get a real desk top.

good point i just looked and noticed as well they took it away or i just can't find it. the box that lets you input your own TCR value is no more? that's a bad move. it was so nice to be able to just throw a tcr value in and call it good. i was hoping for a tcr adj from the mod itself, TBH. like joyetech, yihi, or sxk.[/QUOTE] You can change the TCR under the Materiel tap. Mark one of the material and you get the values up and can then change TCR there.[/QUOTE]my man flem! edit..... i spoke too soon. ok so i go into materials tab, then select a material from "available materials", where is the option to change the tcr? all i have at the bottom is the 'move' 'split' 'delete'. where's the 'action' tab? to make this clear, i'm using the new escribe james just put out a couple hours ago. i realize the old escribe had this. but i can't find it on the new escribe.

good point i just looked and noticed as well they took it away or i just can't find it. the box that lets you input your own TCR value is no more? that's a bad move. it was so nice to be able to just throw a tcr value in and call it good. i was hoping for a tcr adj from the mod itself, TBH. like joyetech, yihi, or sxk.

yes, 2016-02-10 mine doesn't say hold to change power. however, after the message 'hold to change temp' it does let me adjust the watts where i would normally adj my temp.

thanks james, can't wait! EDIT...i don't know if you're taking feedback yet but, in temp dominant mode it still says 'hold to change temp' when you're actually changing the watts. this is just for us to play around with and a polished version will come out later?

looks nice chad. birds eye maple with mahogany?

someone else besides me has to start replying.........lol here, look through this thread you can get an idea of what you'll run into when replacing the 510. /topic/67734-topic/

you're definitely not going to get a response from any chinese company around this time of the year because of the chinese new year. i think about one more week and they'll be back to work. evolv is great with honoring the warranty of the board. you might have to desolder the board from the mod or evolv may have you send the entire mod in. either way i hope you get it sorted.

I am having the exact same issue, only on a Vaporshark DNA200. I have not been able to get any temp control wires to work, neither spaced not contact, EXCEPT for 316L 26g wire. I've been trying tonight to get some sweet spot titanium wire working, and am using their CSV files, with no luck still. I am going to try the fix when I am able to swap back to temp coils (decided to pop some Ni80 coils in) but am hesitant because I read on another post that the method was thought to be the cause of another user's fuse blowing on his board or something? It doesn't seem like there is anything that would cause any problems though so I'm thinking it was just coincidence? But has anyone else been having similar issues, or are there any other solutions that people have found? PS - one detail I forgot to mention is that when my resistance is locked, it will occasionally become spontaneously unlocked without me doing anything, or the resistance will change even while locked. Is this normal? What is the correct use for resistance locking, as I have read a few posts suggesting that it is not meant to be used every time you vape temp control [/QUOTE]if it's dumping you out of temp control with all wires, it's most likely a connection issue, a crazy high base resistance that does not reflect the actual base res of your coil. could be anything from the atty you're using to the stability of the 510 connection to how your wire leads are trapped in your atty. if your base res shifts one way or the other even while locked it means you're no longer in temp mode and regular power mode. it will not lock your base res in power mode. find out how stable your build is by opening up atty analyzer and watch your raw ohms as you fiddle with the atty i.e. wiggle it, tap the mod, tap your wire lead ends where they tie into the atty, etc. mod resistance also should be set correctly for an accurate base res reading. you also need to make sure you're using the correct wire CSV/or TCR value for the specific wire you are using. make sure you're in the right profile for the correct wire type you're trying to TC.

look through this thread. /topic/66226-topic/ the vt133 being recently released, might not have a lot of acquired data here in this forum yet. but the calculated watt hours for 2 3000 mah 18650's at 7.4 volts comes out to 22.2 watt hours. i would say you'd be able to get 20-21 real world watt hours from them. i strongly suggest learning how to run battery analyzer for your specific batteries. /topic/65611-topic/

do some tests with what you just described with device monitor open pay attention to certain things like wh drain of the battery, the amps being pulled by your atty during. i don't know if higher this and lower that will make that much of a noticeable difference. you figure no matter what it's energy in and energy out minus losses from the board. pretty much what vapingbad said, it depends on your style of vaping.

honestly it sounds like a hard short somewhere. maybe a stray piece of copper wire is somewhere it doesn't belong? maybe a something like, what i call, "solder free floaters." that have worked their way into the charging circuit portion of the board. can you shine a light into the usb port on your dna and see if anything like that is inside of it?

what do mean correct settings? it should come configured for dual 18650's from hcigar. or do you mean the battery curve for two lg hg2's?

the dna charging circuit should only draw one amp while charging. provided your power source is capable of providing at least one amp. i'd say ditch that cigarette lighter usb charger. it could be faulty. your usb cord could as be damaged causing a hard short blowing the fuse in the charger. ditch both to be on the safe side. try an actual wall mount (wall wart) usb charger that is rated for at least one amp on the output and different usb cable.

while connected to escribe go into device monitor. in the lower right hand corner will be your firmware version. my screenshot is of the latest firmware. here's the link to the page with the firmware updates. first link at the top of the page is the latest. /topic/66731-topic/

i don't know if this could be your problem but with SS's small TCR you really want your base res to be as high as possible, when building coils. you want you connections to be as solid as can be in an atty suitable for rock solid stability. turn your preheat completely off. lock your ohms. take a screen shot of device monitor with these boxes checked and take a few vapes so we can see what's going on.

you'll regret working with solid copper. stranded silicone coated wire is by far the way to go. solid copper will not add any benefits in our applications.

does escribe recognize the mod? can you connect? what happens when you unplug and plug the batt back in? edit: i responded to your first post and you never reposted..sooooooo

what i do when cleaning my Ti coils. 1) remove old cotton 2) have a little cup of cold water 3) take mod out of tc and into reg vw mode. set at 15 watts. 4) fire the coils until they glow a dark red, anything brighter and a ti dioxide layer forms, ruining the coil. 5) when coil is red, while still holding the fire button, dunk the coils into little cup of water quenching the coil. shocks the crust right off the coil. i do this "quenching" method as many times as i need to get crust off my coil. it works surprisingly well. i've had the same dual Ti coils (cotton changed every 4-5 tankfuls) in my goblin mini for over 9 months now. vapes just as well from when i first put them in, i think. i don't exactly remember how good the flavor was on day one, but it's still good today!

good attitude to have Mod. i'm also confident you'll get your opus back up and running again.

i can't speak for SSV Ti but i can say regular grade 1 Ti works just as good and it's cheaper per foot. i bought a 15 ft spool of 26g spider silk by envy. i overpaid for the wire, that's for sure. i however, set up an atty with it and leave it. i just change the cotton and clean the coils. i bought that spool, they call it a puck, back in may of 2015 and still have more than half of the wire left. i don't use nickel anymore. most of my rta's and rda's have Ti builds in them. a couple have nife48/52 and a couple have SS builds. not a fan of SS that much except for the fact i can run it in power or TC mode.