Spector NS5 RD

do the pastel VTBOX 200's have a rubberized coating? i like the blue one. as for problems with the vtbox, i think they have most if not all the bugs worked out of their design by now. my only word of caution is dealing with gearbest. i've heard from countless people their customer service, well........sucks.

i'm always worried when i go into .0X ohm range. i worry i'll end up with a broken board. so i tend to stay at or above .1 ohm range. don't want to snap the timing belt or blow the dna's head gasket. just me being overly cautious.

only vaporshark have the proprietary rights to 2 amp charging, or so i'm told in an email from VS a couple weeks ago. i was also told in that email the new S Body Nuke will only have 1 amp charging. some reviewers got a Nuke mod with the 2 amp VS board. VS said that was a mistake that has been corrected in future mods.

i have 24 and 26 gauge nife48/52. it's good wire. IMO, it takes awhile for it to break in. once it dos the flavor is good. i'd recommend getting the nife48 over the nife30. it has higher resistance so you can do dual coils. titanium however, is still my #1 wire for builds.

can you connect to escribe? what are each of the cell voltages and total voltage (pack voltage)? can you take a screen shot of device monitor while mod is connected and post here?

i'm sure volcano ecigs has a return policy as your device is only two months old. does it fire when plugged into the usb? what i'm asking is, are you using the usb just to wake the device up, then disconnect the usb and vape?

what mod do you have this problem with? if it is a lipo mod and you have a cell below 1 volt, you will most likely need a replacement lipo, as recovery charge will not work when a cell falls below 1 volt. i would double check each cell in the pack with a trusted multi meter to make sure you have a dead cell in the pack.

so does this tank contain a heating element with a decent tcr or not????? they show dude picking a temp, then going into power mode???? what the heck????

i have the ccell ni200 coils and have been using them in my atlantis on my dna 200's. they say they're rated at .2 ohm but mine and one other person i know of read around .17 ohm. this can make the vape somewhat anemic even at 600°F. so i tend to override the ohms in escribe to .18 ohms to get the vape i like. there should be no need for a special wire tcr or csv curve for these coils. evolv's stock ni200 profile works just fine with these heads.

would love to see board layout. especially boards components. also curious if the board will invert the output voltage like the DNA 40.

link me. i would love to see what that is all about.

you should run battery analyzer for your specific batteries if you want an accurate battery meter. here's a link for a thread that might have some useful info. /topic/65604-topic/

every post i have read regarding the panzer has been generally favorable. rubberized paint, one of the few dna 200's with a large capacity lipo. some have said the only con would be the shape or design. however, looks are subjective. have you considered the SMY SDNA 200? large capacity lipo, comes set up with different wire profiles, mod res, case thermals and batt analyzer have all been done and SMY now have a USA based warranty center. just some food for thought........

are you vaping it in power or tc mode? since the crown coils are SS, the ohms will rise from .25 when firing in power mode. that is normal. if you're saying your COLD resistance is .35 then sounds like a connection problem somewhere = coil, coil base, dirty, loose 510 etc. check and see what the mod resistance is set to in escribe. i think VS set it to 0.002? another trick = 'hard reboot' from escribe. do you have other mods to get a resistance reading from the coil in question? i know my .5 crown coils read as .52 in TC.

this what i found for a BLUE (same for WHITE) led mitec switch. supply voltage (pack voltage)=12 diode forward voltage= 3.2 diode forward current=28mA. i would open a ticket with evolv to make sure on what resistors you need, if any, for your led switch. your post (#22) is the correct wiring diagram.

can you put the 1300 next to the 900 for comparison? thanks.

the rx200 board is almost a replica of the dna 200. at least on the converter side. i saw in a post on the rx200 and dna200 share the same sled wiring configuration. so your assumption is correct. only difference is wismec bridged the two outer most taps on the dna board to the main + and -. the rx board just has the two balance wire solder points, so no need for bridging. i'll post the pictures if i find em.

sounds to me like your screen ribbon cable is getting pinched between the fire button. you'll need to take it apart to confirm. you'll need a new screen and re position the ribbon cable into an S bend to prevent this from happening again. here's a thread that discusses that problem, read through it. /topic/67576-topic/ vapingbad beat me to the punch!

i don't think it will. it's just for reverse batt protecion. i doubt it will generate any heat. however i am unsure if heat (for the RBP FET) is an issue when charging the batts through the usb.

i think you only need resistors when dealing with lighted buttons, which yours is not, correct? you're saying after you solder the external fire switch the dna 'auto fires'? and on every board you try this button on? are you sure, absolutely sure, you're not accidentally bridging the solder points creating a short? re-check your solder joints make sure they are neat and clean. does the board stop auto firing when you remove (desolder) your mitech switch? it would be great if you could post some pictures of the board, close up. especially where you soldered to the board, your switch, wiring, type of enclosure etc.

yes thats the correct diagram. i thought you wanted to use smd leds. sorry TBH, i'm not 100% sure on the 100 ohm resistor. i think the LED voltage determines the resistor value.

if it was a blown fuse, you would not be able to vape at all. all your settings are set correctly in escribe, under (mod tab)? you can try the usual stuff: hard reboot, reflash the firmware. i would try to return the device or open a help ticket with evolv , from their website.

you don't need a resistor for smd leds. that set up is for adding a push button with built in LED's here's a link if you want to add LED's. /topic/67162-topic/?do=findComment&comment=904565

i can relate to the 'not blowing huge clouds', just good flavor. i find my crown, which i dont use much anymore, difficult to dial in especially with that 'clicky' aiflow. i can't find a comfortable restrictive lung hit on it. i usually set it between halfway and quarter open (between clicks). i find my goblin and goblin mini are great for flavor and i can dial in the AFC just where i want it.

does look like a blown fuse. only way to be sure is to check the fuse's continuity or lack of with a DM (digital multimeter). or send it back, if it's still under warranty. double check your main positive and negative connections. make they are both fully snapped in and making good connection. same goes for the balance tap connector. was the mod working/vaping before you replaced the battery?