Spector NS5 RD

my mistake, i gave you the watt hours for a HCigar VT200. i don't own a vtbox200. sorry.

don't know if this has already been suggested but......in device mon what happens when click 'reset usb current limit' under the diagnostics tab? or you type in 500 in the 'set usb current limit' option?

sounds like the fire button is starting to fail. as for the finish peeling off that's what VS's do. the two i have (dna40) have always been sleeved so the finish is still perfect. still under warranty? i'd say don't give up yet. give it one more shot with the VS dna200. it's the only dna200 board out there with on board 2 amp charging, which is a plus on my book. also, look into a silicone sleeve for the new one.

here's a bunch of info and curves. just erase the TXT and put CSV to make it work for escribe. i suggest you run battery analyzer for your OWN batteries. makes it that much more accurate than someone elses curve. /topic/65604-topic/

looks correct hard to tell for 100% sure from the pics. have you looked at this thread? /topic/67162-topic/?do=findComment&comment=904565

the test runs at 40 watts default, which can be changed up or down. it doesn't constant fire the atty. it's ten seconds on and ten seconds off. it fires, then it waits for the battery voltage to settle, then fires again. i used 4 loops of 22 gauge kanthal. each loop 13 inches. in a velocity clone. don't worry about the drain on your batts, remember the dna200 only draws 25 amps max from the batts since it's a buck converter. depending on the wattage you run the test at it could take less than an hour to a couple hours. i'd just leave it at the default 40 watts. just remember to not walk away too while it's testing. and you'll be fine. it's safe to run as long as you have safety in mind.

ya i don't think they're missing. i just think with the way these ic's come and reflowed from under the chips combined with the conformal coating, you're not gonna see the solder connections that well. i'm going to rule out broken or missing pin outs.

The 2 middle pins on the bottom right side of the chip are either missing or tucked under the chip. Its bottom right if you you hold the board vertical with the usb port at the bottom.[/QUOTE]this is what it should look like.

that square chip you're referring to is called "host controlled analog front end" (i think i'm right) it's job is to monitor, balance, protect, the battery pack. pretty much the heart of the charging circuit on the dna 200. if you can get a good picture of all four sides that could help to see if any legs crapped up. if that's the case, you're def looking at an rma.

great! 27.8 is a healthy watt hour. tons of vape time!

well it's looking more and more like an rma situation. sorry to say it, but you're confirming correct voltages at the taps and mains on the board, it sounds like something that cannot be fixed by you. if it were me, i would see how the boards with a pack directly soldered to the board, taps and mains. i'm out of ideas.

i was gonna say solder the balance leads from your old lava battery directly to the board. and see if that corrects the problem

from what i can see nothing looks misplaced to me. i would rma the board back to evolv. not unless someone else comes up with any ideas. if a cell's voltage is fluctuating, sounds like a bad connection somewhere (intermittent connection).

pack seems good. have you tried a hard reboot. reinstall your firmware? do you know where to look for knocked off resistors or other components? it can be very hard to see and catch everything since they're so small. let me see if i can find the pic with the resistor knocked off the board.....

why don't you run battery analyzer? at the end of the test it'll create a csv discharge curve and input the correct watt hours for those exact batteries you tested. you'll notice that after running the test, the curve will be different for a 18650 compared to a lipo. lipo's drop off sharply when they get to the end of their charge. not as much with 18650's. thats why i say run the analyzer for best/most accurate results.

1.) a decent soldering iron, nothing fancy, a 40 watt will do. some rosin core solder and some electronics safe flux paste/liquid 2.)i'm not familiar with the lavabox's 510, but if there is a nut holding the 510 in place you can buy a 510 ground ring terminal and solder onto that. then from that to the board. 14 awg stranded silicone is a good wire to use for 510 connections with the dna 200. 3.) lavabox battery threads - http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/search?keywords=lavabox+battery&searchin=message&member=&do=findposts&id=&replies=atleast&numreplies=0&daterange=0&custdatefrom=&custdateto=&sort=&order=desc&radio_showas=threads&btnSearch=Search&action=doSearch

the stock oem schruter fuse is a slow blow right? i'm pretty sure it is.

yes soon.........hang in there.

what are you looking for exactly @avan? if it's just the watt hour, i got 11.28 wh's from my lipo pack. i recommend you running battery analyzer yourself for an accurate meter.

submerged? as in downed in eliquid? i've got SS, nife, Ti, and Ni. for some reason, whenever i get a new rta/rda i put a Ti build in it to start off. Ti just behaves for me. SS has been gaining favor with me lately. i'll probably do a few more builds with SS in the future.

Thanks, Nick. Is there any place, as of now, that has these oleds in stock? whether it be for the DNA40 or the DNA200? Thanks.

same here, using a windows tablet. not as great as a laptop or desk top but géts the job done.

do your up and down buttons still adjust the wattage/temp up and down? spill any eliquid near the buttons? any debris in between the button actuators? do the buttons still have an audible click to them and can you feel the click when you depress and release the buttons?

under the special tab. you can also input a TCR value here (which i find easier) . all you need is the correct value for the wire type you are using ie - Ti, Ni200, nife, SS

sweet! great job!