Spector NS5 RD

sorry, i'm having a hard time understanding your posts. youre saying the mod was not being used when this happened? the mod doesn't always need to have the fire button pressed for it to short out. it can happen just sitting there. all it takes is for the right circumstances for the short to happen.

yep, you fried that mosfet. definitely need a new board.[/QUOTE] any idea why ?[/QUOTE]there's a couple of theories on how it could of fried. as black lace stated in his post, if there was a stray piece of wire (one tiny strand of copper is all it takes), it could of found a spot on the board where there was no conformal coating and hard shorted. sometimes when soldering, a tiny blob of molten solder will fling off of the iron tip or the pad you're soldering and roll around inside of the enclosure, eventually finding it's way to the board shorting out a section. a direct atty hard short i.e. super low resistance, poor soldering at the GND and Out pads creating a hard short. pretty much anything conductive, creating a hard, will fry electronics.

yep, you fried that mosfet. definitely need a new board.

see if you can RMA the board back to elvolv or opus.

/topic/66731-topic/ first page first link.

your charging brightness is set at 0. set it at 50 or higher. lol, this question is asked so many times. don't worry i had to ask the same question when i got my first dna 200.

escribe does not recognize the device? feel comfortable enough to open the mod up and disconnect the batt then reconnect? if it won't turn on could be a fuse but should still connect to escribe. if it's still under warranty send it back.

what have you input for your watt hours? my vt200 came out to around 11.27 WH's. yours should be around the same (give or take a WH). have you tried to remove and reconnect the battery (or a hard reboot?)? reflash the newest firmware. what does device mon look like when charging? specifically the usb current voltage etc? one more question, do you get massive battery sag on any of the lipo cells, when firing the vt200, in device mon?

Sometimes I fell we need a "Like" button. This is one of them.[/QUOTE]that's friggin crazy. i was thinking the same thing when you backed me up on how the dna does charging. i was gonna quote your post where you said you agreed on the way it charges and only type in quotes " chunkybutt200 like your post" as joke. but ya, how about that for custy service! 'send us the board OR the mod" and you know they have a pile of mods from people sending the entire unit in. sweet deal i tell ya.

The battery cell 2 looks bad, see how much more the voltage drops than the other 2 cells, it is just possible there is a connection issue, but I think the battery is much more likely to be the issue and IMO the next step is to replace battery if you built it or return the device.[/QUOTE]bad lipo pack my friend. replace. battery analyzer is not what the name implies. it should be battery watt hour analyzer. all the battery analyzer does is give you the usable capacity, in watt hours, of your battery by discharging it. at the end of the test, the analyzer will tell you the watt hours of your battery which you then input for your battery meter to make it accurate.

i wouldn't put too much stock into hallmarks on he bottom of anything coming from china. cheap clones i own even have the whole gambit of "certifications". i just assumed if it had ce on the product and it came from china it stood for China Export! lol

i could be wrong but i'm pretty sure the dna does regular charging (12.6 v) through the main + and - then discharges higher cells through the tiny black resistors on the board. so not balance charging but rather balance discharging.

Yes, I see this on different wires, factory SS coils (and different atty's). It is imho really the TC regulating the power (to hold the setpoint temperature) that is erratic. Please, please post a screenshot of the device monitor of this (if it is really regulating to maintain the temperature and not putting out the set power for the duration of the puff). A TCR/csv that is slightly off only results in an offset between actual and measured temperature and will not cause the erratic behavior. (The mod doesn't know the actual temperature, only knows what it measures and what TCR/TFR values are put in its memory. That's why you can for example do TC on a Ti coil with a mod that only has a nickel setting). Well, if it is too inaccurate for true TC and vendors are pushing SS coils and the SS option in their mods as the latest and greatest, it would be good to know the true story. It will save a lot of headaches for vapers starting with SS.[/QUOTE]to save time. yes SS sucks. out of the many other TC wires i.e. Ni, Ti, NiFe, tungsten, etc., SS is the next above kanthal. if i took a screen shot it'll look jumpy. SS has the tiniest tcr out of the better choices for tc wire. you'll never get a steady line in dm with ss. but i don't notice it during the vape.

have you tried the usual/easiest possible remedies yet? Hard Reboot and re-flash the newest firmware, both from escribe. is this a vt200?

you're not alone when it comes to being a novice with comps. i sometimes find myself reaching for a hammer when it comes to computers. i will TRY to help whoever with whatever i can. there are some people that know their way around PC's in this forum - VapingBad - is one of them.

have you tried a good SS? i can reach my set temp and the the vape is fine. with the right tcr/csv, there should not be a 100° error. as for reviewers doing SS with an osc., when you find one let me know. i don't know if there is anything to "debunk" about SS. however, i agree it is the crappiest wire out of the many TC wires that are out there. i much prefer Ti over any other that's my go to wire. but it is what it is with SS small TCR makes that board work extra hard to maintain a set temp.

lets say you know what 500°F feels like because that's the temp you vape at with other wires. i would bump up the TCR little by little until it feels like 500. this is assuming the tcr was too low to begin with and you have solid connections. nail down a single coil vaping great first then work up to duals. a specific cold res is not important as long as you're within the dna's range.

you can wait for hcigar to respond or desolder the board yourself. then open a ticket with evol. what did you set at 11.1? watt hours right? have you - done a hard reboot? reinstall the LATEST firmware? made sure your xt30 connector and jst xh balance connector are firmly in place? what do your cell and pack voltages look like in device monitor. if the cells are very low you can try "USB Recovery Charging". this function may need to be performed more than once. here's a screen shot of my vt200 battery settings and what my battery looks like in device monitor.

[/QUOTE]bottom right hand corner of device monitor in escribe. i am running the latest.

I think there are success stories with 316/317 but there are also a lot of people vaping it in VW mode, and some probably do think they are in temp mode. The TCR of these is so low that you have to have a significant coil and a near perfect atomizer along with a base resistance figure in the escribe setup to get it right. The DNA200 is the only chip that will let actually see how it is scrambling to use it in TC mode.[/QUOTE]i agree with that entire paragraph, lol. if any other board manufacture had a device monitor style live view of what the board has to do to accommodate SS's tiny TCR, you would most definitely see the chip trying it's hardest to maintain a set temp, aka "the Rocky Mountain peaks and dips" of the temp, wattage etc lines. funny thing is, if you know what you're doing, you can get a very decent vape out of 316L. i find, i completely turn off the preheat feature in escribe. i input a TCR value of .00092 instead of a csv curve. then i build my coil (spaced then dry burned to work out hot spots) and make sure the coil leads are secure under the screw heads (i loop the entire wire around the bottom of the screw head, essentially making an eyelet out of the wire ends). wick then fill tank, or rda. set my temp to say......520-550°F. 25-30 watts. vape it once. let sit for a while so refinement does it's job. then lock my ohms after the board has refined my res as low as it can be. then fine tune with wattage/temp until i get the vape i want. works every time. i use UD 316L. all of this is under the assumption you have an atty that has as few connection points as possible and a solid 510 pin. the Lemo, Lemo Drop, and Lemo 2 are not so good, as they have a removable base, for any TC wires. IMO.

Bumping this thread to ask this again. I'm just waiting on some wire before I perform the swap, but I want to include reverse polarity protection - how do I go about this? Should I use PNP MOSFETs, and if so where? Presumably one at the positive end of the series connection running to the board, but what about the balance connections? Or would it be simpler to modify the battery sled to have the rings?[/QUOTE]read through this thread, it may help you. /topic/67525-topic/?do=findComment&comment=907767

here's the batt orientation cell 1 in my relo always acts a tiny bit funny. sometimes while firing it'll drop more or less than the other two cells. i've come to accept this as normal. they equal out after a few seconds of releasing the fire button. no cause for concern unless one battery has severe voltage drop compared to the others when firing. make sure in escribe under manufactures settings, you have have maximum puffs highlighted and not maximum recharges. to fully charge your batts. 27.75 is the calculated value for your 25r's. you'll never extract that amount from your batts. it'll be closer to 25-26, somewhere around there. i strongly suggest learning how to run battery analyzer to get the most out of your device read through these threads: /topic/67176-topic/ /topic/65611-topic/

here come the million questions......does the mod still charge via usb cable? at the full 1 amp? what happens when you're in device monitor then screw on an atty? does the device stay connected? i'm not sure on how the smy dna is wired, as in how good of a job they did soldering, using connectors, and routing the 510 and batt wires. does it vape at all? just the screen glitches or the entire device fails to fire? i ask these questions because it sounds like something is shorting out when you screw on an atty. as for the battery fluctuating, janky connection? i don't know if smy used connectors or hard soldered the battery and taps directly to the board. not sure if you're comfortable doing this but, i think you have to peel up the carbon fiber to get at the screw underneath to open the device. you can check for worn through wires, bad soldering, etc. Safest option is to send it back to the vendor you purchased it from. one more thing.......when in device monitor, with all the battery boxes checked (cell 1 2 3 and pack), what happens if you tap the mod fairly hard?

open a ticket with evolv for an RMA form. here's how the zif socket opens.

what do ya think? about 550°F and a 200 watt preheat for 10 seconds good enough for an automotive starter motor? we'd have to update the dna firmware to allow for a resistance in the range of the starter motor's amature windings, lol